94 rx7 n00b :D help me out
04-13-09, 12:36 PM
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94 rx7 n00b :D help me out
i am a rotary n00b.. i just think its funy because i am trading my 350z for a rx7.. and even though i am in no way new to forums.. everybody knows you get tired of hearing the same questions day after day after day lol.. i am a my350z user so i know how it is lol but anyways just wanted to appologize in advance
anyways so trading my Z for a 94 rx7..
i'll post the specs from the ad in a minute.. i met him and drove the car already and it rides very good.. but he was honest enough to tell me about the bad water seal that it needs due to seeing bubbles in the coolant and losing coolant.. anyways.. other than that and a 5th gear grind the car is spotless
its a single turbo conversion 350whp
some questions for the rotary speacialists.....
trannys are expensive? easy to put in or is it just like any other RWD car.. i am in no way new to cars i do most of my work myself..
its a touring model.. whats the differences between the models and everything.. what does the touring model have
water seal? kinda wanted to have it done by a professional.. any way it can be done the right way by a first timer? (like i said i am no stranger to cars , just rotarys)
anyways.. tires , brakes, interior, exterior, everything else looks sound
made an intro thread but it hasn't been approved yet... also why can't i click on new threads?
so before i go ahead with the trade please let me know about anything else i should look for thanks
1994 Mazda RX7 Touring Edition
Asking Price: $10,000 (may consider trades) an IS300 would be nice.
Title Status: Clean and in hand!
Interior: 8/10 black/tan leather
Paint/Body: 9/10 Montego Blue
Wheels/Tires: Factory alloy wheels with 90% tread life on tires
Extras: * New street ported/3mm seals 13BTT engine with cryo treated internals * Single turbo conversion(T04S 60-1 .70A/R) * Custom turbo manifold and 3in. exhaust all the way out to a 3in. Apex'i catback(all cats removed) * Battery relocated * Banzai differential brace * Custom intercooler and piping * Greddy underdrive pulleys, intake elbow and type-s blow off valve * Apex'i Power FC * 1600cc secondary fuel injectors with high flow fuel rail * High volume fuel pump (Bosch 044) * ACT HD pressure plate * Greddy Profec B boost controller * Greddy turbo timer * Autometer boost gauge * PLX Wideband O2 gauge * Steel braided clutch line * Drilled/slotted brake rotors * Short throw shifter * Rising rate fuel pressure regulator * HKS Twin Power Ignition * Just installed brand new Tokico 5-way adjustable shocks
Good things: Over $30k invested and you can get it at a fraction of the cost! The engine was built at Rotor Sports Racing in Kenapolis about 15k miles ago and the oil has been changed every 2k miles. Dyno tuned at Intense MotorSports in Charlotte by Zac(Rotary specialist). She puts down 356RWHP &302ft/tq on Intenses dyno which produces the lowest numbers I've seen in NC(I have dyno sheet on hand). On a dynojet it would be putting down 400+RWHP. Car runs strong and is very fun to drive. It definately turns heads. I WILL BE LETTING GO SEVERAL SPARE PARTS FOR THIS CAR AS WELL!(switches,tranny,cruise control, A/C plumbing,etc)
Bad Things: Driver's seat has two medium rips. Tach. occasionally gets jumpy(no big deal). Some times 5th gear grinds(it isn't bad but you will be getting a spare tranny anyway!)
NEW DEVELOPMENTS: I just diagnosed a blown water seal! The car still runs nicely after its warmed up. This is why I have lowered the price so far. I need the money and can't afford to fix this. Relatively it won't cost a lot to fix but I am short on cash, don't have time for it and I've already spent a lot of money on this thing in aftermarket parts
Asking Price: $10,000 (may consider trades) an IS300 would be nice.
Title Status: Clean and in hand!
