Is the 12a or 13b better for my swap?
Is the 12a or 13b better for my swap?
We have an MG Midget that we have decided to swap a rotary into. The ultimate goal is getting a little better than 200hp. Since I'm new to rotaries, please feel free to educate me. Would we be better off starting with a 12a or 13b. Our budget is small. We plan to drive her on the street regularly, so reliability is paramount. Thanks, Jeff
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
13B.
It isn't straightforward to make 200HP from a NA 13B. On the cheap end you can get an intake manifold to mount up a Weber and with a nice exhaust, you should be close. But you will sacrifice all of the advantages of EFI, end up with less of a midrange and have to deal with carb tuning.
A little more expensive would be to set it up with a proper EFI system. You should be able to hit 200HP after some tuning and maintain all the drivability.
Or, just use a 13B turbo. Might be an issue fitting the plumbing for it though.
It isn't straightforward to make 200HP from a NA 13B. On the cheap end you can get an intake manifold to mount up a Weber and with a nice exhaust, you should be close. But you will sacrifice all of the advantages of EFI, end up with less of a midrange and have to deal with carb tuning.
A little more expensive would be to set it up with a proper EFI system. You should be able to hit 200HP after some tuning and maintain all the drivability.
Or, just use a 13B turbo. Might be an issue fitting the plumbing for it though.
13B.
It isn't straightforward to make 200HP from a NA 13B. On the cheap end you can get an intake manifold to mount up a Weber and with a nice exhaust, you should be close. But you will sacrifice all of the advantages of EFI, end up with less of a midrange and have to deal with carb tuning.
A little more expensive would be to set it up with a proper EFI system. You should be able to hit 200HP after some tuning and maintain all the drivability.
Or, just use a 13B turbo. Might be an issue fitting the plumbing for it though.
It isn't straightforward to make 200HP from a NA 13B. On the cheap end you can get an intake manifold to mount up a Weber and with a nice exhaust, you should be close. But you will sacrifice all of the advantages of EFI, end up with less of a midrange and have to deal with carb tuning.
A little more expensive would be to set it up with a proper EFI system. You should be able to hit 200HP after some tuning and maintain all the drivability.
Or, just use a 13B turbo. Might be an issue fitting the plumbing for it though.
.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
The cost of a rebuild "kit" can vary widely depending on what you require. The big ticket items are the oil o-ring carriers, which often don't nee to be replaced. If side seals spec out, it is more advisable to re-use the existing ones in a first rebuild as it means there won't be any mistakes made clearancing the new ones.
Sadly, rotary parts are low production compared to, say, rebuild kits for a Chevy 350. But you make up a lot of that money when you consider that in most cases there is no machining necessary during a rotary build.
Sadly, rotary parts are low production compared to, say, rebuild kits for a Chevy 350. But you make up a lot of that money when you consider that in most cases there is no machining necessary during a rotary build.
The cost of a rebuild "kit" can vary widely depending on what you require. The big ticket items are the oil o-ring carriers, which often don't nee to be replaced. If side seals spec out, it is more advisable to re-use the existing ones in a first rebuild as it means there won't be any mistakes made clearancing the new ones.
Sadly, rotary parts are low production compared to, say, rebuild kits for a Chevy 350. But you make up a lot of that money when you consider that in most cases there is no machining necessary during a rotary build.
Sadly, rotary parts are low production compared to, say, rebuild kits for a Chevy 350. But you make up a lot of that money when you consider that in most cases there is no machining necessary during a rotary build.
i would run a streetport 12A, but run a IDF weber or IDA weber carb.
manageable for the street, even if you run a real monster street port.
And you'll make good power, even over 200hp.
or a 13b streetport would be good.
just going to sacrifice quickness of revs, and maybe not going to be able to rev quite as hii.
manageable for the street, even if you run a real monster street port.
And you'll make good power, even over 200hp.
or a 13b streetport would be good.
just going to sacrifice quickness of revs, and maybe not going to be able to rev quite as hii.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
You'll notice I am in London as well. 
Far as I know, 12A gasket sets are still available from the dealer. Call up Probart Mazda, tell them I sent you, and ask. You can get the part number from the parts catalog here:
http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com...s/rx7pubs.html
If they can't get it (I have not bought a 12A gasket set in a long time) then Atkins Rotary can ship you one. Tell Dan that I sent you when you order (not that I think it would matter or anything).
If you just want to open it up, a gasket set is all you need. But there is still a considerable amount of labor in just opening it up. Many hours of cleaning, mostly.

Far as I know, 12A gasket sets are still available from the dealer. Call up Probart Mazda, tell them I sent you, and ask. You can get the part number from the parts catalog here:
http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com...s/rx7pubs.html
If they can't get it (I have not bought a 12A gasket set in a long time) then Atkins Rotary can ship you one. Tell Dan that I sent you when you order (not that I think it would matter or anything).
If you just want to open it up, a gasket set is all you need. But there is still a considerable amount of labor in just opening it up. Many hours of cleaning, mostly.
Trending Topics
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I hope that was a joke, because a wire wheel on a bench grinder is NOT the way to clean a rotor. Maybe the cast face, but that's about it. Just a bit of a soak in carb cleaner will remove the carbon. Stubborn deposits can be removed with a Scotch Brite pad or razor blade.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sleepydogz
Old School and Other Rotary
8
Oct 4, 2015 03:46 PM
Machupicchu
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
8
Aug 17, 2015 08:27 PM





