87 FC n/a no spark, fuel or tach
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87 FC n/a no spark, fuel or tach
Hey guys! Long long long time reader 1st time poster!
So I've been reading on here for a few months now on this subject I can't find anything yet so I'm hoping some of the s4/s5 guys can help me out.
Car ran when I got it after plugging in coils, removing the old gas for new, adding a new fuel filter, plugs and wires.
It has the dreaded 4800 "rev limit" like the secondary injectors don't fire or something. And the fuel gauge was buried below zero. As far as I know that's all that was wrong with it so I went and took out the fuel pump harness and moved the float arm back and forth to see if it was stuck put it back in and cleaned the little ground on top of the fuel pump harness.
It started right up and the gas gauge worked so yay success. So I turn it off to go back to work for 3 hours come back to start it and it starts then dies after 2 seconds.
Now it will crank but no tach movement, no spark, no fuel and no sounds of relays clicking on when keyed to the "on" position. All the gauges don't work except the voltage. (12.62v)
I've cleaned all the grounds at there locations, replaced the main circuit relay, the circuit opening relay and all fuses.
I'm stumped I can't find loose connections, broken wires or anything obvious so any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!
So I've been reading on here for a few months now on this subject I can't find anything yet so I'm hoping some of the s4/s5 guys can help me out.
Car ran when I got it after plugging in coils, removing the old gas for new, adding a new fuel filter, plugs and wires.
It has the dreaded 4800 "rev limit" like the secondary injectors don't fire or something. And the fuel gauge was buried below zero. As far as I know that's all that was wrong with it so I went and took out the fuel pump harness and moved the float arm back and forth to see if it was stuck put it back in and cleaned the little ground on top of the fuel pump harness.
It started right up and the gas gauge worked so yay success. So I turn it off to go back to work for 3 hours come back to start it and it starts then dies after 2 seconds.
Now it will crank but no tach movement, no spark, no fuel and no sounds of relays clicking on when keyed to the "on" position. All the gauges don't work except the voltage. (12.62v)
I've cleaned all the grounds at there locations, replaced the main circuit relay, the circuit opening relay and all fuses.
I'm stumped I can't find loose connections, broken wires or anything obvious so any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Not that nubie sir lol be there done that, that's how I know it's not getting fuel. I probably should've mentioned this isn't my 1st rotary, and all basic non starting problems have been looked over like flooding and loose connections. Definitely not getting fuel or spark. (Why I changed the main circuit relay and opening relay)
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The B/W wire gets 11.70v but nothing off the B/Y. I rechecked the 2 wire plug again for ***** and giggles and no voltage off either wire. (Knew I should've checked that myself lol) so the only wire getting voltage for the main relay is the B/W wire on the 4 wire connection
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The B/Y is powered by the White/Blue wire of the relay plug w/key to on. If B/Y is powerless w/key to on then check the White/Blue wire for 12 volts (no key needed). If this wire is w/o voltage then it's likely the EGI INJ fuse is blown (fuse powers the coils and injectors).
And the B/W wire in the 4 wire plug can only have voltage w/key to on because w/key to on the relay is activated by voltage on the B/W wire in the 2 wire plug thus if you have power on the 4 wire plug's B/W wire then the other B/W wire (2 wire plug) must have voltage. And it's good to use the negative battery terminal to use as a ground source for testing voltage.
And the B/W wire in the 4 wire plug can only have voltage w/key to on because w/key to on the relay is activated by voltage on the B/W wire in the 2 wire plug thus if you have power on the 4 wire plug's B/W wire then the other B/W wire (2 wire plug) must have voltage. And it's good to use the negative battery terminal to use as a ground source for testing voltage.
Last edited by satch; 03-03-17 at 06:10 PM.
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The circuit opening relay clicks regardless of good fuse, bad fuse and no fuse so I assume the short is on the fuel pump side of the circuit?
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We are getting closer! I can feel it! Lol
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The power wire for the fuel pump was frayed on the inside of the tank where it bolts to the top of the fuel pump holder and causing the fuse to pop. Everything works great now! Thanks for all the help guys!