Interior: 8/10 black/tan leather
Paint/Body: 9/10 Montego Blue
Wheels/Tires: Factory alloy wheels with 90% tread life on tires
Extras: * New street ported/3mm seals 13BTT engine with cryo treated internals * Single turbo conversion(T04S 60-1 .70A/R) * Custom turbo manifold and 3in. exhaust all the way out to a 3in. Apex'i catback(all cats removed) * Battery relocated * Banzai differential brace * Custom intercooler and piping * Greddy underdrive pulleys, intake elbow and type-s blow off valve * Apex'i Power FC * 1600cc secondary fuel injectors with high flow fuel rail * High volume fuel pump (Bosch 044) * ACT HD pressure plate * Greddy Profec B boost controller * Greddy turbo timer * Autometer boost gauge * PLX Wideband O2 gauge * Steel braided clutch line * Drilled/slotted brake rotors * Short throw shifter * Rising rate fuel pressure regulator * HKS Twin Power Ignition * Just installed brand new Tokico 5-way adjustable shocks
Good things: Over $30k invested and you can get it at a fraction of the cost! The engine was built at Rotor Sports Racing in Kenapolis about 15k miles ago and the oil has been changed every 2k miles. Dyno tuned at Intense MotorSports in Charlotte by Zac(Rotary specialist). She puts down 356RWHP &302ft/tq on Intenses dyno which produces the lowest numbers I've seen in NC(I have dyno sheet on hand). On a dynojet it would be putting down 400+RWHP. Car runs strong and is very fun to drive. It definately turns heads. I WILL BE LETTING GO SEVERAL SPARE PARTS FOR THIS CAR AS WELL!(switches,tranny,cruise control, A/C plumbing,etc)
Bad Things: Driver's seat has two medium rips. Tach. occasionally gets jumpy(no big deal). Some times 5th gear grinds(it isn't bad but you will be getting a spare tranny anyway!)
NEW DEVELOPMENTS: I just diagnosed a blown water seal! The car still runs nicely after its warmed up. This is why I have lowered the price so far. I need the money and can't afford to fix this. Relatively it won't cost a lot to fix but I am short on cash, don't have time for it and I've already spent a lot of money on this thing in aftermarket parts
04-13-09, 05:43 PM
#2
Replacing the tranny is probably no big deal, maybe $300-400 to get a used one plus shipping. Price is a guesstimate based on TII trans.
The coolant seal can mean a couple things, one, just a rebuild, a rebuild with a new housing and potentially more.
Since you are familiar with working on cars you can probably do it yourself with purchasing a DIY video from either mazdatrix, atkins, or rotary aviation or spend the big bones on the 13B DIY vid.
The coolant seal can mean a couple things, one, just a rebuild, a rebuild with a new housing and potentially more.
Since you are familiar with working on cars you can probably do it yourself with purchasing a DIY video from either mazdatrix, atkins, or rotary aviation or spend the big bones on the 13B DIY vid.
04-13-09, 10:42 PM
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he said it never overheated so.... i wanna do the champane test and a compression test... does it matter how much bubbles come out
and how do you do a compression test on these motors
and how do you do a compression test on these motors
04-14-09, 01:08 AM
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http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/blown.htm this one should help you out with the compression test. as for the champane thing idk...
04-14-09, 09:06 AM
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http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/blown.htm this one should help you out with the compression test. as for the champane thing idk...
great website by aaroncake.. awesome information i am definately saving it.. thanks a lot
04-14-09, 12:22 PM
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and also this could help you too http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...ion_check.html
04-16-09, 08:20 PM
#7
The 5th gear grind does not normally require a whole new transmission. It's usually because of a broken 5th synchro, and for a hundred bucks in parts it's DIY'able.
Good used FD transmissions run from $400 to $700. Standard RWD transmission installation, except that it's a pull clutch to take care to figure out how to detach the clutch. Run Redline MT-90 gear oil in the trans.
Dave
Good used FD transmissions run from $400 to $700. Standard RWD transmission installation, except that it's a pull clutch to take care to figure out how to detach the clutch. Run Redline MT-90 gear oil in the trans.
Dave
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04-16-09, 09:08 PM
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Does it build pressure in the cooling system fast? Or does it just use coolant and you have to add everynow and again? But all of the 13BTT have a problem w/ the cooling seals and at our shop my Dad and I put factory rebuilds in and don't really bother with the DIY. The DIY gets really expensive, and no warranty, but the factory rebuilds all new parts with nice warranty.
04-16-09, 10:43 PM
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Does it build pressure in the cooling system fast? Or does it just use coolant and you have to add everynow and again? But all of the 13BTT have a problem w/ the cooling seals and at our shop my Dad and I put factory rebuilds in and don't really bother with the DIY. The DIY gets really expensive, and no warranty, but the factory rebuilds all new parts with nice warranty.
how long you think i can drive it like that?
04-17-09, 10:19 PM
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It all depends on how you use the car, if it's goin to be the daily driver, a street machine, the sunday cruiser, or just the toy you have when those damn Hondas bother you in traffic. I seen a guy have his engine rebuilt by Pettit w/ a big street port and the upgraded turbos and I think it lasted about 6 years. I think some of it has to do with boost, letting the cars sit and not be used, and the most important thing MAINTENANCE! I think it is the worst thing in the world to let a rotary sit. As far as a rebuild lasting, I wouldn't really know b/c I haven't had a chance to rebuild one myself. I would find out from someone who only does rebuilds.
