1991 FC replacment hood....steel or aluminum?
03-13-11, 10:05 PM
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1991 FC replacment hood....steel or aluminum?
Hey, new to the forum and the rotary world (just got a '91 FC in January) and I had some questions about getting a new hood for my car. My car is an NA steel hooded coupe with a nice, loud, rebuilt engine. I really want to drop a turbo II hood just for the looks (I have no intention of adding a turbo to my car) and I was wondering if I should by an older gen (~'85) steel turbo hood, or save weight and get a newer aluminum hood.
On the manual that I found it said that the hood hinges needed to be switched out an insulated due to 'electrolytic corrosion' (I'm assuming because of discharge) and that the hood lock needed to be switched out due to the lighter hood. I was wondering if anyone has had problems with hinge corrosion and if the ~36 lbs saved going from aluminum-steel is worth swapping out the lock and hinges, thanks.
On the manual that I found it said that the hood hinges needed to be switched out an insulated due to 'electrolytic corrosion' (I'm assuming because of discharge) and that the hood lock needed to be switched out due to the lighter hood. I was wondering if anyone has had problems with hinge corrosion and if the ~36 lbs saved going from aluminum-steel is worth swapping out the lock and hinges, thanks.
03-14-11, 12:48 AM
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I can't say I've ever heard of anyone having corrosion on the hood latch. My convertible came with an aluminum hood, and has had an aluminum TII hood for 10+ years. The latch is entirely made of steel, the hinges are steel, and the bolts attaching them are steel. No corrosion. I think you would have to submerge the front end of the car in a salt water solution to get that to occur.
The real problem with using an aluminum hood with a steel-hood latch is you'll have to slam the hood to get it to latch. The spring is stronger, and it will take more force to close.
The real problem with using an aluminum hood with a steel-hood latch is you'll have to slam the hood to get it to latch. The spring is stronger, and it will take more force to close.
03-15-11, 07:09 PM
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the aluminum hood is a Drop in/ON replacement for the steel hood.
as Rocket said,the only thing that you are gonna encounter us the Hood latch being used.
Since the steel hood is heavier it has a stronger spring,and you'll have to slam the aluminum hood to latch it.
OR get a latch from another car that had an aluminum hood(like a vert),drop that in and you are good to go.
as Rocket said,the only thing that you are gonna encounter us the Hood latch being used.
Since the steel hood is heavier it has a stronger spring,and you'll have to slam the aluminum hood to latch it.
OR get a latch from another car that had an aluminum hood(like a vert),drop that in and you are good to go.
03-15-11, 07:31 PM
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steel has its pros and cons and so does the aluminum. the aluminum is light but easier to dent. i knew a guy who snapped an alternator belt and it put a huge dent in the hood. i have one of each and im rockin my steel hood since its not as flimsy and the little weight diff doesnt do much. on another note, remember that FC's are under steer queens and more weight in the front helps.
03-16-11, 09:07 AM
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Go ahead and go for the lighter hood. I have the lighter hood with the old steel setup and the only down side like others have said is that you really gotta toss that hood down in order to close it. I have never had to prob with this setup and believe me that hood has been removed countless times to do work !
