1987 RX7 2 Turbo II 13b swap
Update.
So this is where im at, Motor Fires ans idles but the timing is incorrect so i need to get it running to warm it up, but my trailing coil pack isnt fireing. I have tried a new coil igniter assembly, no dice. I have tried running an external ground wire in three different places, one of my power leads backed out of the connector on the firewall side that connects to the vcoil so i had to removbe the connector housing and connect them manually. also im getting power through the leads because my test light found current any suggestions on where to go from here
So this is where im at, Motor Fires ans idles but the timing is incorrect so i need to get it running to warm it up, but my trailing coil pack isnt fireing. I have tried a new coil igniter assembly, no dice. I have tried running an external ground wire in three different places, one of my power leads backed out of the connector on the firewall side that connects to the vcoil so i had to removbe the connector housing and connect them manually. also im getting power through the leads because my test light found current any suggestions on where to go from here
How are you grounding the coil specifically? It normally grounds via it being bolted to the fender. The Black wire on the coil that is not connected to anything is not a ground, but used for diagnostic purposes such as connecting up a tach. And the plug housing the B/Y wires needs to be used as doing otherwise will "probably" result in a poor connection that is not apt to do the job properly.
How are you grounding the coil specifically? It normally grounds via it being bolted to the fender. The Black wire on the coil that is not connected to anything is not a ground, but used for diagnostic purposes such as connecting up a tach. And the plug housing the B/Y wires needs to be used as doing otherwise will "probably" result in a poor connection that is not apt to do the job properly.
as for the connector its cracked the housing was coming off, any suggestions ?
I don't know, but the easiest thing to do would be to look around your car for a plug which is not used that is just like the one needed and use that. Just look throughout the car as opposed to just the engine area for a spare plug which will do the job.
I don't understand the relationship between the two items so I have no idea why that would prevent the coil from firing. W/the trailing coil disconnected the leading coil should start the car and run it just fine. If it runs fine then the CAS is likely set properly.
honestly im not sure what it is supposed to sound like. and even if the car starts it will randomly shut itself off at idle still. so are you saying my trailing coil is un needed?
The trailing coil ignites any leftover fuel not ignited by the leading coil. If you just want to run the car to check on certain operating aspects of the engine then the trailing coil is not essential. If your car dies while idling then you have more serious problems then the trailing coil.
Have you "ever" got around to testing the Water thermosensor or the TPS reading at the ECU as suggested. These are important aspects of your car running properly and ignoring them serves no purpose whatsoever.
Have you "ever" got around to testing the Water thermosensor or the TPS reading at the ECU as suggested. These are important aspects of your car running properly and ignoring them serves no purpose whatsoever.
The trailing coil ignites any leftover fuel not ignited by the leading coil. If you just want to run the car to check on certain operating aspects of the engine then the trailing coil is not essential. If your car dies while idling then you have more serious problems then the trailing coil.
Have you "ever" got around to testing the Water thermosensor or the TPS reading at the ECU as suggested. These are important aspects of your car running properly and ignoring them serves no purpose whatsoever.
Have you "ever" got around to testing the Water thermosensor or the TPS reading at the ECU as suggested. These are important aspects of your car running properly and ignoring them serves no purpose whatsoever.
The thermosensor has a Green plug located behind the water pump. Both sensors are measured w/key to on. The thermosensor is measured under two situations as already described. The TPS is measured w/the car fully warmed. Since your car dies you might not have the car warmed up to the proper temp to get an accurate reading so you could reach around the back of the throttle body and depress the throttle linkage as far down as it can go and that would simulate a fully warmed engine.
The thermosensor has a Green plug located behind the water pump. Both sensors are measured w/key to on. The thermosensor is measured under two situations as already described. The TPS is measured w/the car fully warmed. Since your car dies you might not have the car warmed up to the proper temp to get an accurate reading so you could reach around the back of the throttle body and depress the throttle linkage as far down as it can go and that would simulate a fully warmed engine.
and Im confused as to where exactly my thermo sender is, Is it located at the bottom of my aftermarket koyo radiator ? two pronged sensor ?
Satch I have not had the time to dive into the wiring yet but just a thought, my trailing coil pack is not firing, is it possibly due to my main relay? i replaced it with an Eckland Relay but could it be possible that it might not be functioning properly?
and Im confused as to where exactly my thermo sender is, Is it located at the bottom of my aftermarket koyo radiator ? two pronged sensor ?
and Im confused as to where exactly my thermo sender is, Is it located at the bottom of my aftermarket koyo radiator ? two pronged sensor ?
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Machupicchu
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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