what model rx-7 or rotary is this one off of? and why the change compared to our normal gxl dynamic chamber

 

That's a custom built intake manifold on a very modified turbocharged engine. It's nowhere near the NA engine in a stock GXL.

 

Oh I see so where do i get a custom made one at

 

Depending on your power goals. What parts you want to use. How much money you have. The best idea would be just to modify the Turbo II intake manifold and use it on a 6-port engine.

Manifold design would be dictated by how you want you power band to be. Either way a custom intake manifold will be rather costly thing to do and in most cases not really worth it, unless of course your making lots of power, have the skills to do it yourself. The bang for the buck isn't there when you have to get someone to design and fabricate it for you.

 

If we're talking about an NA car, there's no reason short of extreme porting that you should be thinking of custom intake manifolds. The stock manifold has runners with length to optimize low end torque and high-end power. The only step up for the average NA engine is the S5 NA intake manifold: http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html.

 

...i make them....

 

The chamber on my intake is not a dynamic chamber in the Mazda sense, it is a standard plenum. My engine is also a 500HP bridgeported turbocharged S4 NA engine, so not really anything close to stock.

The change was made because my porting completely blows away the tuning that Mazda made with the stock manifold with respect to the dynamic chamber and the aux ports. I went to my own manifold design which runner lengths and plenum volume calculated for the airflow and powerband I wanted for my engine. I also relocated the throttle body for better intercooler piping placement, simplified the vacuum system, swapped to a single blade throttle body and raised my secondary injector position for best fuel atomization.

It works extraordinarily well for my application.

You don't need one. Properly building a custom intake is fairly involved and unless you have a radically modified engine, the time it takes to figure out an ideal intake manifold (the book equations will only get you so far) generally isn't worth it.

 

I really appreciate all the feedback and Aaron dammit you have one of the baddest fc's I have ever seen i want to keep my rx as stock as possible being that it's In amazing shape but I do need more speed out it without doing to much to where I might sacrifice to much life out the engine or trans or diff how can I upgrade it using a turbo intake or series 5 when I rebuild the engine I do plan on porting but not sure which ones I need done and for what reasons honestly I'm happy if I get 300 hp out my car btw I put a video of my fc on YouTube thanks everyone for your help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Diu4...e_gdata_player

 

That's a good looking car, and 2+2 is pretty rare as well.

I hate to say it, but you'll never get 300HP (or even much more than 200HP) in "streetable" form in NA. If you want 300HP, your only reasonable choice is to turbocharge. The only reason why you would want to do the TII intake is to either turbocharge the car or because it has been majorly ported (ie. bridge).

With all the experience I have in 6 port turbos, I feel that while the 6 port TII approach (using TII intake manifolds) is the easiest, it is also probably the worst way to do it unless you are just looking for all out power (above 400). In my opinion, a true turbo NA using the 6 port block with functional aux ports is the way to go, but that makes the build far more complicated as everything must be fabricated from scratch.

For now, put a nice catback on the car to enjoy a bit better sound, get a good suspension under it and then enjoy the car as is.

Oh, just a random question, what camera did you use to film that video?

 

Wow, that is pretty clean. I'd do what Aaron Cake says, get the suspension, brakes, cat back, and tune up sorted out and enjoy it until your really actually willing to turbo charge it or whatever power level you want to get to.

 

i have a sony dcr-sx40 handycam , and just as you guy's have suggested my mechanic at maztech which does the majority of my work recommended the same lol i do plan on street porting at least when the engine gets rebuild again it got rebuilt in 2003 by pineapple racing noticed the stamp on my engine when detailing it , and called them and sure enough it was one of there's, but at best if i street port my engine and do my racing beat exhaust which im installing next month where should i be at as far as horsepower estimate?

 

I was just curious about the camera because I'm looking for a good SD digital camcorder. After trying several models of inexpensive SD cameras and quite expensive HD cameras, I have come to the conclusion that they all suck at SD. So I was surprised to see the quality of your video.

Figure on a street port adding between 10 and 20HP. The problem is, when you start going aggressive on the 6 port engines, you drastically reduce low end torque. This is fine if you want an engine that makes all it's power above 7000 RPM, but sucks for street use. Sure, torque overall increases, but that low and midrange suffers. Any street ports should be mild ports. Make the primary ports taller and shorter, open the secondary and aux ports about 2MM sooner, then bring the exhaust 2MM up and 2MM down.

