alright ignition problem solved, steering wheel locked up I guess, thank goodness, now on to that test drive
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clutch is no longer sticking, so here's hoping this was it (slave cylinder)
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can anyone tell me where the ground wire is for the headlight retractors? Thought I'd check this before I try to locate another switch
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Originally Posted by FLSaffire
(Post 11783145)
can anyone tell me where the ground wire is for the headlight retractors? Thought I'd check this before I try to locate another switch
Why would you need another switch? |
the retractors will not go down and I read somewhere on FSM to check ground
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Originally Posted by FLSaffire
(Post 11783285)
the retractors will not go down and I read somewhere on FSM to check ground
There is a knob above the "main knob" on the headlight switch that is used to pop the lights up to clean them. IF that knob is in the UP position then your headlights will pop up but NOT go down. IS that a possibility here? |
tried that knob up and down still not working, we actually tried to manually lower them from the bottom (forgetting to disconnect the battery) and neither one will go down as it makes a jump to keep up if this makes sense. This tells me they are getting power, so maybe it's that interior switch??
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still need to find that ground
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The White/Green wire powers the retractors via the retractor fuse.
The Red/Yellow and Red/Blue wires dictates whether the light goes up or down. One will have voltage on it while the other will not. When the voltage switches and the non voltage switches between the two wires then the retractor moves in the opposite direction. The ground is for the relay and the motor retractor for each headight. This is the only role of the ground. There is one single ground spot for both and the wires involved are Black. |
Originally Posted by FLSaffire
(Post 11783310)
tried that knob up and down still not working, we actually tried to manually lower them from the bottom (forgetting to disconnect the battery) and neither one will go down as it makes a jump to keep up if this makes sense. This tells me they are getting power, so maybe it's that interior switch??
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thank you for the information, it's appreciated
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well clutch pedal worked fine for 1 day after replacing the "slave cylinder", now it is back to sticking to the floor and have to lift with foot to release. So I'm guessing the Clutch Master Cylinder is the next thing to replace.
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Yup, when you replace one, you do them both
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thanks Iduley, just ordered one
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car won't start, any suggestions?
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apparently maybe I need to do the unflood procedure I read online by pulling the E?? fuse? going to relay this info to person who's going to where the car is, hoping this will do this will remedy the issue, fingers crossed!
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4 hours later and the car started just fine. I do have an issue with the car having a intermitting vibration lasting 5 mins. or so at a time, steering wheel doesn't shake, seems like it's coming from the rear.
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1st thing I'll do is get the car to tire shop and check all the wheel balances....
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