When checking for fuel pressure it's also a good idea to place the gauge inline so you can see how the FPR is acting upon the fuel system. Placing it inline after the fuel filter is a good place.

 

I have rig up a tee,and hook my gauge to it,ect.
All i did was put my gauge on the end of the hose,and turned the pump on.
Just to see how much pressure it was sending.

I am going to make a tee and look at it while it is running.
But my readings where at:
outlet on fuel filter #2 by firewall
Then return line at firewall after the fuel had gone through the system.

80 lbs all around

 

When you tee it in you should have between 28 psi on the low end up to 40 psi or so w/the vacuum line to the FPR disconnected.

 

Ok,thanks.
I will make one up tomorrow,and try again,and disconect the fpr.
This car is basically an Arizona car, it is clean,no rust, and even under the hood looks like it only has around 50,000 miles on it.
Though it has 130,000.
The paint on the firewall,shock towers,ect are still shiny.
Even the electrical connections are clean on the outside,and inside.
It belonged to a forest fire fighter.

 

Ran another fuel test today.
80lbs pressure from pump,gauge at outlet of secondary filter by firewall.
Next test was a running test.

Pressure was 38lbs,between secondary filter,and line going to primary injectors.
When i pulled the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator,the pressure went to 40lbs.
Sooooo,i guess i will pull the injectors,and try and clean,or buy 2 used ones,then take the 2 removed to see if they can be cleaned,ect,and keep for spares.

 

Ok,Update,and thanks to all who helped,but especially satch that has stuck it through with me.
Installed new fuel pressure regulator.I was not getting proper pressure,but for $15.00.Who cares.
Then pulled the secondary injectors,and wired them to the rail.Then ran engine and could see them squirting.
So,my dad suggested to disconnect the exhaust system.So,we did from the first bolts,under the exhaust manifold.
Holy Crap,9,000 rpms.
Undid the bolts in front of the main Cat,5,000 rpm.
Removed chamber #2.
It was clogged from all the cat stuff.Pieces,ect.
My dad took a steel concrete stake he uses to hold the forms up.Stuck it down the cat,and just beat all the stuff out of it.So now,it is a hollow expansion chamber.
Put it all back together,and runs perfect.
The temp even went down to just barely over the cold mark as we removed the thermostat.
So,I am all set now.
Thanks again Satch. Very much appreciated.

 

Good deal.

 

the best thing to do is rebuild the complete engine, change you computer to a haltech or microtech. and remove all the sensors and unwanted lines and cable. Replace the exhaust and fuel line bigger. That's what i did when my engine died for the firs time. And new big turbo.

 

@ yosfc3s,That might be a great suggestion for a non running car,but for one that only has 137,000 miles,and has been taken care of,i will pass.
This recently a while ago,3 yrs maybe, had a new paint job,17 inch rims put on,and the interior redone.
Even the sun roof works perfect,as all gauges,ect.
Maybe a turbo for sure later on.
Thanks for stopping by though.

 

you got pics?

 

The one pic i have so far is in my profile.
Not to brag,but $600.
It needed a new fuel pump,and of course the Cat issue.
No rust,and even the firewall had no dirt,grime,ect on it.
Even the transmission is clean.And, no the guy didnt wash it or pressure wash it before selling.
He is a Forest fire fighter here in Northern AZ. Just keeps things clean,and nice.
Sat for at least a couple years i think.

 

Where did you find a fuel pressure regulator for 15 bucks? I have a car with the same issues right now lol.

 

so i was sitin here reading this and i think i am haveing close to the same problem my rear fuel injector is not geting fuel it also could be my enigne bay wirning harness

 

Primary or secondary.