deucy

(white) 1987 RX-7 (non-turbo):

Broad questions:

Turning the rotor manually ?

Where is the drain plug for the fuel tank ?

Can oil be drained successfully sitting on jack stands ?


Before I go to specific questions:

I am picking up the car in NE Iowa in a day or two, 10 miles south of Cresco and 21 miles SW of Decorah (a half hour drive). It has been sitting covered with a large tarp in a shed on a farm just short of 2 years. It has approx 115,000 miles and in nice shape. It mechanic rotary specialist in Washington state said two years ago just before driven to Iowa that it ran a strong engine result with his sophisticated engine analyst machine. (It was never run hard.) It was parked with oil change two months before. It is believed to have been parked with a half tank of gasoline (no ethanol in the gasoline). I will be borrowing whatever tools I can but believe they will be locally available. I am not a gear head, change my own Toyota oil and filter and that's about it. Not afraid to disassemble basics and reassemble.

I have been told by the mechanic to rotate the rotary in order to be lining up either of two timing marks with the fixed index mark Open the valve cover on the side of the intake manifold (that was pointed out to me) and see two chambers available to me and to squirt 2 oz of ATM "in either side;" then rotate the rotor twice, doing the same thing twice more. I intend to do just that.

Specifics:

1. I have seen on the net how the engine works in general. I assume I will be removing the cover where the air intake occurs. Not important, but is this area called anything more specific than an air intake ? Now remember please, this is not a turbo, and I am expected to see just one hole, right ? Let's say I only inject the 2 oz on the left side of something that divides the hole. If I am seeing 1 hole, is it being divided by an apex of the motor ? Why am I infusing the 2oz just in one side ? Again, let's say I am injecting on the left side. Correct me if I am wrong, but if I rotate to the same mark each of two more times, am I infusing the ATM to the exact same spot in the engine, and just left of the exact same apex of the rotor. I know I am lubricating and maybe I am asking more than is necessary, but is the rotor acting like a squeegee....lubricating all of the engine ? If you are answering me, first I want to express my appreciation. You are giving me a visualization of what is going on. Secondly, please answer if you can, at each spot above where there is a question mark.

2. I think this is an access issue: I am being advised that the location of first choice is to first attempt to rotate the rotor by moving the alternator belt clockwise so the timing wheel turns clockwise (being at the front end of the car and facing it); that if it is not tight enough to turn the rotor, then "tighten it !" Has anyone after tightening the belt been able to turn the rotor successfully ? Is there anything I need to be aware of ? Do I do this by placing one hand on each side of the belt and tugging such that it turns ? ..... or is there a nut I put a socket on (that 1 inch one I see at the center of the alternator ?) and turn ? Sorry for the ignorant questions; I just want to do it correctly.

3, I have been advised by a friend that because the car may have only a half of a tank of gasoline, it is advisable to drain it as much as possible and put lots of fresh gas in. Two years includes 8 seasonal shifts and lots of condensation opportunity. the pick up at the bottom of the tank may be very much just water. Is there an easily accessible drain plug under the tank, or forget it ? There is something on the net I see called a super siphon for under $ 10. Would this be the preferable way to go ? Or is the easiest (and cheapest) just to disconnect the fuel line before it enters the fuel filter ? Where exactly can I find that ? I had a first generation 1979 RX-7 and it was just below (almost) the rear bumper. Is disconnecting easy ? Can the drain by this disconnection manner occur successfully just be gravity ?

4. Although the oil was fairly fresh when parked two years ago, the same friend suggested changing it. The mechanic said it unnecessary. I am concerned because of possible sludge that may have accumulated, (Oil changes are reported as being religiously done and more frequent than called for in the owner's manual.) Doesn't the RX purposely consume oil ? (for lubricity ?). Wouldn't it be wise to avoid any prospect of sludge getting into the engine ? I will only be able to jack up the front, use jack stands, and drain from the oil pan. Will this be good enough ?

I am not a purist. I just want it to be done right. And I can accept those answers when appropriate, "Well, either way is ok."

I appreciate this site being here. I especially appreciate (as I have surveilled it) posters' contribution. Thank you for your patience with me and understanding me. I am and will continue to be grateful.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Ok..Yes the ENGINE can be turned by hand.(19mm nut on main pulley)
The Drain plug is located on the passenger side of the Fuel tank.
You can also access the fuel tank,Inside the car by removing the carpet,the silver plate with 4 phillips screws/driver's side and then removing the Fuel pump/sender assembly( to replace the Fuel "sock" that is on the Fuel pump.)

ATF is OK to use to lube the Internals,BUT it is going to smoke so Be aware that IF you get the car started you can have the Fire DEPT there quick..(seriously,guys have had the FD called!).
Well ventilated areas are recommended!.

NOW,if you Google how the engine works you will gain some info on what the internals are like and how it appears outside the "keg" ( piston guys call it a block).
Each Rotor has 2 spark plugs.Per rotor.
engine is built as a 2 rotor design,generally,unless it is a 20b or 26b.(which you and I can't afford,so don't think of it..yet!)
The ATF is going in those spark plug holes to access the internals and lube the apex seals on the Rotor,so it allows it to gain compression.
*called apex seals as the top of a triangle is called an apex.

ALL this and more info is at your disposal though and it is ON this Forum...it's more than I can explain,without taking six hours of typing.

I'd start writing a novel,but I will stop here.
I know what I know now by reading Threads on here to get where I am,so my suggestion is Grab a Coffee,and soak it in..it's a long ride!


HERE.read this,and also cruise that site as it is a treasure trove of info.
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/unstore.htm

deucy

Thank you much misterstyx69. I went to your link (Aaron's pulling out of storage info and wrote plenty of notes !) I also began, I guess, researching on this Club site, especially the 2nd generation which may be way too technically impractical for me at this point. I did use the search engine at this Club site to understand "leading" plug/s vs. trailing plug/s. (I have gone to generic rotary web sites and learned the purpose for 2 plugs per rotary, but never got an answer until now for that one or where to find each.) And thank you for location of drain plug at tank. I have read be prepared of it being rusted on ! I may end up doing the siphon thing. I will have one on hand.

Aaron's site bothered me when reading about ATF. I understand the there are two divisive camps on it. The long run effect of ATF bothers me. The car, I bet, will respond well to use of oil into the plug holes. My research in recent past explained protocols for that, so I will have to re-research. I have NEVER found an answer to the mechanic's suggestion of introducing lubricant (in his case ATF) into the valve connected at the intake manifold, or what "left" and "right" means at the valve hole when timing marks are lined up. Some of these questions I addressed in my initial post.

I am here now, seeing the car. It is hard to believe I can get a socket (19mm) on that nut to fit between it and the darn fan in the way ! I will try. But as a back up, I have been given to understand turning the belt around the alternator can work if tight enough. So my original questions #2 under SPECIFICS still stand.

Also, in spite of seeing sites explaining the intro of oil into plugs, they were not very precise in the protocol. I only recall "use the leading plug hole." How much oil injected ? When rotating, when do I put more in ? (Do I use the timing marks again ?)

deucy

Well just a minute after I posted asking about protocol for introducing oil into spark plug holes, I found what I hope will be good answers at this site by using the search engine with "turning engine over manually." I hope there are not many divisive camps with that issue, too ! (like the use of ATF as per Aaron).

Thanks misterstyx69....You were right: hopefully answers will be found on this most recent inquiry of mine at those search results. Can't read them now...Have to run, but looking forward to it.