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88 fc gtu

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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 02:19 AM
  #1  
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From: Valparaiso, Indiana
IN 88 fc gtu

WARNING: WALL OF TEXT.

I tried to format it nicely enough.

Just picked it up Thursday. I was looking to ask a few questions. Looking to make this a spring/summer/fall car and store for the winter. I want it mostly stock, maybe a few personal touches. I fell in love with these cars a while ago, just never had the opportunity to own one until now.


1. The owner before me (this car has had 10 owners) installed a "fuel cutoff" switch under the dash (by my right knee). When done driving, I have to flip this switch to shut the car off. Turning the key to off does nothing at all. The interior lights that are on, stay on (such as heater panel and others). I know this isn't how they came stock, but it is something I want to get fixed. I was just looking to thoughts why someone would do this, and what I would need to do to get the original ignition switch working again. (I know, it might be unknowable by the community because I can imagine that it's crazy under the dash). All badging has been removed, and the holes filled in. EDIT: Antenna is gone from the rear.

2. I was reading the standard options for the GTU, and I thought I read somewhere that they didn't come with a moonroof.
My car has one (that is stuck closed), but some of the options in the car reflect that it is a GTU;
  • No rear wiper
  • the steering wheel has been replaced
  • Power steering removed.
  • Rims are 5-lug GTU style (according to the thread about what models came with what wheels).
  • Car original color is white by looking in the engine compartment.
  • It has the Turbo II hood and Rear spoiler as well (added by another owner).
  • A/C removed
Is there a definitive way I can find out if the model is a GTU, or something else?

3. The car runs a bit rich, but alas, I don't know a whole bunch about the rotary engines, so I'm unsure if this is normal or not. It seems to have some small issues once in a while, but nothing serious has come up. According to the documentation, the Apex Seals have been done less than 25,XXX miles ago. It seems to run quite solid and it's a bit fast. I did an emissions test earlier Friday, and it failed..somewhat miserably. There is no catalytic convertor on it.

4. The transmission feels pretty good 1->2 and 3->4 and 4->5, but on 2->3 shift, it grinds a bit (I can feel it and hear it on the stick). With the clutch in fully, anything above 3k RPM, it will grind a smidge, and then get into gear. Addendum to this, when slowing down or stopping, sometimes, I hear something like a spinning noise from the gearbox, but if I put it in neutral, it will go away. The previous owner, had an aftermarket shift boot, that had a beanie (the ones you put on your head) underneath the shift boot. I can smell..grease? Transfluid? I'm not sure, but it can get quite strong. Thoughts on the trans?

5. No electronics work. Radio, door mirrors, dome lights, warning lights (except for washer bottle, brake, and door ajar light), clock, and half of the dash lights. It seems that..the ECU was removed or something. It feels like all motor and no electrics. all exterior lights work, as well as indicators. The Headlight motors still work well. Is it possible to remove the ECU, and keep the vehicle running? I feel that..it just isn't there.


6. It does drive. It's a hell of a lot faster than something I'm used to (Pontiac Grand Am) I let it warm up, and it will idle between 750 and 1000 depending on the temperature (It's been quite hot in the midwest, and the temp is good on the gauge if it works properly). Power steering really isn't needed, AC neither, but they have been removed. They were once in the car before the previous owner recieved it.

7. Will parts from an 86 RX-7 fit the 88? (Trim, plastics, electronics, motor accessories)

I got this car KNOWING it had issues. It's...a challenge for me. Something to learn about and to fix myself. I have some mechanical background and quite a bit of tech background. If I need to rebuild the motor, I will. The trans, I will. Even if it takes me 5 years to fix this thing to the way I want, I will do it. The main problem I have now...is where to get started. Any input is great, but please be gentle.

I want to make this a nice car, and I want to make it mine
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #2  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 88rotors
1. The owner before me (this car has had 10 owners) installed a "fuel cutoff" switch under the dash (by my right knee). When done driving, I have to flip this switch to shut the car off. Turning the key to off does nothing at all. The interior lights that are on, stay on (such as heater panel and others). I know this isn't how they came stock, but it is something I want to get fixed. I was just looking to thoughts why someone would do this, and what I would need to do to get the original ignition switch working again. (I know, it might be unknowable by the community because I can imagine that it's crazy under the dash). All badging has been removed, and the holes filled in. EDIT: Antenna is gone from the rear.
Flooding problems are common, and the fuel cut switch is a bandaid. It's just connected in line with the fuel pump wires.

Flooding is typically caused by worn out leaking injectors, poor maintenance, or low compression.

3. The car runs a bit rich, but alas, I don't know a whole bunch about the rotary engines, so I'm unsure if this is normal or not. ......There is no catalytic convertor on it.
No cat. There's your problem.

4. The transmission feels pretty good 1->2 and 3->4 and 4->5, but on 2->3 shift, it grinds a bit (I can feel it and hear it on the stick). With the clutch in fully, anything above 3k RPM, it will grind a smidge, and then get into gear. Addendum to this, when slowing down or stopping, sometimes, I hear something like a spinning noise from the gearbox, but if I put it in neutral, it will go away. The previous owner, had an aftermarket shift boot, that had a beanie (the ones you put on your head) underneath the shift boot. I can smell..grease? Transfluid? I'm not sure, but it can get quite strong. Thoughts on the trans?
Transmission is worn out, very common. A rebuild is generally under $1000 at a shop, or you can find a good used unit. Clutch hydraulics also sound like they aren't in very good shape. It's common for the shift boot rubber to be missing as hack job mechanics don't reinstall it. Combined with a small transmission oil leak, you'll get the smell.

