1990 Mazda rx7 Convertible...please help
 

Hi, car is back on the road, after some battery issues, I have a few problems and I'm hoping I can address them here over time and maybe someone can help me. The Air/Smog pump is and was without a belt from the time I purchased the car, I have this annoying squeal everytime I change gears. I thought it was a belt, but come to find out it is from this pump. My question is where is the electrical connector located so I can dis-connect this or any other way to do so. Any suggestions is appreciated, thank you, Marylee

The air pump has no electrical connector so it is most likely internal.
That or your belt is crap and is not tight or worn.
Belt squeal is usually associated with glazed,worn,misaligned or loose belts.

If indeed it is the pump itself I would suggest putting up a WTB ad and see if you can get a used one from a fellow member.
I'd guess the pump used would run you about 30-40 bucks.
I tried taking an s4 pump apart and I tell ya they are one inventive piece of shit inside.

The OP said he didn't have a belt on the AP, so it can't be that squeeling if theres nothing turning it

is the squeel when your shifting gears? or letting up on the clutch? or small animal hiding under the car lol

I went with the word "WAS",as I assumed he put another belt on.

If not the main pulley is over-revving past the Belt tension and making the squeal.

You may want to delete your emissions and rats nest, as we do not have emissions testing down here.

The sound that you are hearing could be your alt or power steering pulley, check belt tensions.

You and your wording lol

..along with my use of Quotation marks and Capitals I have a tri-fecta!

it squeals when it revs past 3000rpm and gets worse after this, and it's not a kitten, I make sure they are not underneath when I start it up lol

That depends on the kitten lol

But definitely check your belt tensions, thats were i would start

your funny! I have had this squeal since buying the car quite awhile ago, I've had it checked by 4-5 "mechanics" to no avail, their explanations made no sense, I guess that's why I don't remember them! A mobile mechanic came here just this past Tuesday. He's the one who said it was the air pump (which has no belt attached) making this noise. He checked the larger belt and said it was too large and replaced it. Still have the noise. Anyway this is least of my problems now as the car went in "limp mode" 40-45 while driving 60 then stalled, was able to re-start, had a burning like odor from under hood? I tried doing the code check and I can't do it, the only idiot light that goes out after turning the key is the airbag, other lights are staying on (maybe I'm not doing it right IDK) I have spark plugs and wires coming, I'm wondering if the fuel filter may be the problem?

You have to ground the Orange wire in a Green check connector located near the lead coil. Then turn the key to on.

what orange wire? I read your suppose to use any wire or paper clip, stick in the small green connector (located on each side of the car) then ground other end by placing it either on the negative side of battery or the fender

ok orange wire is the green connector, finally I got a code, now to see what it means, thank you

It's putting out 2 codes I think, 1st one flashes one time, pause then 2 longer flashes, not sure what the first one means but I think the 2 long ones is for 20? MOP, and reading here it can cause the limp mode, I'm going to look for this under the hood, checking the grounding to it first??
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY!

I'd like to make sure of these codes, do I have to link video from youtube? as I seen someone else did

11 1 Long & 1 Short Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine)
10 1 Long Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM)

ok, thank you, on to do research on these....

alright, does this always mean I need to change the AFM or sensor? or could a blocked air filter cause both of these problems?? Reason I'm asking is my son cleaned the air filer (racing kind on car when I purchased it) he used a kit and used the included oil on it. I'm wondering if maybe it wasn't as clean as he thought and maybe the oil helped to clog it?? IDK I will take the filter off and drive it, to see if it's still losing power, but I have to wait as I don't want to get stranded down the road!

I took the air filter off to see if this is the problem, drove the car a few miles at 60-70 and it's working fine! yeah...I'm in the wrong line of work. Now off to get a new air filter and unplug the negative battery cable and re-test for the code again to see if it clears. Thanks to all of you for your help and advice, I'm sure I'll be back with more issues from time to time. I'll also post a photo of my car sometime. Excellent web site!

