New Member RX-7 Technical Post your first technical questions here, in an easy flame free environment, before jumping into the main technical sections.

1985 LSD Swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-01-09, 03:18 PM
  #1  
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Iwantagofast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ID 1985 LSD Swap

So during the 4 hours I was at the junk yard I found some good stuff, at least I think.

1985 13B
-LSD
-Good looking Struts

How hard would it be to restore this LSD and swap in my 81? I would rather have someone who has done this before warn me before I get in over my head. And what I would be looking at, as far as costs, on bringing her back to life. I know that you wont be able to see the condition inside but what are common issues/problems? Here are some pics:

1985 LSD Swap-img00346.jpg

1985 LSD Swap-img00347.jpg

1985 LSD Swap-img00349.jpg

I know there are threads on this but I would just like to talk to someone who has done this upgrade a few times. Thanks
Old 02-02-09, 02:02 AM
  #2  
No distributor? No thanks

iTrader: (6)
 
Crit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts
That 85 LSD will not fit in the 81 as it is, because open axles have splines that reach further into the diff. LSD axles are cut a little shorter so that the tip of the splined end won't crash into the extra hardware in the LSD. Unfortunately, you can't take your 85 slightly-shorter axles into the 81 housing to make it all work, because you're moving axles from a large-bearing rear end to a small-bearing. What would keep you from swapping the whole axle? That would be much easier, and would give you rear discs.
Old 02-02-09, 09:25 AM
  #3  
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Iwantagofast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yeah that was the other option. So I would need the axel as well then. Is it a pretty easy swap? How would that help my car in regards to performance, aside from the rear discs. If I were to get that LSD what would you recommend replacing?
Old 02-02-09, 03:08 PM
  #4  
No distributor? No thanks

iTrader: (6)
 
Crit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 4 Posts
If the brakes are good and the axle doesn't leak, I wouldn't replace anything. Take care, though, to budget some time and money to fix leaks and problems, though they're pretty bulletproof.

The only things that might warrant replacing first thing would be the diff fluid, brake pads, and trailing link bushings. Replacing the rubber bushings in the axle links isn't usually necessary for the sake of getting a car on the road, and is fairly difficult and time consuming (you have to press, scrape, and/or burn the bushings out).

I'd leave the 4 trailing links and watts linkage (2 bars and connector above the diff) on the car. Disconnect the drum brake lines and handbrake lines, unbolt the driveshaft, and work it free. The handbrake cables have a union just inside the frame rail, so you can take the drum brake cables loose there, and join the disc brake cables at the same connector. You also might be able to take the sway bar loose from the axle and leave it in place to be reused, or you might need to take it off the car completely - it's just a matter of how much room you have and how flexible you feel like being.

Bolt your new axle to the watts linkage first, as it's somewhat out of the way, then connect your 4 trailing links (just put the nut on the threads of the bolt - no reason to tighten immediately). Once you've got the axle located under the car, connect your parking brake, hydraulic brake line, and bolt up the driveshaft.

It's a good idea to put the car on the ground before really tightening the four nuts onto the bolts for your trailing links. If you tighten them with the car in the air, the twisting of the bushing will contribute having two extra unregulated springs once the car's on the ground and the axle settles.

Also be careful of the springs and shocks. With the car in the air, you can take the shock loose from the old axle with one bolt, and the springs will come loose as the axle sags a little with the shocks removed.

It's really just 5 or 6 bolted connections, one hydraulic fitting, two cables and a driveshaft. Once you're done, MAKE SURE to completely bleed your brakes and don't trust those new rear discs the first time out. Take it slow around the neighborhood and check the brakes before you rely on them - who knows how long they've sat or if the seals are still good.

By the time you've replaced your rear end, you're no longer a noob, so pop into the 1st Gen section and start soaking up some info !
Old 02-02-09, 06:25 PM
  #5  
Lives on the Forum

 
Kentetsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids Michigan
Posts: 11,359
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Definitely swap in the whole rear end. Much easier that way. You'll love it too. No more wheel slip on hard corners and you'll be all set to drift like nobody's business.



.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
1987 T2
Build Threads
11
04-01-17 11:59 PM
FB_Frank85
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
6
09-06-15 11:29 AM



Quick Reply: 1985 LSD Swap



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:10 AM.