joelnewman

A day ago I posted a question and received a prompt answer from Aaron about a "whirring noise" in my RX-7 which he concluded is a noisy fuel pump.

Now I need to troubleshoot my RX-7's intermittent failure to start up (although I would like any actual repair work to be done by a mechanic ... I just don't have the knowledge). I have a 1980 RX-7 automatic (with air conditioner, if that matters). Battery is 11 months old. The car is only used about once or twice a week on short city trips. About 4 to 5 months ago I had a problem starting up, and it has occurred only 2 more times, but because of my limited driving pattern and the fact that over the last month I've only used the car once (not wanting to be stranded somewhere with a car full of frozen groceries), those 3 times don't tell me much.

That first time, I started the car without incident, drove less than 10 minutes to a gas station, brought the tank up to 50% full, then tried to restart the car. Nothing. Dead silence (as far as I can recall). After trying a few times, and fiddling with the transmission shifter (in case I wasn't properly in Park), it did start up strongly. But I thinking the transmission thing is a dead end, because it didn't help the next 2 times.

So if it's probably not the battery, it could be the ignition switch, corroded wiring between the battery and starter, faulty ground, or a bad starter. I'm trying to do as much of my own detective work as possible because I don't have a reliable/trustworthy mechanic (I'm in Montreal) and I'm concerned that if a mechanic doesn't actually test each of these systems properly, but just claims I have a bad starter and replaces it, I may discover the problem still exists when I'm stranded at some later time. In the pas my local Mazda dealer has been horribly incompetent (in fact, dangerously so).

Any thoughts or suggestions on how I should handle this? Anyone know a good mechanic in Montreal???

Thank you.

Regards,
Joel Newman

Kentetsu

Are you saying there is no attempt to even turn over? No clicking sound from the solenoid? No noise from the start?

If so, then the shift lockout might indeed be the issue. Could be as simple as a bad adjustment on the shift mechanism. Could also be a bad ignition switch.

I would wait until it did it again, then try moving the shifter around and see if it starts.



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joelnewman

"Are you saying there is no attempt to even turn over? No clicking sound from the solenoid? No noise from the start? If so, then the shift lockout might indeed be the issue. Could be as simple as a bad adjustment on the shift mechanism. Could also be a bad ignition switch."

Yes, no sounds at all, nothing to suggest there is an attempt to turn over. When it happens again, I'll be more methodical about testing the shift lever, as well as other efforts to diagnose this.

Also, I do now remember that I had the ignition switch replaced about 10 years ago, but at that time the engine was conking out while the car was in operation!

My research tells me I can test the ignition switch this way: Turn the key to the ON position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on the dash doesn't light up (and the battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If not certain, turn on headlights. When trying to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, the ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement. BUT I PRESUME THIS TEST CAN ONLY TAKE PLACE WHEN THE INTERMITTENT PROBLEM IS ACTUALLY OCCURRING, MAKING THIS A WAITING GAME.

My research on testing for a bad starter or bad connection (which I'd rather not do myself): Hold a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the starter (the smaller of the two wires connected to the starter). Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine. Have a helper turn the key and check the current. If current is getting to the starter but it isn't spinning, it needs replacement. If the starter spins freely when the key is turned, the problem lies elsewhere.

Do these testing methods sound accurate/effective?

Thank you!

Regards,
Joel Newman

High Speed Promotion

years ago i had a very similiar problem to yours in my 81. The way the car behave I would have thought I had a bad starter. Car would start fine for a while then an attempt to start would result in idiots light on but no cranking, no engine turn over. this turned out to be a problem with the igntion switch. I cleaned the switch the best i could with contact cleaner from an electronic store. The problem went away for many years. Now its back. But i currently don't drive that car. I can start it by using a battery charger with a boost start feature. the car starts right up even though the engine is blown.

joelnewman

Thank you, Fewgitive, your experience does seem to match mine. I need to confirm what the idiot lights do when this problem reoccurs.