06-23-09, 09:21 PM
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Will,
the turbo'd rotary can be reliable. you have most (but not all) of the correct mods on your car.
your tubo makes about 50 pounds per minute of air which should produce a max of approx 385 rear wheel rotary hp.
the probability is your engine was overheated at some point thus cooking the coolant seals. other possibilities are build errors such as incorrectly torqued thru bolts or a pinched seal on build. there are other brand coolant seals that some use. i would not use any coolant seals but the Mazda item. so, maybe you have brand X coolant seals but they generally work if properly installed.
the seal is exposed to pressure (combustion chamber pressure + coolant system pressure) and vacuum. so coolant can go into your combustion chamber under vacuum and pressure can exit the combustion chamber past the coolant seal and push coolant out of your engine/radiator/overflow tank.
in addition, the combustion pressure in short order can literally eat away the supportive rail on your iron sideplate rendering it worthless. that's why you should NOT drive w a leaking coolant seal unless you plan to deep six the motor.
when you shut your engine down the pressure in the coolant system seeps into the motor.
your motor has a ton of carbon in it. the water, combined w the carbon is potentially lethal as it is capable of dislodging pieces of carbon that can wedge into apex seal grooves and break a seal. perhaps as you got out of the gas you left it in gear and pulled high vacuum, in came the water and perhaps dislodged carbon.
properly installed Mazda coolant seals on a properly tuned engine do not fail.
most rotaries are tuned rich to cool the combustion chamber pressure arising from a great deal of hp being made from 2.6 liters.
gasoline is the wrong substance to use. to properly allow the rotary to do it's thing you need to use something else to cool the motor and tune it in the mid 11s AFR wise.
the two substances water and/or methanol remove the carbon. (see my thread in this section entitled "making the case for the rotary powered FD... the FIX")
mazda sought to promote engine longevity by adding an "External Oil Pump." the pump sprays oil on the apex seals... not a bad idea but the oil comes from the crankcase. take a look at your oil after a few hundred miles. it is black and filled w carbon. the EOP should be junked and you simply add 1/2 ounce of any 2 cycle oil to each gallon of gas. 1 ounce when you are on track/dyno. 2 cycle oil burns clean and doesn't have all the carbon found in your crankcase oil.
another item... you mention a new build and finding an indestructible apex seal. again, apex seals don't just break. if you break an apex seal something is WRONG in the tune or the systems or the engine build.
the answer is NOT finding a different apex seal. it is finding the CAUSE of your seal failure... which is probably your coolant leak... which was probably due to overheating.
there are other possibilities re your engine failure. recently i removed a motor for a friend so as to diagnose what caused the failure. a shop had installed a GT35R. i found no tie wrap on the MAP sensor fitting and a loose fitting on the fuel pressure regulator pressure vacuum line. the computer didn't know there was 15 psi of air going into the motor! and there wasn't the right pressure signal to the fuel pressure reg to fuel the motor. there are only a few items that must be absolutely locked down on the fd or you get motor failure... others will just cause a tuning problem. you do need to know about them or deal w someone who does.
the FD is capable of putting out alot of hp but it is a 2.6 liter motor and everything must be just right. either find the right person or start reading and take a long term approach.
the car is worth it.
good luck,
howard
the turbo'd rotary can be reliable. you have most (but not all) of the correct mods on your car.
your tubo makes about 50 pounds per minute of air which should produce a max of approx 385 rear wheel rotary hp.
the probability is your engine was overheated at some point thus cooking the coolant seals. other possibilities are build errors such as incorrectly torqued thru bolts or a pinched seal on build. there are other brand coolant seals that some use. i would not use any coolant seals but the Mazda item. so, maybe you have brand X coolant seals but they generally work if properly installed.
the seal is exposed to pressure (combustion chamber pressure + coolant system pressure) and vacuum. so coolant can go into your combustion chamber under vacuum and pressure can exit the combustion chamber past the coolant seal and push coolant out of your engine/radiator/overflow tank.
in addition, the combustion pressure in short order can literally eat away the supportive rail on your iron sideplate rendering it worthless. that's why you should NOT drive w a leaking coolant seal unless you plan to deep six the motor.
when you shut your engine down the pressure in the coolant system seeps into the motor.
