New Floridian Member - 90' FC3S
01-17-17, 10:26 AM
#1
Certified RoTard
Thread Starter
New Floridian Member - 90' FC3S
Hi all! My name is Ben, I'm 18 and as of last Saturday I am the new owner of a 1990 RX7 GXL 13b N/A. I'm already in love with the car but it isn't in great condition. Beyond know how they work, rotories are a new science to me. I am just figuring out the cars quirks and it's abilities. I know very little about these cars and their history. I've read over the FAQ and have put together some of the things that I know is wrong with the car already.
I picked the car up in Jacksonville and drove 2-1/2 hrs home. Car ran flawlessly, needs and alignment bad but it got great mpg and ran buttery smooth. 70 mph at 3000rpm
Was told the car had the motor rebuilt and by the amount of zip ties on the car it's obvious he's telling the truth. Frame has 210xxx and an unknown amount on the motor.
First off, here are some pics of the car and some of the problems that are obvious...
(Doing this on a phone so idk if they'll show up)
Anyways, first off. After leaving the car in the driveway for a couple hours when I got home, I pulled it in the garage and noticed some oil stains on the ground.. ugh.
So I started poking my head around and notice tons of sludge on the front left wheel (photo evident) You could also see it dripping off the caliper and down the frame rails. Leads me to believe that the caliper or line is leaking. No big deal, easy fix and a buddy texted me and offered me a full set of Turbo II calipers. Schweet!!
Now onto the front of the car, while I was poking around I noticed the same sort of build up on the oil cooler and around the connections. That had me worried as when I bought the car the oil pressure gauge wasn't hooked up (at least that's what he said)
Either way the car didn't overheat, oil level stayed relatively the same and it ran great.
Maybe it's just residue from the brakes but idk.
And what I think is the final leak comes from the steering rack. I think lol. Tons of sludge on the drivers side boot and the oil on the ground doesn't look like motor oil. Looks a lot like brake fluid or power steering fluid. Smells like it too.
That's all the mechanical issues I can spot without being under the car so let move onto wiring.
I read about Mazda's CPU and ECU soldering dilemma and I'm not that worried. I have experience with soldering so it should be no trouble. Wiring on the other hand...kill me now. Luckily my dad was an avionics maintenance manager and knows this stuff like that back of his hand. Either way there's some pretty janky stuff going on lmao.
Right blinker works but left doesn't. Rear bulb works and is intact. Front one don't know how to get apart. Are they sealed in the housing? Also the blinker return cam thing or clockspring doesn't work. Yeah I know these don't have clocksprings but reference.
Headlights, one is highbeam and one is low beam. Click on the high beams and they switch sides... lol
Idiot panel works fine.
Climate control works but some bulbs are out.
Cigarette lighter doesn't exist anymore lol
Horn doesn't work (haven't checked to see if it's hooked up.
One major thing that concerns me is I found a CPU looking module in the storage bin behind the drivers seat. Wires snipped but connector is still there. (photo below. Will get pet number)
The electric mirror panel works some how, it's all kinds of friend from the transmission tunnel heat. There also two other switches in it that I have no idea what they do.
Cluster works but speedo is way off at highways speeds. I don't think it's the 3.5x speed thing though.
Panasonic double din works. Junk sound though
Car also came with an Apexi Rev/Speed meter. It's hooked up and works pretty good. Just have to calibrate it.
Interior wise, the dash is shot. Contemplating on going full custom dash but if I find a nice doner car I'll go that route.
Seats are dead
Electric seat belts are toast as well. Completely rusted in place and the wire is missing on drivers side. Good thing is that they're in the back position.
If I forgot anything I'll let you all know.
If you could help with some info or just some feedback that would be awesome!
-Ben
I picked the car up in Jacksonville and drove 2-1/2 hrs home. Car ran flawlessly, needs and alignment bad but it got great mpg and ran buttery smooth. 70 mph at 3000rpm
Was told the car had the motor rebuilt and by the amount of zip ties on the car it's obvious he's telling the truth. Frame has 210xxx and an unknown amount on the motor.