5. No electronics work. Radio, door mirrors, dome lights, warning lights (except for washer bottle, brake, and door ajar light), clock, and half of the dash lights. It seems that..the ECU was removed or something. It feels like all motor and no electrics. all exterior lights work, as well as indicators. The Headlight motors still work well. Is it possible to remove the ECU, and keep the vehicle running? I feel that..it just isn't there.
There is no ECU that controls the body electronics. There is a CPU that controls the flashers and a few warning lights, but nothing else. You're just going to have to troubleshoot. Fuses? Broken key switch?

6. It does drive. It's a hell of a lot faster than something I'm used to (Pontiac Grand Am) I let it warm up, and it will idle between 750 and 1000 depending on the temperature (It's been quite hot in the midwest, and the temp is good on the gauge if it works properly). Power steering really isn't needed, AC neither, but they have been removed. They were once in the car before the previous owner recieved it.
Sounds like the typical hacked up car, owned by a string of kids. The idle may be messed up because the BAC valve is missing. Idle should be 750 RPM +-50RPM.

7. Will parts from an 86 RX-7 fit the 88? (Trim, plastics, electronics, motor accessories)
Yes.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:16 AM
  #3  
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From: tulsa,ok.
Cigar fuse, Audio fuse and Room fuse need to be checked.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #4  
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From: Valparaiso, Indiana
Awesome. I have a good direction to start in. I think the first thing I want to do is park this car, and work on the transmission. It does seem like it was a hack job.

This winter, I'm going to be stripping the interior and redoing all the wiring that needs to be done, and before then, I'm going to be working on the trans. Thanks so much guys! I have some pictures I can post if you all are intersted.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #5  
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From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Originally Posted by 88rotors
Antenna is gone from the rear
You have two power antenna options:
1) Replace it with an aftermarket antenna, which will work with an aftermarket stereo but will require a relay for an OEM stereo.
2) Replace it with an OEM antenna, which will work with the OEM stereo but will require a relay for an aftermarket stereo.

Originally Posted by 88rotors
I was reading the standard options for the GTU
... which has no relationship whatsoever to a 24 year old car that had 10 owners who fancied themselves as mechanics.

So what kind of FC do I have?
- Sun roof
- Manual steering rack
- Manual door locks, windows, and base model black mirrors
- Turbo II hood, transmission, and LSD
- Non-turbo sized flywheel
- Wheels from a convertible
- 89 front end, 88 tail lights
As you can see, the Mazda brochure is worthless if the car is modified.

Originally Posted by 88rotors
Is there a definitive way I can find out if the model is a GTU, or something else?
1) Open the driver's side door and you should see two white stickers in the door jam.
2) On the lower sticker there is an "FB" code in the top right hand corner. Write this down.
3) Go to this website and download the document that has the description of "1986-88 Fiche". See the table for "MODEL IDENTIFICATION" on page 10-11.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
4) Find your car's "FB" number in the left hand column of the table. Read across and note the TRIM LEVEL. This will not tell you what your car is, but it will at least tell you what it originally was.

Originally Posted by 88rotors
Will parts from an 86 RX-7 fit the 88? (Trim, plastics, electronics, motor accessories)
Most of the parts from an 86 or 87 will fit your car, and some parts from the 89-92 models will also fit. Note that the expensive 86-88 plastic stereo surround cracks after a few years in the sun, so many people replace it with the more durable rubber 89-92 stereo surround and center AC ducts.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 01:49 AM
  #6  
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From: Valparaiso, Indiana
Thanks a lot! I should've worded that as "What was my model". Yeah, as far as I can tell, and the advice from everyone, it's been modified so much.

I have the door handles apart right now for replacement, but I will find out the exact model in the morning. Then I can start putting things in that it was supposed to have, but have been removed.

As for the antenna, I've yet to decide about stock radio or aftermarket, but right now, it's not too important. Again, thanks a ton. I seriously love this place. I've already started, and I'm going to do a full project log when the car is done!
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 04:15 PM
  #7  
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From: Valparaiso, Indiana
Update on the model number: I looked on the door sticker, and it's showing FB05. I couldn't find that on the listing in the Fiche manual. Doing a bit of digging to find more information.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #8  
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From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Originally Posted by 88rotors
I've yet to decide about stock radio or aftermarket
The stock radio sucks by today's standards. It will not pick up HD stations, the CD player skips like crazy and will not work with any modern format like MP3, and there is no USB port or Bluetooth support for a mobile device. I would replace it with a nice aftermarket unit unless you care more about a stock look than you do about the music.

Originally Posted by 88rotors
Update on the model number: I looked on the door sticker, and it's showing FB05. I couldn't find that on the listing in the Fiche manual. Doing a bit of digging to find more information.
In that case contact the dealer and they can tell you the trim level if you give them the VIN.
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