EpicRC

So just the other day I managed to trade my clapped 1998 Subaru Impreza wagon (5spd manual swapped) and working sorta (had some squealing and odd noises but working nonetheless) for an interesting condition 1985 Rx7 GSL. The badges were removed and apparently they are just sticker style badges because there were no holes for them like my 1980 Canadian GXL Rx7, but it has rear disc brakes and I believe an LSD because the doughnuts make 2 tread marks, but I could be wrong. There is one kinda major dent in the side where it looks like the previous guy slid into a stop sign or something so I may attempt the plunger method of removing that later. The main issue I am having right now is that when I went to put more oil in it to drive home I noticed there was a milky residue on the bottom of the filler cap. So I wiped it off and put some oil in it. Then I looked again today and there was some more residue. With piston engines I believe this can end up being a blown headgasket, but since there aren't those with a 12a I didn't know what to think... I read on another forum that if your emissions equipment is removed then this is a likely cause, which may be the case since it has the rats nest delete. Then there was something about the needing PCV ventilation?? how do I go about fixing this/ venting it? If there is already a fourm on this plz point me that way haha

Another thing is about half of the engine bay wiring is disconnected, including the 2 from the bottom of the oil pan, however, none of the lights are going off on the dash. How can this be?? All the dash lights come on when in the key is in the position before the car starts, but then they all go away (except washer fluid light but it is bone dry so pretty sure it's legit) when it starts eventually. Also on the way home from getting it, it fuel-starved on the freeway and died a couple of times, so I would turn it off then it would start right back up again. SO I decided that was the fuel filter even tho it looked perfectly clean. Barely made it to a gas station only to find out they only have junk food and gas, so I took the filter out of the line and took a soda can and cut it and hose clamped it and then wrapped it in tape and then it worked for the rest of the drive home and once I was home the tape started leaking and I put a new filter in.

Still don't know if the omp pump is working so I will do more research, sounds like just premix the gas until sure that it works? Hopefully I can find some info on this stuff so my engine doesn't blow (probably will blow eventually but gonna try to keep it running as long as possible)


Repainted this weird color- seems to be a sort of purple brownish? The enkei wheels don't even have curb rash!

The tape around the can pretending to be a filter being taken off.

Luckily there were no cops when I had to drive 20mph on the shoulder till I got to the next exit with a gas station.

EpicRC

Just realizing this may be posted in the wrong thread category

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

that's ok, it got moved to the appropriate section.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

The filter you removed/changed is an extra that somebody added in (its not original). The real filter is under the car on driver's side, in front of the wheel. If you drive up on ramps it's easy to access and change. It's also clear(ish) plastic so you can see when it's got dirt in it. This is the first thing to check when getting fuel starvation issues.

Did you get this car from the last owner or from a used car lot? Always good to talk to last owner about mods/history/problems. I believe the oil level sensor in the pan closes the circuit and lights the idiot light when the level is low. If it's disconnected it can't close the circuit, thus no light. If you disconnect the oil lines to carb (careful - those rubber connectors are old) you should see oil dripping out when motor is running. Also I think you're on the right track with crankcase ventilation (lack there of) causing the snot under the oil cap. The stock system has a purge valve on the rats nest that vents the motor vapors. When you remove the nest you need to re-route the top line on oil tube to one of the ports on the carb base. I don't remember which one - the rat's nest removal guide tells you how. I have a Holley right now and I vent it to the air cleaner base.