First off, here are some pics of the car and some of the problems that are obvious...
(Doing this on a phone so idk if they'll show up)
Anyways, first off. After leaving the car in the driveway for a couple hours when I got home, I pulled it in the garage and noticed some oil stains on the ground.. ugh.
So I started poking my head around and notice tons of sludge on the front left wheel (photo evident) You could also see it dripping off the caliper and down the frame rails. Leads me to believe that the caliper or line is leaking. No big deal, easy fix and a buddy texted me and offered me a full set of Turbo II calipers. Schweet!!
Now onto the front of the car, while I was poking around I noticed the same sort of build up on the oil cooler and around the connections. That had me worried as when I bought the car the oil pressure gauge wasn't hooked up (at least that's what he said)
Either way the car didn't overheat, oil level stayed relatively the same and it ran great.
Maybe it's just residue from the brakes but idk.
And what I think is the final leak comes from the steering rack. I think lol. Tons of sludge on the drivers side boot and the oil on the ground doesn't look like motor oil. Looks a lot like brake fluid or power steering fluid. Smells like it too.
That's all the mechanical issues I can spot without being under the car so let move onto wiring.
I read about Mazda's CPU and ECU soldering dilemma and I'm not that worried. I have experience with soldering so it should be no trouble. Wiring on the other hand...kill me now. Luckily my dad was an avionics maintenance manager and knows this stuff like that back of his hand. Either way there's some pretty janky stuff going on lmao.
Right blinker works but left doesn't. Rear bulb works and is intact. Front one don't know how to get apart. Are they sealed in the housing? Also the blinker return cam thing or clockspring doesn't work. Yeah I know these don't have clocksprings but reference.
Headlights, one is highbeam and one is low beam. Click on the high beams and they switch sides... lol
Idiot panel works fine.
Climate control works but some bulbs are out.
Cigarette lighter doesn't exist anymore lol
Horn doesn't work (haven't checked to see if it's hooked up.
One major thing that concerns me is I found a CPU looking module in the storage bin behind the drivers seat. Wires snipped but connector is still there. (photo below. Will get pet number)
The electric mirror panel works some how, it's all kinds of friend from the transmission tunnel heat. There also two other switches in it that I have no idea what they do.
Cluster works but speedo is way off at highways speeds. I don't think it's the 3.5x speed thing though.
Panasonic double din works. Junk sound though
Car also came with an Apexi Rev/Speed meter. It's hooked up and works pretty good. Just have to calibrate it.
Interior wise, the dash is shot. Contemplating on going full custom dash but if I find a nice doner car I'll go that route.
Seats are dead
Electric seat belts are toast as well. Completely rusted in place and the wire is missing on drivers side. Good thing is that they're in the back position.
If I forgot anything I'll let you all know.
If you could help with some info or just some feedback that would be awesome!
-Ben
Last edited by bwrx7; 01-17-17 at 10:56 AM.
01-17-17, 10:36 AM
#2
oil and "power steering" leaks are probably failing oil cooler lines
headlights flopping is a simple polarity mixup of your HID plugs to the chassis harness
inop turn signals just check the bulbs first then move onto the ECU
bulbs out on the climate control, bad solder joints internally
horn out is because he didn't install the steering wheel properly, which happens alot with aftermarket units
headlights flopping is a simple polarity mixup of your HID plugs to the chassis harness
inop turn signals just check the bulbs first then move onto the ECU
bulbs out on the climate control, bad solder joints internally
horn out is because he didn't install the steering wheel properly, which happens alot with aftermarket units
01-24-17, 07:46 AM
#7
Certified RoTard
Thread Starter
Great...
So I started the car last night and was about to pull away when my dad stopped me. That puddle on the floor I attached is gas... so I have a pretty bad leak. Gonna pin it on the FPD for now but I'm gonna get under it this week.