brando2468

Black red and the other is black red as well just a little thicker gauge

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iTrader: (1)

The 2 wire plug in the 1st pic is for the cold start assist feature which injects coolant into the engine. Mazda later stated it did not work and it appears in your pic that the coolant reservoir is removed so you don't need the plug. The other plug in that pic which has 4 wires is for the cruise control actuator. Neither of these plugs is the root cause of your problem. Go ahead and do the meter test for the plug w/2 wires as found in pic #2 as previously suggested and you'll have 4 plugs out of the way.

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iTrader: (1)

In pic #5 try doing a continuity test focusing on the Green wire. Unplug ECU plug housing pin 2L (Green wire) and use the meter set to continuity to see if this Green wire (also located at the plug pictured) rings out. If it does then the plug goes to the intake air temp sensor on the driver side of the engine near the oil pressure sender (Yellow wire).

brando2468

Did not get any tone at all on that test on original continuity test

brando2468

I got that one thanks

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iTrader: (1)

In the last pic which features a 2 wire plug with a Red/Green and a Black/Yellow wire and the plug is located near the trailing coil and the B/Y wire has voltage w/key to on then it is for the back up lights (reverse lights).

brando2468

Ok got that thanks so none of which has to do with spark correct

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iTrader: (1)

This the info you supplied for pic #2:

Picture 2
2wire bl/w w
picture 2
one wire gr/bl

Picture 2
2wire
bl/w. Bl/r


Now we know what the single wire plug is for but lets focus on the other two plugs. The plug near your index finger has a B/W and a B/R. Correct? And the other plug (next to your thumb) has a B/W and a White wire?

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iTrader: (1)

Correct.

brando2468

Correct

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iTrader: (1)

Go back to pin 1S which should be a Brown/Red wire and w/that ECU plug unplugged do a continuity test w/the Black/Red wire found in pic #2. If it rings out it is for the port air solenoid. Also, do a continuity test with the wire in pin 1I which should be Black/Blue and the White wire in pic #2 to see if it is for the split air solenoid.

And while your at the ECU do a continuity test on the Green/Yellow wire at pin 1V and the G/Y wire at the lead coil to see if that wire is okay or not. Also, verify that pin 1V is indeed G/Y.

brando2468

Everything stated was good testing wise 3l Is g/l

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iTrader: (1)

You're saying pin 3I is Green/Blue???

brando2468

1v is g/y

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iTrader: (1)

What does this mean? This is just what I asked you and it had nothing to do with pin 1V being Green/Yellow.

brando2468

I made a typing mistake earlier I was trying to tell you when you said to make sure1v is green yellow and it is so what color is 3l suppose to be b/w correct

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iTrader: (1)

Black/White. And I would make sure that you rotate the main pulley more than one full revolution to see if the voltage changes on the G/Y wire at the lead coil. Also, make sure you unplug the CAS and possibly clean the plug connection and make sure the pins are push forward into the plugs so they make good contact w/each other.

brando2468

Ok so I cleaned all pins and made sure all was connected pin wise
rotated pully and signal wire shows 3.9 volts and 0 rotated about 5 or so times is this signal wire putting out enough volts to cause a spark to occur is there a way to test just the coil pack

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iTrader: (1)

Are you stating that the voltage changes from 3.9 volts to 0 volts and back to 3.9 volts. If so, then this is how it is supposed to work. When the reading turns to 0 volts that is the ECU telling the coil to fire. The signal wire just signals the coil to fire as it is not required to put out voltage to fire the coil as 0 volts is what's required to fire the coil.

If you get the alternating values then you need to check for spark in a different manner. You go to the lead coil and pull both plug wires off of the coil bore. You then place the plug wires close enough to the coil bores where there is a fraction of an inch separating the two. Then w/key to start you should see some spark flashes.

brando2468

Ok so I don't see spark flashes does that mean the coil is bad

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iTrader: (1)

If you are sure the coil is grounded properly then chances are the coil/igniter is not good.

brando2468

I did all grounds yesterday when reading arroncake page he did ill get a coil assembly and let you know thanks man

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iTrader: (1)

There are different types of grounds. You wires which feed ground signals to components then there are grounds which are the result of a a component coming in contact w/a ground surface. I'm not sure but did you sand down the contact points between the fender and the coil bracket. If this ground is not solid then the coil does not work. There are no ground wires to the coil/igniter itself. There is a bullet connector wire coming from each coil but that is not supposed to be connected to each other. Also, the bolt thread into the fender can be cleaned as well as grease can muck up that part of the grounding surface.

brando2468

Yes s ir I took it off coil assembly and sanded down the paint then I also cleaned and sanded down the 2 wires that run to the coil from the igniter and sanded the metal around coil everything that seemed would be a problem I did ... you would not have any coil assemblies laying around would you

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iTrader: (1)

No I do not but they are usually quite easy to find in the classified section of this site.