your motor has a ton of carbon in it. the water, combined w the carbon is potentially lethal as it is capable of dislodging pieces of carbon that can wedge into apex seal grooves and break a seal. perhaps as you got out of the gas you left it in gear and pulled high vacuum, in came the water and perhaps dislodged carbon.
properly installed Mazda coolant seals on a properly tuned engine do not fail.
most rotaries are tuned rich to cool the combustion chamber pressure arising from a great deal of hp being made from 2.6 liters.
gasoline is the wrong substance to use. to properly allow the rotary to do it's thing you need to use something else to cool the motor and tune it in the mid 11s AFR wise.
the two substances water and/or methanol remove the carbon. (see my thread in this section entitled "making the case for the rotary powered FD... the FIX")
mazda sought to promote engine longevity by adding an "External Oil Pump." the pump sprays oil on the apex seals... not a bad idea but the oil comes from the crankcase. take a look at your oil after a few hundred miles. it is black and filled w carbon. the EOP should be junked and you simply add 1/2 ounce of any 2 cycle oil to each gallon of gas. 1 ounce when you are on track/dyno. 2 cycle oil burns clean and doesn't have all the carbon found in your crankcase oil.
another item... you mention a new build and finding an indestructible apex seal. again, apex seals don't just break. if you break an apex seal something is WRONG in the tune or the systems or the engine build.
the answer is NOT finding a different apex seal. it is finding the CAUSE of your seal failure... which is probably your coolant leak... which was probably due to overheating.
there are other possibilities re your engine failure. recently i removed a motor for a friend so as to diagnose what caused the failure. a shop had installed a GT35R. i found no tie wrap on the MAP sensor fitting and a loose fitting on the fuel pressure regulator pressure vacuum line. the computer didn't know there was 15 psi of air going into the motor! and there wasn't the right pressure signal to the fuel pressure reg to fuel the motor. there are only a few items that must be absolutely locked down on the fd or you get motor failure... others will just cause a tuning problem. you do need to know about them or deal w someone who does.
the FD is capable of putting out alot of hp but it is a 2.6 liter motor and everything must be just right. either find the right person or start reading and take a long term approach.
the car is worth it.
good luck,
howard
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 06-23-09 at 09:27 PM.
06-23-09, 09:49 PM
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Will,
the turbo'd rotary can be reliable. you have most (but not all) of the correct mods on your car.
your tubo makes about 50 pounds per minute of air which should produce a max of approx 385 rear wheel rotary hp.
the probability is your engine was overheated at some point thus cooking the coolant seals. other possibilities are build errors such as incorrectly torqued thru bolts or a pinched seal on build. there are other brand coolant seals that some use. i would not use any coolant seals but the Mazda item. so, maybe you have brand X coolant seals but they generally work if properly installed.
the seal is exposed to pressure (combustion chamber pressure + coolant system pressure) and vacuum. so coolant can go into your combustion chamber under vacuum and pressure can exit the combustion chamber past the coolant seal and push coolant out of your engine/radiator/overflow tank.
in addition, the combustion pressure in short order can literally eat away the supportive rail on your iron sideplate rendering it worthless. that's why you should NOT drive w a leaking coolant seal unless you plan to deep six the motor.
when you shut your engine down the pressure in the coolant system seeps into the motor.
your motor has a ton of carbon in it. the water, combined w the carbon is potentially lethal as it is capable of dislodging pieces of carbon that can wedge into apex seal grooves and break a seal. perhaps as you got out of the gas you left it in gear and pulled high vacuum, in came the water and perhaps dislodged carbon.
properly installed Mazda coolant seals on a properly tuned engine do not fail.
most rotaries are tuned rich to cool the combustion chamber pressure arising from a great deal of hp being made from 2.6 liters.
gasoline is the wrong substance to use. to properly allow the rotary to do it's thing you need to use something else to cool the motor and tune it in the mid 11s AFR wise.
the two substances water and/or methanol remove the carbon. (see my thread in this section entitled "making the case for the rotary powered FD... the FIX")
mazda sought to promote engine longevity by adding an "External Oil Pump." the pump sprays oil on the apex seals... not a bad idea but the oil comes from the crankcase. take a look at your oil after a few hundred miles. it is black and filled w carbon. the EOP should be junked and you simply add 1/2 ounce of any 2 cycle oil to each gallon of gas. 1 ounce when you are on track/dyno. 2 cycle oil burns clean and doesn't have all the carbon found in your crankcase oil.
