Advice: 1990 rx7
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Advice: 1990 rx7
Hey guys, I need some honest advice. I'm in the market for a new car for when I go back to school since my Integra won't cut it. I stumbled upon a nice 1990 NA rx7 for sale. My main question is, truely, how reliable is this car going to be. I realize that there's no way for you to tell me how this exact car is going to be, but generally speaking, how reliable are rx7s of this age? It's going to be driving distances of 30 miles often, at least 4 times a week if not more. I plan to possibly put 10,000 miles on it just in a school year. The weather up here in PA is quite chilly, can it handle the sometimes harsh winters. I know the rx7 is a great, fun car but I need it to not break down. I'm not hard on my cars, although I do drive 'spiritedly' when on, say, a winding country road.
Here's the specs:
Here's the direct link (w/pics):
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/2466211269.html
Also when texting him for info he told me that it has a pinhole sized hole in the radiator, doesn't leak (puddle on the ground) or cause over heating but rather just have to put more coolant in. The car has never been over heated. Is this hole a problem? The interior is allegedly mint, though I have yet to see it with my own eyes.
I'm going out to look at it tomorrow, anything I should check specifically? I read the "how to buy an '86-'92 Non Turbo rx-7" page so i feel a general idea.
Any input at all is extremely appreciated, thanks in advance.
Here's the specs:
The car's been garage kept every winter and has no rust anywhere. a slight bubbling on the base of the passenger front fender but nothing major at all. Body is very clean except for a few imperfections (small dings and a scratch in the clear coat) again nothing major. It was just inspected with emissions in May and passed with flying colors. I just had the tires rotated, oil changed with premium 5w30, and catalytic converter fixed (it had collapsed). I replaced the front brakes early fall last year and didn't drive it through the winter. Fixed a small coolant leak by replacing the thermostat housing. The car has a little over 250K miles on the body, all highway from traveling across country many times. The engine and the tranny have about 90K. Never been wrecked and always maintained properly, I have every service record on the car including the original window sticker from Mazda. All lights, signals, and warning lights work perfectly.
The engine runs very strong and the tranny shifts fine, clutch is good. Takes turns like a dream. Could use a tune up, tires (not immediately), and rear pads (30 bucks from advance).
specs are as follows:
13B rotary engine (non turbo but about 180 hp)
Dynomax exhuast
RWD
5 speed manual
Front and Rear Sway Bars
4 piston front brakes
2 seats
Apline CDA-9886 headunit
Boston Acoustic front speakers with separate tweeters
Alpine type-R 6.5" 2-way back speakers
The engine runs very strong and the tranny shifts fine, clutch is good. Takes turns like a dream. Could use a tune up, tires (not immediately), and rear pads (30 bucks from advance).
specs are as follows:
13B rotary engine (non turbo but about 180 hp)
Dynomax exhuast
RWD
5 speed manual
Front and Rear Sway Bars
4 piston front brakes
2 seats
Apline CDA-9886 headunit
Boston Acoustic front speakers with separate tweeters
Alpine type-R 6.5" 2-way back speakers
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/2466211269.html
Also when texting him for info he told me that it has a pinhole sized hole in the radiator, doesn't leak (puddle on the ground) or cause over heating but rather just have to put more coolant in. The car has never been over heated. Is this hole a problem? The interior is allegedly mint, though I have yet to see it with my own eyes.
I'm going out to look at it tomorrow, anything I should check specifically? I read the "how to buy an '86-'92 Non Turbo rx-7" page so i feel a general idea.
Any input at all is extremely appreciated, thanks in advance.
#2
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Hey guys, I need some honest advice. I'm in the market for a new car for when I go back to school since my Integra won't cut it. I stumbled upon a nice 1990 NA rx7 for sale. My main question is, truely, how reliable is this car going to be. I realize that there's no way for you to tell me how this exact car is going to be, but generally speaking, how reliable are rx7s of this age? It's going to be driving distances of 30 miles often, at least 4 times a week if not more. I plan to possibly put 10,000 miles on it just in a school year. The weather up here in PA is quite chilly, can it handle the sometimes harsh winters. I know the rx7 is a great, fun car but I need it to not break down. I'm not hard on my cars, although I do drive 'spiritedly' when on, say, a winding country road.
If you want a reliable daily driver then after purchase you'll need to set aside some time and money to go over the entire car and replace all the worn bits. Common examples are dirty/leaking injectors, rotted rubber hoses, all filters, suspension bushings and rubber parts, transmission, diff and engine mounts, etc. Really, the same stuff you'd find on any old car.
The car's been garage kept every winter and has no rust anywhere. a slight bubbling on the base of the passenger front fender but nothing major at all.
