98 RZ Horn / Steering Wheel / Clockspring? Help
#51
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
I found a airbag momo online at the right price and my brother lives over there and can get it for me ad bring it home when he visits. Its a MX5 wheel, and is identical to the buyee one from what I can see. Just doesn't have the FD tax on it, if your mx5 wheel fits this one should too right? If you think so too ill get this one to keep for posterity
https://www.mx5-winkel.nl/a-78308165...a/#description
I don't suppose you might know what my boost issue might be? I haven't driven this car much yet but it was disapointingly slow, so I put a boost gauge in and its only showing 3-4psi decreasing, feels like its NA. BUT it makes full 10psi in 4th at about 3500rpm, so I assume its not a leak? I don't want to hold 4th until redline on a public road to check transition & that it holds all the way, it starts to get very illegal quickly. I have searched this website but no one seems to have this particular issue, which is unlikely. A lot of turbo problem threads reference http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm which is very disappointingly closed (edit, found it saved on Turbo / Boost Problem Troubleshooting hooray). It doesn't matter too much as I had it booked in at the specialists for suspension work so rather than get into testing everything myself I have asked them to take a look so i wont start a thread on it. Just interesting I cant find anyone on here previously with this exact problem. Im reading the manual now.
https://www.mx5-winkel.nl/a-78308165...a/#description
I don't suppose you might know what my boost issue might be? I haven't driven this car much yet but it was disapointingly slow, so I put a boost gauge in and its only showing 3-4psi decreasing, feels like its NA. BUT it makes full 10psi in 4th at about 3500rpm, so I assume its not a leak? I don't want to hold 4th until redline on a public road to check transition & that it holds all the way, it starts to get very illegal quickly. I have searched this website but no one seems to have this particular issue, which is unlikely. A lot of turbo problem threads reference http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm which is very disappointingly closed (edit, found it saved on Turbo / Boost Problem Troubleshooting hooray). It doesn't matter too much as I had it booked in at the specialists for suspension work so rather than get into testing everything myself I have asked them to take a look so i wont start a thread on it. Just interesting I cant find anyone on here previously with this exact problem. Im reading the manual now.
I'll be packing in the proper diagrams in my usual super-enhanced form (in color, crazy high rez, indexed, searchable, all the good stuff) with the FD Wiring Bible as a bonus. Finished those 6ish months ago.
#52
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply esp. the info about the vacuum being completely different, I have been looking at the North American diagram. It is a very recent import ex Tokyo, I don't think its been to a workshop since leaving Japan but that doesn't mean someone didnt make a mistake in Tokyo. Ill update what my workshop finds.
That work you are doing on the wiring and manuals is incredible and will help so many people. I sent you a message on fb about it.
That work you are doing on the wiring and manuals is incredible and will help so many people. I sent you a message on fb about it.
#53
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
Not quite clear what the issue is. At idle boost should show negative (i.e. vacuum).
You need to better explain what you are doing when the boost is a 3~4.
Are you stock ecu?
Is yes, you can run codes to see what the ecu thinks is wrong.
Other than that you can have a "smoke test" done. That might show any leaks.
Is you air filter dirty?
Have you had a compression test done. If not, why not?
Have the Turbos been "parralleled". If yes, it may take longer to build boost as both turbos will be sucking air from the beginning..
You need to better explain what you are doing when the boost is a 3~4.
Are you stock ecu?
Is yes, you can run codes to see what the ecu thinks is wrong.
Other than that you can have a "smoke test" done. That might show any leaks.
Is you air filter dirty?
Have you had a compression test done. If not, why not?
Have the Turbos been "parralleled". If yes, it may take longer to build boost as both turbos will be sucking air from the beginning..
#54
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
From Version 4 on the "rats nest" was replaced with the "solenoid box". You need to find the diagram specific to your car.
Also be very mindful that the position of the coils was switched around. Someone using the USDM FSM to hook up the coils could get it wrong.
(A blown engine could results - ask me how I know!)