another item... you mention a new build and finding an indestructible apex seal. again, apex seals don't just break. if you break an apex seal something is WRONG in the tune or the systems or the engine build.
the answer is NOT finding a different apex seal. it is finding the CAUSE of your seal failure... which is probably your coolant leak... which was probably due to overheating.
there are other possibilities re your engine failure. recently i removed a motor for a friend so as to diagnose what caused the failure. a shop had installed a GT35R. i found no tie wrap on the MAP sensor fitting and a loose fitting on the fuel pressure regulator pressure vacuum line. the computer didn't know there was 15 psi of air going into the motor! and there wasn't the right pressure signal to the fuel pressure reg to fuel the motor. there are only a few items that must be absolutely locked down on the fd or you get motor failure... others will just cause a tuning problem. you do need to know about them or deal w someone who does.
the FD is capable of putting out alot of hp but it is a 2.6 liter motor and everything must be just right. either find the right person or start reading and take a long term approach.
the car is worth it.
good luck,
howard
the turbo'd rotary can be reliable. you have most (but not all) of the correct mods on your car.
your tubo makes about 50 pounds per minute of air which should produce a max of approx 385 rear wheel rotary hp.
the probability is your engine was overheated at some point thus cooking the coolant seals. other possibilities are build errors such as incorrectly torqued thru bolts or a pinched seal on build. there are other brand coolant seals that some use. i would not use any coolant seals but the Mazda item. so, maybe you have brand X coolant seals but they generally work if properly installed.
the seal is exposed to pressure (combustion chamber pressure + coolant system pressure) and vacuum. so coolant can go into your combustion chamber under vacuum and pressure can exit the combustion chamber past the coolant seal and push coolant out of your engine/radiator/overflow tank.
in addition, the combustion pressure in short order can literally eat away the supportive rail on your iron sideplate rendering it worthless. that's why you should NOT drive w a leaking coolant seal unless you plan to deep six the motor.
when you shut your engine down the pressure in the coolant system seeps into the motor.
your motor has a ton of carbon in it. the water, combined w the carbon is potentially lethal as it is capable of dislodging pieces of carbon that can wedge into apex seal grooves and break a seal. perhaps as you got out of the gas you left it in gear and pulled high vacuum, in came the water and perhaps dislodged carbon.
properly installed Mazda coolant seals on a properly tuned engine do not fail.
most rotaries are tuned rich to cool the combustion chamber pressure arising from a great deal of hp being made from 2.6 liters.
gasoline is the wrong substance to use. to properly allow the rotary to do it's thing you need to use something else to cool the motor and tune it in the mid 11s AFR wise.
the two substances water and/or methanol remove the carbon. (see my thread in this section entitled "making the case for the rotary powered FD... the FIX")
mazda sought to promote engine longevity by adding an "External Oil Pump." the pump sprays oil on the apex seals... not a bad idea but the oil comes from the crankcase. take a look at your oil after a few hundred miles. it is black and filled w carbon. the EOP should be junked and you simply add 1/2 ounce of any 2 cycle oil to each gallon of gas. 1 ounce when you are on track/dyno. 2 cycle oil burns clean and doesn't have all the carbon found in your crankcase oil.
another item... you mention a new build and finding an indestructible apex seal. again, apex seals don't just break. if you break an apex seal something is WRONG in the tune or the systems or the engine build.
the answer is NOT finding a different apex seal. it is finding the CAUSE of your seal failure... which is probably your coolant leak... which was probably due to overheating.
there are other possibilities re your engine failure. recently i removed a motor for a friend so as to diagnose what caused the failure. a shop had installed a GT35R. i found no tie wrap on the MAP sensor fitting and a loose fitting on the fuel pressure regulator pressure vacuum line. the computer didn't know there was 15 psi of air going into the motor! and there wasn't the right pressure signal to the fuel pressure reg to fuel the motor. there are only a few items that must be absolutely locked down on the fd or you get motor failure... others will just cause a tuning problem. you do need to know about them or deal w someone who does.
the FD is capable of putting out alot of hp but it is a 2.6 liter motor and everything must be just right. either find the right person or start reading and take a long term approach.
the car is worth it.
good luck,
howard
Howard, thankyou for your indept and lengthy suggestions. I will be sure to have the proper Mazda OEM water seals used on my new rebuild. Even though i kept a close eye, and the car never overheated, i have no doubt that the coolant leak was a leading cause in my engine failure. Hopefully I will learn from my mistakes and have an even better running engine next time around
thank you
-Will
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