There was water in my spark plug hole so i did s Atkins rebuild on the motor.
replaced all rings and seals.
put the motor in and it ran fine, drove it around a couple of days. but it was leaking oil bad out of the top left corner. so i pulled the motor back out of the car and it turned out to be a pinched o ring.
put the motor back in the car and now i cannot get it started.

theses are the symptoms
it will turn over and run for about 10 sec then it seams to flood out.
i the can pull the plugs, cut the fuel pump and purge the gas.
but the same thing happend when i try to restart thr car.

things i have done to fix:
compression in both rotors good over 95
ignition is in time - for sure
good spark at the plugs - for sure
changed fuel ingectors - from a a pick & pull
checked the wire fuses in the front left side of motor
changed water temp censor from pick & pull
checked fueses under the dash.

what make so much gas get in the motor?
is there possibly a fuse somwhere that may have blown that i do not know about?

 

well i found out what was flooding the motor. one of the 6 port cylinders was in the open position.
i had to rework one of the cyinder shafts during the rebuild. and when i assembled the motor the 6th portmust have been opened. so i got the car to start and run for about 5 min. then it died and i am trying to restart it. now i looks like i am not getting any gas in the rotors.

 

well it was not the 6 port aux valve .car still wiil not start.really i am out of ideas

 

the car should start regardless of the aux port positions.

the injectors you swapped in might be bad. Also double check to make sure the plugs for the injectors are correct and not swapped backwards. To me, with the engine coming in and out and whatnot, there is a good chance you missed a connection or ground.

My GSLSE had a similiar issue. Lean rear rotor, hard to start, etc, couldn't quite trace it down (now just swapping to s4 engine and ecu)

 

i will put the original injectors in as they worked fine before i tore the motor down.
there is a plastic nub that keeps you from putting the injectors in backwords

Is there a way to determine if the ijectors are opening and closing whent trying to start?
My feeling is they are just upening and all the gas is rushing into the rotors.

I will check the wiring harnes for loose grounds as well when i change out the injectores.

 

plastic nub on the injector has nothing to do with whether you put the injectors back in the wrong place..or reconnected a wire from the harness to another injector.

 

yup those prevent you from mixing high and low impedance injectors, but you can easily swith inj 1 and 2 with eachother, or even do so far as the thermosensor on the back of the water pump (which is green, but for some reason, a matching keyway)

 

put the original injectors back in today
the both look the same to me.. not sure about the low and high impedence.
i cheched to see if they work and they do
pulled the disributor out and rotated it with the key on. and they pulsed.
checked all ground wires and looked for crimps.
re-assembled
car will still not start

 

is the timing marker on the front cover bent? have you confirmed timing with a light?

 

after playing with crimping the fuel return line and messing with the o2 sensor.
i got it to run for a while like 5 min then it stalled. and wont start.
when it was running it pured like a kitten. so, the motor is put together right and i have the timming close to correct.
now that i know it will run.
i ordered a pressure regulator, cap , rotor and o2 sensor.