Also be very mindful that the position of the coils was switched around. Someone using the USDM FSM to hook up the coils could get it wrong.
(A blown engine could results - ask me how I know!)
#55
Junior Member
Thread Starter
At idle boost should show negative (i.e. vacuum). Yes. Confirm.
You need to better explain what you are doing when the boost is a 3~4. Full Throttle From Standing. 1st, 2nd and 3rd all full throttle only getting 3-4 PSI with PSI dropping in each gear as the revs go higher its very slow. I think my diesel hilux would win. No issue in fourth. Full 10psi. Pulls hard.
Are you stock ecu? Yes.
Is yes, you can run codes to see what the ecu thinks is wrong. I haven't tried that and haven't yet learned how to do it. I will get on that.
Other than that you can have a "smoke test" done. That might show any leaks.
Is you air filter dirty? No brand new.
Have you had a compression test done. If not, why not? Yes. Front 109, 109, 107 Rear 112, 110 ,111.
Have the Turbos been "parralleled". If yes, it may take longer to build boost as both turbos will be sucking air from the beginning. That i don't know. But its not building boost from the beginning, the opposite is true boost is falling except in 4th.
You need to better explain what you are doing when the boost is a 3~4. Full Throttle From Standing. 1st, 2nd and 3rd all full throttle only getting 3-4 PSI with PSI dropping in each gear as the revs go higher its very slow. I think my diesel hilux would win. No issue in fourth. Full 10psi. Pulls hard.
Are you stock ecu? Yes.
Is yes, you can run codes to see what the ecu thinks is wrong. I haven't tried that and haven't yet learned how to do it. I will get on that.
Other than that you can have a "smoke test" done. That might show any leaks.
Is you air filter dirty? No brand new.
Have you had a compression test done. If not, why not? Yes. Front 109, 109, 107 Rear 112, 110 ,111.
Have the Turbos been "parralleled". If yes, it may take longer to build boost as both turbos will be sucking air from the beginning. That i don't know. But its not building boost from the beginning, the opposite is true boost is falling except in 4th.
Last edited by broly; 01-23-24 at 11:23 PM.
#56
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
all you need to know.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...002-a-1127911/
Note: The password is embedded in the file name.
Make sure you have enough memory.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...002-a-1127911/
Note: The password is embedded in the file name.
Make sure you have enough memory.
#57
Junior Member
Thread Starter
From Version 4 on the "rats nest" was replaced with the "solenoid box". You need to find the diagram specific to your car.
Also be very mindful that the position of the coils was switched around. Someone using the USDM FSM to hook up the coils could get it wrong.
(A blown engine could results - ask me how I know!)
Also be very mindful that the position of the coils was switched around. Someone using the USDM FSM to hook up the coils could get it wrong.
(A blown engine could results - ask me how I know!)
i got the right vacuum diagram now, and the coils one too.
#59
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
Boost falls off on my car at 3~4 psi everytime I shift. It never holds up. Should fall back every time you lift off the gas.
My turbos are parralleled. Also my wastegate is set to open at 6.5 psi.
Why? Because that is all the boost I need.
The wastegate is normally regulate by two vacuum lines. If one is leaking, or both, or the solenoids regulating them are not functioning, the waste gate may be opening early.
Otherwise, you can disconnect tone or both of the the blow off hoses at the locations near your air box and hear when the boost is blowing off. (Mind the big plastic nipples on the air box like to break).
if you hear the boost blowing off at the 3~4 level one of your two blow off valve may be opening too soon.
Some guys like to drive around with the blow off blowing off like that. Don't be that guy(s).
My turbos are parralleled. Also my wastegate is set to open at 6.5 psi.
Why? Because that is all the boost I need.
The wastegate is normally regulate by two vacuum lines. If one is leaking, or both, or the solenoids regulating them are not functioning, the waste gate may be opening early.
