1989 N/A to turbo question.
1989 N/A to turbo question.
I have a 1989 Non-turbo Rx7 and have a blow engine.. I want to replace it with a turbo 13b of the same year , what would I need to purchase in order to do a complete engine swap?I am going to buy a crate jdm engine for 1400 with tranny ecu , wiringharness ect... just wondering what else i'll need.
Alright thanks , so basically just buy the engine and tranny with the complete ecu/harness and it should just bolt up to the stock rear end or do I need to upgrade that as well?I will just be replacing the stock wiring harness since the engine will come with a new one and I need the practice.
Alright thanks , so basically just buy the engine and tranny with the complete ecu/harness and it should just bolt up to the stock rear end or do I need to upgrade that as well?I will just be replacing the stock wiring harness since the engine will come with a new one and I need the practice.
It may not be blown but either way I want to get a complete crate engine/tranny and I can use the one in the car for backup and to learn from.Yeah I am a rotary nub cake ><; , from what I know the previous owner abused/did not do regular maintenance.
Alright thanks , so basically just buy the engine and tranny with the complete ecu/harness and it should just bolt up to the stock rear end or do I need to upgrade that as well?I will just be replacing the stock wiring harness since the engine will come with a new one and I need the practice.
Engine
Transmission & crossmember
MAP sensor
AFM
ECU
TII fuel pump or larger
Throttle cable
TII starter
TII clutch
TII slave cylinder
Turbo inlet duct (TID), or custom intake
Stock or aftermarket BOV
TII differential & half shafts (or keep the NA diff)
TII driveshaft (or custom mazdatrix TII->NA driveshaft if using NA diff)
And I don't think you realize what the harness that you get will be like. It will be for a RHD car, so it will be too short. It'll also have no wiper harness included, so you will have to unravel your NA harness to separate / reincorporate that. Then if you get that far, you'll have to extend every wire and then rewire most of the connections at the ECU and front harness (dash). Then you will need to separate out the alternator connections because they are routed differently on NA and turbo cars.
In comparison, to adapt the S5 NA engine management harness, you only have to swap the plug for the knock sensor & extend the TPS wires. That's it.
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Actually i got a related question. Im almost in the same position my 90 N/A motor runs good and has low mileage i was thinking about putting a turbo kit on it i just have one question. How do i run the oil lines to the turbo? Is there anyone thats done it before? Or anyone with some good suggestions.
Actually i got a related question. Im almost in the same position my 90 N/A motor runs good and has low mileage i was thinking about putting a turbo kit on it i just have one question. How do i run the oil lines to the turbo? Is there anyone thats done it before? Or anyone with some good suggestions.
Aaaroncake's guide: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo1.htm
This is a much larger project than people realize, and frequently results in blown engines when people half-*** it. The best suggestion for this build is to run a standalone ecu, as it will allow the most control to compensate for the 9.7:1 compression ratio. The high compression ratio of the S5 NA rotors means you need to be extremely careful in tuning timing & AFRs.
For most people, swapping in a turbo engine of the same series will be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
Questions on how to turbo a 6-port NA engine come up all the time and are listed in the FAQ at the top of this section.
Aaaroncake's guide: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo1.htm
This is a much larger project than people realize, and frequently results in blown engines when people half-*** it. The best suggestion for this build is to run a standalone ecu, as it will allow the most control to compensate for the 9.7:1 compression ratio. The high compression ratio of the S5 NA rotors means you need to be extremely careful in tuning timing & AFRs.
For most people, swapping in a turbo engine of the same series will be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
Aaaroncake's guide: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo1.htm
This is a much larger project than people realize, and frequently results in blown engines when people half-*** it. The best suggestion for this build is to run a standalone ecu, as it will allow the most control to compensate for the 9.7:1 compression ratio. The high compression ratio of the S5 NA rotors means you need to be extremely careful in tuning timing & AFRs.
For most people, swapping in a turbo engine of the same series will be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
Last edited by bthresher; Apr 1, 2009 at 12:40 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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