91 vert idle problem
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento, Ca.
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91 vert idle problem
Bone stock 91 vert only has racing beat cat back exhaust and runs great but will not idle below 1400 rpm. Battery went bad from setting and replaced and that is when idle went wonky. Used to idle extremely smooth at 900 rpm, now can't get it below 1400 even though car runs and drives very well. Tried adjusting tps sensor to no avail. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
#4
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
You can't adjust the thermowax, but the cam has an adjustment screw. I'd get a small mirror and find the cam on the back of the TB, then warm the car up and see if it disengages or not.
This is a picture of an upside-down S4 NA TB. Yours will be similar. Unfortunately since the NA models were an after-thought, Mazda didn't seem to consider how anyone would make adjustments of any of these screws. The thermowax piston retracts when warm, which allows the cam to disengage (move left. The primary plate shaft rotates the same direction until it hits the throttle stop screw. Idle should be ~1500 RPM cold, and ~750 RPM when fully warm. Adjusting the idle bypass screw can bring these values higher or lower.
This is a picture of an upside-down S4 NA TB. Yours will be similar. Unfortunately since the NA models were an after-thought, Mazda didn't seem to consider how anyone would make adjustments of any of these screws. The thermowax piston retracts when warm, which allows the cam to disengage (move left. The primary plate shaft rotates the same direction until it hits the throttle stop screw. Idle should be ~1500 RPM cold, and ~750 RPM when fully warm. Adjusting the idle bypass screw can bring these values higher or lower.
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#11
Stoned
iTrader: (3)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbYj...e_gdata_player
Cold start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E7n...e_gdata_player
Warm temp idle
Cold start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E7n...e_gdata_player
Warm temp idle
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The BAC solenoid is supposed to keep the idle from dropping below 750 rpm. Since yours apparently is below that level you need to do some research related to the BAC. Make sure the plug is making a firm connection. If so then unplug it and place a ground to one of the BAC terminals and a 12 volt source to the other terminal and it should click. Do this repeatedly to make it click. I would gather that the solenoid will click since your car goes to the 3000 rpm start level as the BAC needs to be functiong properly to do this but make it click anyway. Also, check the voltage at the ECU pin (pin3Q Blue/Green wire) related to the BAC and measure this voltage while it idles when the engine is warmed. Should read about 9 volts when idling, 2 to 3 volts when starting, and less than 9 volts while idling but the A/C on.
Last edited by satch; 10-04-12 at 01:10 PM.
#15
Stoned
iTrader: (3)
Looks like the item in post #8. Located on the passenger side of the engine.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...erence-671004/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...erence-671004/
after looking at the picture you provide, am i using a multimeter for the air intake temp sensor?
#16
Alternator maybe?
My 88 GTU started idling really rough, the alternator tested bad and upon replacing it it was alot better. This might have only been part of the issue though. Just throwing it out there
#25
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
In the first video where the engine is idling the rpm appeared to be about 300 or so. In the last idling video provided the rpm appeared to be closer to 500 or so. On the very top of the engine there should be a screw which helps to adjust the idle speed. So w/the car idling pull the plug off of the BAC and then adjust the screw on top of the engine so that the rpm idle climbs to a more normal level and then replug the BAC and tell us if the idle speed improved or not.
Pic of Idle Adjust Screw is in post#5 pic #1 in the link provided earlier.
Pic of Idle Adjust Screw is in post#5 pic #1 in the link provided earlier.
Last edited by satch; 10-04-12 at 05:54 PM.