tbarrfow

i didnt think about comparing. i will do that tomorrow. the trailing is good it sparks a nice strong spark.

also if these check out to be wrong it would explain the hard/not starting and not idling correct.

wish i had someone knowledgeable local to me. not because i want someone to do it for me just because its easier if they can see exactly what its doing.

if i have time tomorrow i will try to make a good video of trying to start it.

tbarrfow

coil is definitely bad. tested everything else and the coil never worked.

gonna get one from a known running vehicle by the end of the week because hes having family issues.

also got my ground wire made at work and put on the bellhousing/firewall.

gonna work on little aesthetic things until i get the coil. then i will see where everything stands.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil is the trigger wire from the ECU. If this wire does not have the proper signal then the coil won't fire. To test the trigger wire you need to rotate the Main Pulley by rotating the alternator belt/pulley and w/key to on the G/Y wire will toggle back and forth from 5 volts to 0 volts over and over. As the pulley is rotated the voltage value will stay the same and then only briefly switch to the other value before returning back to the original value.

tbarrfow

will be testing this as soon as i get home from work today.

what if it fails this test?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The signal comes from the ECU so if the wire coming from the ECU is in good shape but there is no signal on this wire then the ECU could be at fault.

tbarrfow

ok so i have been poking around on here and i found something interesting.

when i bought the car that single female plug i told you about was grounded. thats why i was asking what it was for. this probably fried the coil didnt it?

also still gonna test the signal wire to make sure.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Might very well have.

tbarrfow

signal wire checks out. has a solid 5v signal then 0.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you checked for spark did you look for spark at the coil bore as this is the best way to help eliminate other possible causes. If the plug wires were removed ever so slightly from the coil bore where the plug wire boot is a fraction of an inch away from the bore and then look for spark at the coil bore w/key to start. If there is no sign of spark then either the coil/igniter is bad, the ground between the fender and the coil is weak or the connection of the two wire plug is poor.

tbarrfow

i used a plug wire that i knew was good and i made sure that it was fully seated. how else should i check?

satch

iTrader: (1)

My method of checking eliminates the wire and plug.

tbarrfow

how do i do your method? im slightly confused on it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You pull the plug boot off of the plastic coil bore and rest the boot of the spark plug wire a fraction of an inch from the coil bore thus creating a gap. The gap is where the spark should occur.

tbarrfow

ok and it will jump from the coil to the wire?

i will try that.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but the gap needs to be rather small.

tbarrfow

ok. i will just try it and see. im really starting to suspect the coil tho. i read someone said that grounding that wire will fry the coil so im thinking thats what happened. :/

tbarrfow

no spark. i made the gap as small as possible with me still able to see it. also made sure the ground studs were clean.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then it looks like you need a new coil.

tbarrfow

im getting a used but known good one today or tomorrow.

new on those is crazy expensive.

tbarrfow

ok got the coil got it on.

now i have spark. deflooded it dropped some oil in the spark plug holes. fired right up but i wasnt paying attention and the idle was way low and i didnt keep it running so it stalled out. but it ran for longer than it has been. definitely more than just a catch and die.

i will take some pics of the intake manifold and TB area bc i think something important is missing judging by my searching. also im sure that once its running im gonna have some vacuum leaks so im going to pick up some vacuum line tomorrow and some new plugs.

im almost starting to get concerned that i have messed the seals up on this motor flooding it out so often. :/ i hope not.

tbarrfow

update:

uploading a couple pics and a video right now.

got it to run. but it wont stay running below 4k. i have to hit it with a shot of starter fluid. crank hit the gas get it above 4k and keep it there or above or it dies out no saving it. idk what to check now.

im also uploading a couple of pics to show some things im concerned with (adjustment screws and such)

engine was warm in these bout to test the TPS since i have it at operating temp.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAZep...ature=youtu.be



http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973901694/http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973901694/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/79029913@N07/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973901390/http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973901390/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/79029913@N07/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/7119984241/http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/7119984241/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/79029913@N07/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973900724/http://www.flickr.com/photos/79029913@N07/6973900724/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/79029913@N07/, on Flickr

tbarrfow

Got it running. The primaries were dead. Swapped them with good injectors and she's run fine since.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear!

tbarrfow

yes.

and thank you greatly for the troubleshooting tips and helping me eliminate things.

now get to have some fun and play with it.