Dori240sx

Hey guys new too the forum. Searched everywhere. No luck. 1986 GXL n/a 13b. Getting fuel not getting spark. Replaced crank angle sensor, checked ohms on leading coilpack and multimeter read 0.00 replacing coilpack tomorrow. Friend said if leading was bad trailing would still fire. Aftermarket exhaust. Not sure if its grounded. Going to check that too. I'm beginning to wonder if i Have a bad ground somewhere. Has anyone had this issue? If so please help me.

Tomorrow my plans are:
Replace battery terminals
Add ground from motor to frame
And check grounds on coilpacks.

If anyone has any ideas for this ubber RX7 noob please help!

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

yes trailing would still fire, but the engine wont run on trailing ign alone. maybe someone more familiar with the fc will chime in soon. hope it turns out to be an easy fix.

Dori240sx

Well this is ******* gay! I replaced the terminals, bought a new battery, and added a ground from the ground on the battery to the motor, and a ground from strut tower to the intake manifold. Everything was going great then all the sudden the coilpacks stopped sparking. I assumed the motor was flooded so I started the deflood process and halfway through I lost spark. Crank angle sensor is good. Getting power there. Im assuming my ignition relay may be bad. Ima test that tmrw. Does anyone know the power supply the relay is supposed to be putting out? I was told if the ignition relays bad it will cause the fuel pump and injectors to fire but not the coil packs. Any help would be great thanks!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the 4 wire plug from the main relay and jumper the Black/Green to Black/Yellow wire and jumper the White/Blue to the Black/White wire and this will bypass the relay completely. First though, check for constant voltage (no key necessary) on the Black/Green wire(powered by the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse in the engine fuse box) and the White/Blue wire(powered by the 30 amp EGI COMP fuse in the same fuse box). If both these wires have constant voltage then do the jumpering suggested and see how this plays out.

EDIT: The CAS "does not receive power" as it creates its own power when it spins. All wires connected to CAS are outgoing wires in that they "only" send signals and don't receive them.

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

Since you mentioned replacing coils, let me add this. Coils rarely go bad on FCs and from the best of my knowledge the igniters usually just go out entirely rather than giving intermittent problems. So, if you conclude that you have problems in either of these units double check before buying parts.

You can set the trailing ignition to fire the leading plugs and run without an ignition system for the trailing plugs and see if your problem goes away. If so, it would confirm that the problem is on the leading ignition components. If not, then not.
If you want to try, disconnect the 2 wire connector from the leading ignition so it definitely won't try to fire. Move the trailing plug wires to the corresponding leading plugs. Advance the timing via the CAS almost all the way. Check timing with light. Be careful if you drive like this as I am not sure if the advance curve for the trailing is exactly the same as the leading.