Hows' the cat?...flat?

lol, all stray kitties here and accounted for! So I re-checked the code and it is sending something, I'll go and take another video of it, brb

is this recent reading the #10 intake air thermosensor? I'll have to re-check once I get another air filter as well I'm thinking

Looks like one of the previous codes which was one long flash which is the AFM's intake air thermosensor. Pin 2K of the ECU (Green/Orange wire) should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and the air temp at 68 degrees F. If you get the same error code after placing a new air filter in then either the sensor has gone bad, which means a replacement AFM is needed or the Green wire at the AFM (possibly the ECU as well although very unlikely) has a poor connection.

thank you, that's what I thought, now what to do about it, I guess the air filter did have something to do with the #11 code

Interesting since we did have the ECU disconnected awhile ago, as I thought it needed to be replaced, when all along I just needed a new battery. I hope I can fiqure this out. Have to purchase a filter and a meter to check what you said if need be. When you say key to on, do you mean just on without starting?

Code 11, sensor at the engine measures the air temp at the engine. I guess the air filter being removed could cause the code not to be thrown if the filter was clogged but it's a bit suspicious.

Pin 2L (Green wire) of the ECU is for this sensor as it should read 1 to 2 volts at full operating temp.

alright, hope to get a filter this afternoon and a meter, too. I know how to get to the ECU unit (better if your a pretzel) lol, how or where is this AFM sensor in case I need to replace..or check that wire

Yes. First position is ACC and the next position is on.

thank you so much, you've been more then helpful, I'll log back in later with an update. Have a great afternoon everyone

Napa doesn't carry this filter, she said it should last a life time and to try soaking it in Dawn, so it's in a bucket now...bought a meter to check the retractors, interior light, wipers and on and on. Good news however, bought a window switch off Ebay and both windows now work. Wish I could fiqure out the squeal under the hood...

update- filter cleaned and put back on, limp mode issue solved, squeal still a problem at 3000rpm+, no belt on the air/smog pump, mobile mechanic changed the larger belt (not sure which this is called) weary of checking the others as I haven't a clue, but will do my best tomorrow. Car isn't here right now. The "mechanic" is the one who said the noise was from the smog pump, but people here are saying that's impossible if there's no belt on it...Wiper wasn't working, I gave it a smack at the switch and it came on, but with a noise from the motor, slow going and won't turn off at proper position, have to time it, read here that it could be the relay switch, but not sure since it is making a rough noise at the motor

spoke to soon, car was fine a few days, now "limp mode" strikes again! on to read of possible problems that can cause this issue

question...code is showing the AFM, I've read here that "limp mode" issue could be the AFM, but I also read it could be the OMP, anyway to tell which one would probally do this. If it is the AFM can someone link me to where this is located on the car/motor, thanks

Under the air filter.

hello! ok, I read too that it's probally not the OMp since I'm not getting a code for that

is this easy to change replace?

do I need to replaced this entire piece? or is it just a sensor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-91-Mazda-Rx-7-Air-Flow-Meter-AFM-13B-Non-Turbo-RX7-N350-FC-/221369558170?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338aa7649a&vxp=mtr

It could be the whole AFM which is need of replacement or it could be the wiring/plug to the sensor which is the cause for the error code.. The FSM illustrates how to check the sensor to some extent (found in the fuel and emissions section). Once you remove the air box it is easy to get at.

thanks so much, will be working on this tomorrow, car isn't here right now, have a great afternoon!

what do you mean air box? are you talking about the cylinder air flow meter?

The air filter is in the air box.

I have a after market air filter and a plug is connected to the air flow meter, I took the AFM off and checked it for cracks, etc, brushed the connectors, is the sensor attached or inside the AFM ?I just tested for new codes, now it is different??? Here's the lastest readings....

I'm going to take again so it's longer reading, brb, ty Satch!

I think this car is making it up as it goes...lol, it needs some TLC, still has the limp mode issue after driving 15-20 mins, engine light flashes when this occurs and it won't let you drive faster then 55-60, when you try to go faster it has a jerk like or hesitation movement, when the light isn't on the car drives fine

The AFM is the sensor. Secondly, the car sounds like it has OMP issues.

I see a 27, 8 and an 11 (or perhaps a 20). The 27 is for the OMP. If you have an OMP problem it will eventually damage the ECU so continued use of the car would not be advised. A problematic TPS could cause the error code/codes for the OMP so check that aspect of things.