3rd Gen - What is that hole above the spark plugs?
Took a video for diagnostic purposes. This car hasn't been run but about 1/2 mile from the drop off to my house in I don't know how long. Needed to change oil, belts (one broke), and plugs before I wanted to run it and diagnose it. It seems pretty good to me, the idle calmed down a lot once it warmed up. I want to know what you all think. It sounds (idle, revs, etc) a lot more like my 1st gen car setup for racing than it does a daily driver. Maybe the previous owner tuned it for track driving...? It definitely shows indications of a track car (but not enough that I think the person was a serious track driver).
Looked at that video a couple of times now. I'm a little worried about the smoke, but it seems to be lessening the more I run the car (still have only warmed it up twice then shut it down). It's not overly white or blue, in fact it looks more grey black, which might just be due to the highly efficient engine we have that has sat for a few months (at least) and had crappy spark plugs before now. It does seem less each time, and my first gen spits actual fire out the back, so I don't know if this is a point to be worried about.
BTW, I see in my searches a lot of people shifting at 5k or so, and recommendations to not redline the engine. I don't drive my first gen Under 6k, ever, as the engine bogs. I've always seen rotories run at high rpms, so I don't understand taking it easy on these engines. I heard that will actually carb them up. Just curious if there's a complete change from 12a to 13b in how you treat the engine. I know I drove a 20b for a while like I drive my 12a (never below 6k) and it never performed better. Thoughts?
BTW, I see in my searches a lot of people shifting at 5k or so, and recommendations to not redline the engine. I don't drive my first gen Under 6k, ever, as the engine bogs. I've always seen rotories run at high rpms, so I don't understand taking it easy on these engines. I heard that will actually carb them up. Just curious if there's a complete change from 12a to 13b in how you treat the engine. I know I drove a 20b for a while like I drive my 12a (never below 6k) and it never performed better. Thoughts?
Turns out this RX7 is an R1 model that originally was competition yellow (J9 code on VIN and I can find spots inside the panels). I put eyes on the dual oil coolers and I believe it's the original suede seats too. The seats are actually in really good shape.
Awesome. I was going to speculate on that when I saw your earlier pic in this thread of the mystery plug. I thought I saw hints of yellow. Somewhere there is a VIN decoding thread if you want more confirmation.
Regarding the idle, it sounds like it might be ported. Is the compression good. That's should be the first thing to check
Also as a quick fix, you can replace the TB elbow stud with a nut. If there's not much clearance, you'll probably need a small head nut or an allen screw with a washer. Contact Ray Crowe to see if there's an OEM replacement or as mentioned McMaster Carr
And for the life of me, i don't understand why people do the things they do (e.g. paint a CYM white and hack the interior). And all CYMs were R1s BTW
Also as a quick fix, you can replace the TB elbow stud with a nut. If there's not much clearance, you'll probably need a small head nut or an allen screw with a washer. Contact Ray Crowe to see if there's an OEM replacement or as mentioned McMaster Carr
And for the life of me, i don't understand why people do the things they do (e.g. paint a CYM white and hack the interior). And all CYMs were R1s BTW
A CYM painted white? That paint is SOOOO expensive!!
Anyways, welcome!! Regarding your knock sensor issue, as well as many of the other sensors and little issues you are sure to come across in the near future....if you have to question it, replace it. Atkinsrotary is your friend.
I also recommend you get a compression test so you know what you're up against, because that will be the basis of everything else regarding the life of the engine. I suspect the car sat for a significant amount of time so I couldn't be too concerned with the smoke (seems to be condensation, but I could be wrong), but I wouldn't spend another penny on it until you get a compression test.
Welcome!! I look forward to seeing this car returned to former glory (AND COLOR!!)
Anyways, welcome!! Regarding your knock sensor issue, as well as many of the other sensors and little issues you are sure to come across in the near future....if you have to question it, replace it. Atkinsrotary is your friend.
I also recommend you get a compression test so you know what you're up against, because that will be the basis of everything else regarding the life of the engine. I suspect the car sat for a significant amount of time so I couldn't be too concerned with the smoke (seems to be condensation, but I could be wrong), but I wouldn't spend another penny on it until you get a compression test.
Welcome!! I look forward to seeing this car returned to former glory (AND COLOR!!)
I agree, I need to run a compression test. I did a test drive for 10 mins just to check out the turbos and such and... wow... this car pulls like a madman. I didn't realize it was this insane. It's going to make my gen 1 race car feel lame. In fact, I've run Ferraris (430, 458) around the track and this is more thrilling. You feel so much in this car. Even though the Ferrari is faster, it's a modern car where a lot is dampened. This thing is fast, and raw. I feel like I could easily terrify any passenger.
Radiator Fans
Ok, neither radiator fan is kicking on. I let the car idle and get up to temp, and I have a infrared thermo sensor so I was checking temps at various spots (radiator, fill cap, thermostat, etc) and while the car got up to operating temps (101-108c) I didn't see the fans kick on. I've been checking connections and stuff, but everything seems to be where it should be. So, what are my likely problems that the fans aren't kicking on? This is a pretty complex fan system (I read up on it) and I don't know if I should replace relays, sensors, etc. I would think they should engage at least at low speed at some point, so something has to be interuppting the whole system.
The stock fan thermoswitch initiates at 105 C. It’s located on the back side of the thermostat housing. Are you certain you let it get hot enough?
It was OBD1 as a new 93. So somethings not right. Can you post a picture?
It was OBD1 as a new 93. So somethings not right. Can you post a picture?
Last edited by Sgtblue; Jun 17, 2019 at 05:41 PM.
The 2nd photo has me holding the cover to the "diagnosis" port open. Borrowed my friend's OBD2 reader and it's clearly NOT an OBD2 port. Reading up on the fuel system it appears those relays in the front where the stock airbox would be are for the fuel pump (or at least one is), but I swear the fans are connected to that box (maybe the 4 fan relays route through there).
Any help?
Any help?
Re: 2nd pic, that’s the OBD 1 diagnostic box.
Re: the 4th pic, not sure what the rectangular box and connector are for on the the relay bracket. Although the bracket has a provision for ‘something’ to be attached there, my car only has the 4 square fan relay boxes.
You might want to have a read thru these threads if you haven’t already....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-906142/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ntrols-876767/
Re: the 4th pic, not sure what the rectangular box and connector are for on the the relay bracket. Although the bracket has a provision for ‘something’ to be attached there, my car only has the 4 square fan relay boxes.
You might want to have a read thru these threads if you haven’t already....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-906142/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ntrols-876767/
Last edited by Sgtblue; Jun 21, 2019 at 03:26 PM.
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