Otherwise, you can disconnect tone or both of the the blow off hoses at the locations near your air box and hear when the boost is blowing off. (Mind the big plastic nipples on the air box like to break).
if you hear the boost blowing off at the 3~4 level one of your two blow off valve may be opening too soon.
Some guys like to drive around with the blow off blowing off like that. Don't be that guy(s).
Last edited by Redbul; 01-23-24 at 11:38 PM.
#60
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iTrader: (26)
Much of the USDM is useful. So hang onto it.
The Big File does not have the parts catgalogue for Version 4 (it has Version 5)
Get the version four parts catalogue (find on Buyee). Get the "final".
The diagrams in the catalogues are extremely useful. Especially for following the vacuum hose arrangements.
The Big File does not have the parts catgalogue for Version 4 (it has Version 5)
Get the version four parts catalogue (find on Buyee). Get the "final".
The diagrams in the catalogues are extremely useful. Especially for following the vacuum hose arrangements.
#62
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Much of the USDM is useful. So hang onto it.
The Big File does not have the parts catgalogue for Version 4 (it has Version 5)
Get the version four parts catalogue (find on Buyee). Get the "final".
The diagrams in the catalogues are extremely useful. Especially for following the vacuum hose arrangements.
The Big File does not have the parts catgalogue for Version 4 (it has Version 5)
Get the version four parts catalogue (find on Buyee). Get the "final".
The diagrams in the catalogues are extremely useful. Especially for following the vacuum hose arrangements.
printed pages and saved. thankyou.
#63
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
You need a jumper wire and a Led light (with resister) to run codes of the diagnostic box (ahead of the left shock tower in the engine bay).
It is easy to learn and do.
But you have to find the explanation somewhere (I don't have it).
Hook the wires up right and the LED will blink.
Note down the blink sequences and check in the FSM
Most of the codes in the USDM actually match the JDM codes.
It literally took five minutes on a friends Spirit R to identify that one of the solenoids in his solenoid box was coding.
(He had spent six months running around to local shops.)
New solenoids boxes run about C$600.
Don't bother trying to replace a single solenoind (there are seven).
It is easy to learn and do.
But you have to find the explanation somewhere (I don't have it).
Hook the wires up right and the LED will blink.
Note down the blink sequences and check in the FSM
Most of the codes in the USDM actually match the JDM codes.
It literally took five minutes on a friends Spirit R to identify that one of the solenoids in his solenoid box was coding.
(He had spent six months running around to local shops.)
New solenoids boxes run about C$600.
Don't bother trying to replace a single solenoind (there are seven).
Last edited by Redbul; 01-24-24 at 12:04 AM.
#68
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#70
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iTrader: (26)
The codes will not tell you where a vacuum leak might be. You need to do a smoke test.
Mind you that the nipples on the solenoids (any of them) break easy.
So be careful or be ready if you have to replace.
The double solenoid (green0 on the front to the UIM, has four nipples.
They will break. Better to have a spare ready before you touch it.
(maybe A$300)
Check that the vacuum hoses on the triangle shaped vacuum chamber in front of the UIM are in good nick.
Likewise, any vacuum hoses you can see without removing the UIM.
(as a first stage.)
Mind you that the nipples on the solenoids (any of them) break easy.
So be careful or be ready if you have to replace.
The double solenoid (green0 on the front to the UIM, has four nipples.
They will break. Better to have a spare ready before you touch it.
(maybe A$300)
Check that the vacuum hoses on the triangle shaped vacuum chamber in front of the UIM are in good nick.
Likewise, any vacuum hoses you can see without removing the UIM.
(as a first stage.)
Last edited by Redbul; 01-24-24 at 12:37 AM.
#73
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yp
like this you mean? Haha. Workshop tells me 5 out of the 7 tested bad. They are all getting replaced along with the lines which are brittle and check valves too.
how did you find that listing. There is no part number or English. Do you know Japanese?
how did you find that listing. There is no part number or English. Do you know Japanese?
Last edited by broly; 01-27-24 at 03:44 AM.