I have an '84 RX-7 GSL that has sat idle for about 18 months. It wasn't driven very much before that. Within the past month I took off the carb and did a thorough cleaning and rebuild. When finished, I put the carb back on and then checked the ignition system. The cap and rotor are in great shape as well as the spark plugs and wires. I got good spark at the plugs. Made sure that fuel is reaching carb. I made sure that there were no open vaccum lines.

The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it starts up just fine, but when the engine warms up, and the choke releases, it dies within 10 seconds and I am unable to get it started again. Once the engine is cold again it will fire right up.

Any suggestions on what might cause this is appreciated.

 

Check the timing. Do some reading www.sterlingmetalworks.com

 

ur problem could be worse than u think.it sounds like bad coolant seals to me and could possible be that if the car was parked for a while.pull the radiater/thermostat cap and have a friend to crank the motor over.if the coolant stays calm then ur fine and move on to the next idea.if the coolant is sloshing around as the engine is turning over then ur coolant seal(s) is bad and ur goin2 need a rebuild.if ur seal(S) seam fine then i would check the timing and go from there.good luck and i wish u the best

 

Naw, probably just clogged jets, ports, or some other carb type thingy. The choke lets it run rich enough to keep an idle, but once that's gone it runs too lean and dies.

 

well i guess so,i didnt think of that.im fuel injected.but doesn't it have a manuel choke?i've checked out a coupl of first gens and they all had manuel chokes.or was that only till a certain year?anyways,Good Luck

 

Hi, did you ever get this sorted? What was the cause?

 

i am having the same problem with a 1985 12a with holley 650, did you ever figured this out

 

I actually had a bad plug that caused this once.

 

I put brand new plugs the engine supposedly has about 200 miles after rebuild. it starts good when cold but once it warms up, if i shut it off it wont start. I also switched the distributor, coils wires and no luck

 

When you say it was rebuilt, you used the word "supposedly", does this mean you do not trust the work done? The reason why I ask is because the compression must be good. Check it by just turning the motor over fast as you can, and see if there is a good popping sound every 180degrees, if not the work done was not good. Turn it a few times. Also check the timing. You can also put oil into each cylinder via the lower spark plug hole and see if it then starts (when already warm). This will also prove bad compression. Do not strip the motor or have it worked on again until you are sure the problem is not external. Is the motor getting enough fuel? Alot of car makes run when cold but not when hot if the fuel pump is faulty or insufficient.

 

^ well the engine looks super clean, but without paper work is hard to be sure. i pulled the plugs crank it and it sounds strong, the car has the stock fuel pump and a holley pump with a toggle switch. i usually don't use the holley pump afraid that i will flood it.

Now, with timing it looks like the dizzy is turned all the way clockwise. i am not really familiar with the timing in these cars. also the 12A is Bridgeported.

 

I have fuel injection, cannot help with the carb. Did you check the above history and read the post about the coolant seals? Are your seals OK?

 

Vapor lock?

It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to gas while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult.

The fuel can vaporize due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readily.

 

ok, i was talking to a friend that works on rotaries and he was telling me that the bearings inside the motor might be bad and might need to be replaced. apparently when the bearings are bad the rotaries will start when cold but not once they warm up.

 

Oh boy, so the motor was not properly rebuilt and has to be opened up again!

 

^ That's what he told me, but i feel iffy about it because if the motor was indeed built by el indio racing from orlando Fl. that guys knows his **** and I don't think he would have close the motor like that. if anything i will buy a gasket kit and re-open it but i will keep trying to fix it messing with timing etc.

 

Post a new thread and ask if anyone knows how to check these bearings without opening the motor.

 

Carb or tuning issues. Your motor is most likely fine.

Check this thread: http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...odedCarbs.html

 

i opened the motor and the bearings where , well here are some pics...
flywheel bolt first sign of trouble lol


yup thats the pilot bearing, or was


rotor bearings


main rear bearing,

 

 

so she is back together, new bearings, new housings, new rotors. lol new e-shaft, i basically used a spare 12A i had in my garage. i was thinking about using one the 13b's but i am saving those for the other cars.




she is going in the car tomorrow, and in this case my problem was a bad rebuild.

 

BTW that rotor on the floor is garbage and is not going to be used ever, i gave it to my friend as a decorative item...

 

Don't you love it when you have to fix other peoples "fixes?"

 

i was mad when i took it appart but it was a good feeling rebuilding it, is like therapy.

 

i have an 83 with the same problem, starts right up and runs GREAT when being sat overnight, my problem was that the guy i bought it from let it sit for 2 years and slowly pulled parts off of it for his other car, after redoing the carb several times, adjusting the timing, new rotor cap plug wires and plugs, new battery, new clutch, and several other parts, i noticed that there was this little electronic part sitting in the passenger seat, but i couldnt find a place for it. turns out it was the ICM(ignition control module) and its a very expensive part. plugged that back in, never had the same problem again and the car runs just fine. go figure