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1990 Mazda rx7 Convertible...please help

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Old 07-14-14, 04:38 PM
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You could probably jumper the two wires in the e brake plug and will trick the car into thinking the e brake is engaged.
Old 07-14-14, 06:53 PM
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take the cover off the brake handle (Philips screw)..you will see a contact switch.
IF you hit that(or jumper it) and try the top it should come down.
Old 07-17-14, 11:10 AM
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thanks, I'll give it a try when the car gets here in a few. I'll hit it, not sure how to jump it if need be, darn I feel dumb! lol
Old 07-17-14, 12:43 PM
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Take a short piece of wire bare at both ends and bent to a shape resembling a U and stick one end into the back of the plug where one wire resides and do the same thing for the other wire. You're just bridging two wires together here.
Old 07-17-14, 01:03 PM
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ok, well I have the handle off and only see the adjusting bolt/screw, are you guys talking about the black looking switch piece under the carpet to the right of handle?
Old 07-17-14, 01:51 PM
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yea! alright I found the switch under the carpet and just tried pushing it in alittle and the top now works! thank you once again! such a cute car
Old 07-18-14, 12:47 PM
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I've looked at the service manual and the threads here for the following problem: I have water coming in from under dash and found somewhere that the drains may need cleaned out under the cowl, have this off now and I haven't a clue as to where these drains are, anyone know?
Old 07-18-14, 12:48 PM
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clutch going out again! w/e
Old 07-18-14, 01:37 PM
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Is there water after it rains or is the water source coming from somewhere else. There is an evaporator box related to the A/C system located under the dash on the passenger side closest to the transmission hump. There is a rubber hose coming from that which feeds through the firewall. This hose can become clogged (this happened on my car).
Old 07-18-14, 02:05 PM
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good question, since it has leaks in several places apparently. Going to check the hose your referring to now. Water will pour out sometimes a lot sometimes a couple cups towards the back part under dash passengers side but only when you make a turn if this makes any sense
Old 07-18-14, 04:32 PM
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rough afternoon trying to remove a lock nut! have the key but it didn't want to come off, my son finally got it off, need brakes pads. I check to see about the (ac) hose you refered to, but unless I'm wrong the water is coming from a higher spot. one problem at a time I know
Old 07-18-14, 04:56 PM
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You need to check the liquid to see if it smells of coolant or not. If it does then it's likely coming from the heater core.
Old 07-28-14, 10:56 AM
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still haven't addressed the leak, will work on that later, the most recent problem I'm having now is the car stalls if sitting still and ac is turned on, if not in gear and not giving it gas it will stall only if the ac is on and has been running 10-15 mins. When the ac is turned the rpms go down instead up. Will do more looking around one the threads here.
Old 07-28-14, 11:28 AM
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The rpm rises because the BAC is compensating for the A/C being on. When not on there is less load thus the BAC doesn't have to boost the rpm so it drops. You might try to reset the idle a bit higher to prevent the car from stalling.
Old 07-28-14, 12:08 PM
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I've already tried increasing the idle, but now when the ac is off it idles at 1500 rpm. no matter how high I increase the idle the cars wants to stall after 10-15 mins
Old 07-28-14, 12:44 PM
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Then perhaps you just have to find that sweet spot where it doesn't turn off. And you might want to check the ECU pin for the clutch switch and see that it is operating properly. On an S5 I think it should read close to 2 volts w/the clutch depressed and 12 w/o the clutch depressed.
Old 07-28-14, 01:02 PM
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I understand, if problem persists should I remove the BAC, check connectors etc for it, as I seen somewhere on here? thank you
Old 07-28-14, 02:23 PM
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If you place load on the car and the idle drops briefly then rebounds it is an indicator that the solenoid is working. If you place load on the car and unplug the unit and the idle drops and barely runs if not flat out die then that's another indicator that the solenoid is working. You could remove the item and try to clean out the gunk in it if you feel like it's worth the effort.
Old 07-29-14, 09:48 AM
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The car stalls completely after 10-15 mins with the AC running and with car sitting still or idle. I think I'll go ahead and try removing the BAC, checking the connector and whatever else I can clean for the heck of it, it's really not extremely important, but just a pain, as you need AC here in Florida. I'll have to order a BAC I suppose if the cleaning doesn't help. We will see. Sure wish I could get the headlights down too lol. On and on Amen, but I love a Challenge and this car is it!
Old 07-29-14, 09:51 AM
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P.S. I sure hope your not charging me by the hour!
Old 07-29-14, 10:51 AM
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Does the car die out after 15 minutes or so w/o the A/C on or just the A/C on?

You also do not want to have the idle above 1100 rpm as the timing will advance (change) above that level.

And make sure the air supply valve is working properly as it assists the BAC when the engine is under load. And it does not matter that the item was replaced. Just use the FSM and advanced search function to provide you w/the necessary info to check it.

Last edited by satch; 07-29-14 at 10:59 AM.
Old 07-29-14, 11:28 AM
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Actually, an S5 NA does not have the ASV (turbo does).
Old 07-29-14, 11:46 AM
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only stalls if the AC is on. Strange as the mechanic said he changed out the ASV (when the car was there getting the OMP installed) awhile ago. Unless I'm mistaken, but I know he said Air--valve, he did a compression test I guess and found it needed to be replaced, he actually used one from a car he had there at the shop, I was told
Old 07-29-14, 11:59 AM
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An NA would have an accelerated warmup system solenoid but not an ASV. And it's just a solenoid and a compression test to check it makes no sense at all.

And all of these cars have an Air control valve (ACV).

If you drove the car for a while w/o the A/C on and then turned the A/C on would the engine stall and die? And when the car does die is the car being driven straight or turning. Also, what does the voltage meter read right before it dies.

Last edited by satch; 07-29-14 at 12:23 PM.
Old 07-29-14, 12:25 PM
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"If you drove the car for a while w/o the A/C on and then turned the A/C on would the engine stall and die? " yes, but only when idle, in neutral, it's fine while driving


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