 

thanks so much for all the help and also on the camera if it wouldn't of been so cloudy outside and if there was actual sunlight the picture would of been alot better i plan on getting the light that mounts to it so the picture comes out better at night because without it the picture sucks at night but i guess thats with all cameras

hey i have a question ive been having a problem with my rx and i was told that all of them do this noise at about or right under 2000 rpm and the funny thing is i never noticed the noise before being that, i have had the car for about 11 months now no radio for most of that so i hear every noise squeak you name it.

so right after getting my transmission fluid changed and a new or refurbished water pump i starting hearing like a grinding feel at about those rpm's not above or under this , it can be in idle ,or when i manually rev the engine to this specific rpm in gear or out of gear , what could cause this , i never heard it before and trust me i have above average hearing so i know for fact i had never heard this , so wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

 

What kind of transmission fluid was used?

 

redline oil

 

Specifically which Redline Tranny fluid?

 

75/90 is what is on the receipt

 

Guys Down here in Miami get close to 300HP NA on a Half Bridge setup with Microtech EFI and they put another 200hp on the bottle to go up to 500WHP so that is another alternative if you want the NA sound and the TURBO power.

 

Banzai Racing achieved 199rwhp out of a non-ported S5 N/A on a Mustang Dyno. This was on the break in tune for an ITS race car, with just a full exhaust, MSD 6A and a set of 550 injectors. After break in this should increase to 210-215.

Stock intake manifold as well.

Here's the Dyno sheet:

 

Like I said, "streetable" is the key word. I don't consider an NA bridgeported engine streetable because in order to let it breath to get 300HP, it will be silly loud to the point where you will be stopped by the police every 10 seconds and you'll need to wear earplugs.

Making 500HP on nitrous is not NA. Nitrous is forced induction in my opinion (you are forcefully introducing an oxidizer into the chambers). It is also fake power. When that bottle is empty, there goes the power.

 

What I said is "streetable" Half-Bridge ported and ported exhaust not a full bridge. The way to do is Bridging the six-port cap on the open side as well as the plate, so the Bridge opens when the Six-port opens up. Pretty Smart hey! and yes, fully streetable close to 300HP and have tesimony to prove it.
About the noise, you need a Racing Beat Full Turbo Exhaust and you will fall in love with your Rx-7 every time you wind it up to 10,000rpm just like eating candy.

For the non-believers look below for ALL MOTOR Starlet Rotary (with Rx-8 rotors) doing 9.34@136mph for Juanchy Illianas and an Extra shot of nitrous gives the Rx-3 an 8.42@150mph for Tajmahal Racing.


http://http://www.yellowbullet.com/f....php?p=5331349

These are regular Joe guys that just like to race with sponsorship of their own pocket so please keep the hope for your Rx-7's You just need the right combination and the right mechanics(and Maybe a trip to Puerto Rico :o)

 

Trust me, I know what a bridgeport is.

No, this doesn't work very well. The timing of the aux bridgeport is too late, flow through the runner and sleeve is too low, and there is still massive overlap with the sleeve in the close position due to the huge cavity in the iron.

"Streetable" has different definitions. I, for example, consider 90% of the exhausts on NA RX-7s to be "unstreetable" due to noise levels.

Maybe you should look at my RX-7 before you suggest what I should do for an exhaust? I'm referring to my daily driven 500 RWHP bridgeported high compression turbo RX-7 that purrs like a kitten and is only slightly louder than stock.

Please point out which of those cars are daily driven street cars that don't violate every noise ordinance...

 

Sweet. You must be running low boost on it. I also have a Half Bridge 600RWHP convertible 91 Rx-7 like that smooth too. Guys down here told me they get over 700WHP without having to Bridgeport but I still did it because I love the racing sound of it.

 

I use bridgeports because they keep turbo lag under control. In my opinion, above the 400HP level lag starts to become an issue and the way to solve it (other then running too-high boost on too small a turbo) is to bridgeport. High HP stock/street port cars tend to have a 2000 RPM powerband.

 

Anyway the Bridgeporting of the Auxiliary ports works and gives an extra 15-20HP when conbined with the porting of the sleve using Pineapple racing sleves modification. This is for a na Rx-7 and not a Turbo.