1990 Mazda rx7 Convertible...please help
 

Hi, car is back on the road, after some battery issues, I have a few problems and I'm hoping I can address them here over time and maybe someone can help me. The Air/Smog pump is and was without a belt from the time I purchased the car, I have this annoying squeal everytime I change gears. I thought it was a belt, but come to find out it is from this pump. My question is where is the electrical connector located so I can dis-connect this or any other way to do so. Any suggestions is appreciated, thank you, Marylee

The air pump has no electrical connector so it is most likely internal.
That or your belt is crap and is not tight or worn.
Belt squeal is usually associated with glazed,worn,misaligned or loose belts.

If indeed it is the pump itself I would suggest putting up a WTB ad and see if you can get a used one from a fellow member.
I'd guess the pump used would run you about 30-40 bucks.
I tried taking an s4 pump apart and I tell ya they are one inventive piece of shit inside.

The OP said he didn't have a belt on the AP, so it can't be that squeeling if theres nothing turning it

is the squeel when your shifting gears? or letting up on the clutch? or small animal hiding under the car lol

I went with the word "WAS",as I assumed he put another belt on.

If not the main pulley is over-revving past the Belt tension and making the squeal.

You may want to delete your emissions and rats nest, as we do not have emissions testing down here.

The sound that you are hearing could be your alt or power steering pulley, check belt tensions.

You and your wording lol

..along with my use of Quotation marks and Capitals I have a tri-fecta!

it squeals when it revs past 3000rpm and gets worse after this, and it's not a kitten, I make sure they are not underneath when I start it up lol

That depends on the kitten lol

But definitely check your belt tensions, thats were i would start

your funny! I have had this squeal since buying the car quite awhile ago, I've had it checked by 4-5 "mechanics" to no avail, their explanations made no sense, I guess that's why I don't remember them! A mobile mechanic came here just this past Tuesday. He's the one who said it was the air pump (which has no belt attached) making this noise. He checked the larger belt and said it was too large and replaced it. Still have the noise. Anyway this is least of my problems now as the car went in "limp mode" 40-45 while driving 60 then stalled, was able to re-start, had a burning like odor from under hood? I tried doing the code check and I can't do it, the only idiot light that goes out after turning the key is the airbag, other lights are staying on (maybe I'm not doing it right IDK) I have spark plugs and wires coming, I'm wondering if the fuel filter may be the problem?

You have to ground the Orange wire in a Green check connector located near the lead coil. Then turn the key to on.

what orange wire? I read your suppose to use any wire or paper clip, stick in the small green connector (located on each side of the car) then ground other end by placing it either on the negative side of battery or the fender

ok orange wire is the green connector, finally I got a code, now to see what it means, thank you

It's putting out 2 codes I think, 1st one flashes one time, pause then 2 longer flashes, not sure what the first one means but I think the 2 long ones is for 20? MOP, and reading here it can cause the limp mode, I'm going to look for this under the hood, checking the grounding to it first??
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY!

I'd like to make sure of these codes, do I have to link video from youtube? as I seen someone else did

11 1 Long & 1 Short Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine)
10 1 Long Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM)

ok, thank you, on to do research on these....

alright, does this always mean I need to change the AFM or sensor? or could a blocked air filter cause both of these problems?? Reason I'm asking is my son cleaned the air filer (racing kind on car when I purchased it) he used a kit and used the included oil on it. I'm wondering if maybe it wasn't as clean as he thought and maybe the oil helped to clog it?? IDK I will take the filter off and drive it, to see if it's still losing power, but I have to wait as I don't want to get stranded down the road!

I took the air filter off to see if this is the problem, drove the car a few miles at 60-70 and it's working fine! yeah...I'm in the wrong line of work. Now off to get a new air filter and unplug the negative battery cable and re-test for the code again to see if it clears. Thanks to all of you for your help and advice, I'm sure I'll be back with more issues from time to time. I'll also post a photo of my car sometime. Excellent web site!

Hows' the cat?...flat?

lol, all stray kitties here and accounted for! So I re-checked the code and it is sending something, I'll go and take another video of it, brb

is this recent reading the #10 intake air thermosensor? I'll have to re-check once I get another air filter as well I'm thinking

Looks like one of the previous codes which was one long flash which is the AFM's intake air thermosensor. Pin 2K of the ECU (Green/Orange wire) should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and the air temp at 68 degrees F. If you get the same error code after placing a new air filter in then either the sensor has gone bad, which means a replacement AFM is needed or the Green wire at the AFM (possibly the ECU as well although very unlikely) has a poor connection.