moparjon

let me just start by saying this is not my car its a buddies i normally work on big block mopars but the rotor has always make me interested to see it work and to work on it.. My buddies car is a 87 N/A I’ve put more time into working on his daily driver for him than my own. three months ago his starter was giving him some trouble so we pulled it out clean the contacts and I told him this will happen again he said ill get another starter well he put it on the back burner and forgot then winter came and of course what happens the start take a crap the 7 been down for two weeks during that time it got down to super low temps two day it was -5 below during the day so last weekend i changed the starter the car need a jump to start I jumped it. away we went we drove it long enough to charge the battery shut it down and try to start it and the starter sound a little stressed, but it crank over good but it will not start... it almost sounds and acts flooded to me, but we can push start it with little effort and runs just fine I’ve been through the top end of the motor changed all the hoses and vacuum line a few months back that help a bunch. Monday i went back and swapped batteries out of my 360 dakota and it still did not want to start sat there and cranked. i put an amp gauge on the starter and it pulled 200 amps on starting seems a little high to me but its has great compression the one thing that I do not like is the spark color on all the coils lead and trail spark is orange which to me i think that a week spark im use to having a dark to light blue spark. plugs are in good shape…. i guess what i want to know is there something that is not letting it start when the key is in the start position of the switch but is gone when the key is in the run position. if i could not push start the car i would say it flooded and normally when its push started if its warmed up it only takes one try and all she needs is about a four mile an hour push pop the clutch and boom it starts. any ideas would be great.. at least some where for me to start...

Dias_Stronomy

Just guesstamating but even new parts can be bad. You might have got a remanded pos. Or its a wiring issue with your starter.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

Its kind of hard to understand what your situation is here. Is your problem that it is having a hard time cold starting? As if it turns over very well but will not start? Or it barely turns over because the starter cant turn it fast enough?

If it is turning over fine and not starting, i would reccomend checking your secondary injector connections (the actual electrical connection). My car had a very hard time starting in the cold and i found out that one of the injector connections was bent and not connecting (which also affected my 3800 hesitation issues). Since secondaries aid in cold starting (i believe they do anyways i may have read the fsm wrong) they need to be in proper working order to assist in cold starts.

It also wouldnt hurt to check all grounds from the battery amd altenator and on the engine as they can also affect secondary injector performance.

Im fairly new at rotaries so i may have some info mixed up so dont quote me on it. But once i fixed the above items mentioned, my car (87 n/a) has not had a single cold start issue in nearly a month.

moparjon

I’m thinking at this point that the starter not fast enough to start the car I’m thinking it either the positive or the ground is not good enough or the starter needs to be taken back. it takes me a little bit to look at something usually step back and trouble shoot electrical especially something like this car thanks guys for the input. ill keep you posted on what i find. my bet it’s the ground strap is bad.

Andrewjames

I have a 86 na and it won't cold start I have to push start it..but it will start by key when engine is warm?? Why

satch

iTrader: (1)

There could be a couple of causes for your problem. You'll need to check pin 2I of the ECU and see what the voltage reading is for when the car is cold, as the voltage w/key to on should be between 2 to 3 volts. When the ECU gets this specific voltage signal it helps the ECU realize more fuel is required to start the cold engine. When the engine is warm the reading on this pin, which connects to the Water Thermosensor, would read about .5 volts, which tells the ECU the engine is warm and therefor injects less fuel upon start up. Again, this might be one of the causes. The other one could be the reading on pin 3B of the ECU might be incorrect, which would once again use too little fuel to start a cold engine. W/key to start this ECU pin should have about 10 volts to as little as 8 volts or so.

Pin 3B is found in the smallest ECU plug and is found on the bottom row far right position. Wire color is Black/Blue. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor is in the middle sized plug and is Green/White and it's the top row middle position of that row. Place the Red volt meter lead into the back of the ECU plug in the proper wire position and the Black meter lead to a ground such as one of the ECU mounting bolts.

Lmill86

iTrader: (10)

2o year old cars have all sorts of wierd problems. Great to learn on!