13b '91 Rx7 Won't idle
12-26-18, 01:07 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
13b '91 Rx7 Won't idle
So today I just got my car back into a good spot after a flooding incident by changing the oil. My car won't idle properly, but even giving a little gas keeps it running. I've taken note of several things that could be a factor, because there are multiple things to list.
My check engine light is on, the engine puffs some smoke out when I start it but only for a second, there is blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, not that profusely, and it disappears before the engine is up to temp. Like I said the engine runs fine, and can probably drive, but I needed some advice as to whether this means the coolant seals are leaking and or low compression, and whether a person with almost zero mechanical experience can rebuild a rotary engine. I really want to learn how to take care of this car, and if I have to rebuild it to keep it running, even get it rebuilt, I will happily do so.
My check engine light is on, the engine puffs some smoke out when I start it but only for a second, there is blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, not that profusely, and it disappears before the engine is up to temp. Like I said the engine runs fine, and can probably drive, but I needed some advice as to whether this means the coolant seals are leaking and or low compression, and whether a person with almost zero mechanical experience can rebuild a rotary engine. I really want to learn how to take care of this car, and if I have to rebuild it to keep it running, even get it rebuilt, I will happily do so.
12-26-18, 07:55 PM
#2
Welcome to the board. 
Well, you mentioned flooding, but you did not mention whether or not you've changed plugs since then. I would also check for vacuum leaks.
Coolant seals = white smoke (steam); a somewhat sweet smell to the exhaust; water coming out the chambers when you turn the engine by hand; an over-pressurized cooling system; exhaust gases in the coolant
Oil seals = blue smoke; having to add a quart more often to keep the level full; the accepted number for a rebuild is a quart within 500 miles
As far as if you can rebuild the engine is concerned, it really comes down to how mechanically inclined you are, what kind of tools you have, and how much time you have. If you have a mind and an eye for detail, then I don't see why you'd need to worry. Just watch some rebuild videos, get a copy of the FSM (Foxed.ca) and a Haynes Manual, then when the time comes, go slow. That said, you know yourself better than anyone, so if you really don't think you're up to it, then find someone with a good reputation. Rotary Resurrection is in your part of the country. He would be a good choice.
Well, you mentioned flooding, but you did not mention whether or not you've changed plugs since then. I would also check for vacuum leaks.
Coolant seals = white smoke (steam); a somewhat sweet smell to the exhaust; water coming out the chambers when you turn the engine by hand; an over-pressurized cooling system; exhaust gases in the coolant
Oil seals = blue smoke; having to add a quart more often to keep the level full; the accepted number for a rebuild is a quart within 500 miles
As far as if you can rebuild the engine is concerned, it really comes down to how mechanically inclined you are, what kind of tools you have, and how much time you have. If you have a mind and an eye for detail, then I don't see why you'd need to worry. Just watch some rebuild videos, get a copy of the FSM (Foxed.ca) and a Haynes Manual, then when the time comes, go slow. That said, you know yourself better than anyone, so if you really don't think you're up to it, then find someone with a good reputation. Rotary Resurrection is in your part of the country. He would be a good choice.
12-26-18, 08:19 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well I just changed the spark plugs right before this, I made sure to add 5 quarts of oil and when the engine is running its up to 60 psi again, and the dip stick is measuring right below full. I changed the plugs yesterday, taking them out again to try the atf tequnique to start it again. Now I know next time I'll be raising one side so the atf can pour into the housings more easily. Reguardless I had these problems start after changing my belts. The vacuum pump being adjusted might have loosened one of the hoses in the back... I also have a new maf sensor coming in soon. I just hope the check engine light is not a big deal, but I'm going to be looking at diagnostics for that before I drive it again.
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