Frankly, I'd immediately knock $500 off the price considering I'd need to replace and repaint the front fender. And then I'd look VERY carefully at the rest of the car.
just had the tires rotated, oil changed with premium 5w30,
housing. The car has a little over 250K miles on the body, all highway from traveling across country many times.
Could use a tune up, tires (not immediately), and rear pads (30 bucks from advance).
And why would he just not replace the brake pads if they are "30 bucks from advance"?
13B rotary engine (non turbo but about 180 hp)
RWD
5 speed manual
Front and Rear Sway Bars
4 piston front brakes
2 seats
5 speed manual
Front and Rear Sway Bars
4 piston front brakes
2 seats
Also when texting him for info he told me that it has a pinhole sized hole in the radiator, doesn't leak (puddle on the ground) or cause over heating but rather just have to put more coolant in. The car has never been over heated. Is this hole a problem? The interior is allegedly mint, though I have yet to see it with my own eyes.
#3
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Well, it's a 20+ year old car so it's bound to have some issues. But if maintained, then they are quite reliable. No issues with cold weather as long as the car is in good tune.
If you want a reliable daily driver then after purchase you'll need to set aside some time and money to go over the entire car and replace all the worn bits. Common examples are dirty/leaking injectors, rotted rubber hoses, all filters, suspension bushings and rubber parts, transmission, diff and engine mounts, etc. Really, the same stuff you'd find on any old car.
So that'd be rust, then. With bubbling on the lower front fender, you'll probably find rust on the inner wheel well and inner fender area where it meets the rocker. Likely not visible until you pull the wheel well liner.
Frankly, I'd immediately knock $500 off the price considering I'd need to replace and repaint the front fender. And then I'd look VERY carefully at the rest of the car.
Too thin an oil for summer use when the temperature is in the 20s (C). 20W-50 or at the least 10W-30 is specified in the manual.
Any body with that mileage is going to need new shocks, springs, bushings and other assorted suspension bits. Plus all the rubber should be replaced.
Hmm...odd that he mentions it could use a tune up. Why?
And why would he just not replace the brake pads if they are "30 bucks from advance"?
No, about 165HP from the factory at the flywheel.
Yeah, these are all standard features of the car...
Uh, pinhole leak in the radiator, or a pinhole leak in a water o-ring causing coolant to be burned? When you look at it, be sure to have him point out the exact location of the pinhole.
If you want a reliable daily driver then after purchase you'll need to set aside some time and money to go over the entire car and replace all the worn bits. Common examples are dirty/leaking injectors, rotted rubber hoses, all filters, suspension bushings and rubber parts, transmission, diff and engine mounts, etc. Really, the same stuff you'd find on any old car.
So that'd be rust, then. With bubbling on the lower front fender, you'll probably find rust on the inner wheel well and inner fender area where it meets the rocker. Likely not visible until you pull the wheel well liner.
Frankly, I'd immediately knock $500 off the price considering I'd need to replace and repaint the front fender. And then I'd look VERY carefully at the rest of the car.
Too thin an oil for summer use when the temperature is in the 20s (C). 20W-50 or at the least 10W-30 is specified in the manual.
Any body with that mileage is going to need new shocks, springs, bushings and other assorted suspension bits. Plus all the rubber should be replaced.
Hmm...odd that he mentions it could use a tune up. Why?
And why would he just not replace the brake pads if they are "30 bucks from advance"?
No, about 165HP from the factory at the flywheel.
Yeah, these are all standard features of the car...
Uh, pinhole leak in the radiator, or a pinhole leak in a water o-ring causing coolant to be burned? When you look at it, be sure to have him point out the exact location of the pinhole.
Again thank you guys.
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Well I went to see the car and I'm impressed. He has the original owners manual, all of the paper work everything. The interior is mint, paints decent for a 21 year old. Only a couple of negatives like the fact that the exhaust is too loud. He said that when they replaced the cat they didnt tighten it enough and it came loose and the seal/gasket fell out now theres a gap.
Idk mechanically it seems good. I'm just worried about it being a Daily driver. Any input?
Idk mechanically it seems good. I'm just worried about it being a Daily driver. Any input?
#5
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I made another thread about the rx7 being a daily driver through the winter, but I found my answer in a thread from '08. (guess i should of searched better first). Next question is what is the easiest way to protect my undercarriage with all the salt in the winter.
#6
I've had 4 rx7s and anytime I've had someone ask if they should get one I respond by telling them to read up on how a rotary functions and the do and Don't of keeping it drivable,and always be prepared to rebuild it at any point especially if its a Turbo, NA are not as prone to fail. I wouldn't give more than 2500.00 check the black book value.
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