I am new to these forums and am considering a 93-95 rx7. However I want to put a V-8 or a V-6 from a buick grand national in it. Any opinions? Can someone write a good website for an engine swap kit. I read somewhere about a cobra irs for a rearend swap or is the stock rearend good enough?

 

www.v8rx7forum.com

 

Hinsonsupercars.com

 

engineswaps.com

 

It's already been posted but www.v8rx7forum.com has all the info you need and more.

A stock FD IRS will be strong enough to handle a stock-powered GN motor or an F-body motor. Depending on how you drive, they'll handle more power than that as well. The S4 clutch-type differential can be swapped in, and they're stronger than the FD differential. You cna find details on all of this on the above mentioned website.

Welcome to the dark side

 

i wouldnt even swap out the motor it has now. it came with a rotary it should keep a rotary. if your going to do anything build the motor it has or go big and get a 3 rotor

 

so go big and get an even heavier motor?

Your motor came na so it should stay na.

 

now that you have your lame LS1 info leave !

 

Now that you've made your lame comment commit suicide !



Why not a 6 rotor? Since you're ruining the car's 50/50 weight distribution anyway, what the hell, let's get some real torque under the hood!

 

Why are you even in the NE section and who are you to determine who should be allowed on a public forum. Last time I checked this was still rx7club.com and not
rx7clubthathasdonenomodificationstotheircarwhatsoe ver.com
I seem to even remember that we have an engine swap sub-forum on here. Wierd huh?

BTW- how is the kool-aid these days? Still trying to get to that alien spaceship hovering in the sky?

Because the rotary is the soul of the car. So, more rotors = more soul. And, if you "Remember the Titans" you have to have "Soul Power"

Lets just end this thread now before it turns into another of the 15 million rotary vs. piston debates on here.

 

I am sorry I am causing a unwelcomed debate, however I love the car but I do not want a motor that is going to cause me headaches down the line. I want a great looking decently powered car and for me the 93-95 rx7 is it. My only quandry is what powerplant I am going to end up with. I don't care what motor I use but it has to meet certain standards; ie(decent horsepower, gas mileage, and reliability.) I am wondering where I could find a good donor car. any info is good info so thanks for the input.

 

This forum never fails to entertain me

 

I look at it like this. Rotary Engines are VERY touchy engines. Built right they WILL last, but more important than the build, is the tune. Reliability mods have to be taken care of FIRST and they have to be taken care of RIGHT. Running a Rotary is something you have to dive into with a TON of attention and detail. Otherwise things go wrong. Personally, i bought an FD without knowing a damn thing about Rotary's. that was a HUGE mistake. Engine is out for a rebuild after my owning the car for less than 1k miles. I blew the coolant seals because i didnt take care of owning it.

But i also have to look at the V8 swaps and say this much, they do require FAR less immediate attention to detail as well they produce a great deal of power without extensive tuning. You could run a stock LS1 and pretty well keep up with a light tune 13B. And the LS1 only weighs an extra 15 pounds over the 13B-REW, or atleast so ive been told. So there isnt a huge weight gain.

Personally tho? Im a rotary guy, and always will be. Its not that i dont appreciate the power and ease of use that the LS blocks provide, but im a purist. And by my OPINION, the Rotary should stay where the rotary was meant to be. When the head of the RX-7 redesign project was attacking the engine, he was told he could use any engine he wanted to use, rotary or not. But he choose to stick to the Rotary because of the spirit of the car that it was in. It was designed to use one and always had been, and thus it remained rotary.

 

How difficult is it to make a reliable efficient rotory?

 

I would say, not hard. But then, it depends on the person.

Here's the thing, Turbocharging a rotary has its draw backs, plain and simple, and while you get superb power, you also get an engine that likes to explode. So keeping up with the way the turbo system works is EXTREMELY important, boost spike is a killer in our cars. A quick spike to 15 psi on a fuel system only set to run to 12 can have devestating concequences. Spike is the perp, running lean is the reason and detonation is the result. So you have to be careful with the tuning of the car.

Heat, heat is also a major factor in our cars, because they're rotary, and there for, obviously, dont have pistons or anything like that, cooling is very.. minimal. Because you dont have a cylinder around which you can run coolant passeges save for the outside of the block on a rotary, they run hot, plain and simple, there just isnt enough cooling power inside the block, THUS, oil coolers are a very good idea. Oil is also use to cool the rotary engine, because it runs inside the eccentric shaft and there for, the more you can cool the oil, the better it will cool the engine. So, dual oil coolers, and an upgraded radiator are a must for our cars, especially if you intend to run high boost levels. When touching extremely high boost numbers its a good idea to open up the coolant passages around the outside of the block.

Another issue is engine bay heat. Rotary + twin turbos = LOTS OF HEAT. heat cooks things, primarily the sequential twin turbo rats nest which is prone to a lot of failures. While it is possible to make the sequential system work perfectly, a lot of people just dont have the patience for it. A vented hood can never hurt, it allows that hot air to drain into the air, good neh?

Second, intake air, Cold Air is you friend, no matter what car you running. 90% of the aftermarket intake systems DONT place the intakes far enough forward and thus they're more likely to intake hot engine bay air, which isnt good either. There are some solutions, ducting is a great help. Also there is a kit that blocks off the intakes from the rest of the engine bay. Some light kits, that replace the stock pop ups, have an air duct built right into the lens that forces air to flow right to the intakes. If you prefer the pop ups, theres a light cover that when closed, channels air into the intakes as well.

Fuel, Fuel delivery is VERY important, but then its important in any car. The stock system has its limitations as all systems do. A new fuel pump is always a good idea. more fuel, will keep the engine from starving, running lean and leading to detonation. The injectors also have limitations, but as a basic necessity, its always good to have them flow tested and balanced. more fuel always is better. Upgraded injectors are a must when reaching towards higher horsepower numbers. The stock fuel rails seem to be adequate even with upgraded injectors but again, they have their limitations as well.

Again, all of this is based upon, what you intend to do with you car.

 

It depends on the owner 10x more than the engine itself. It requires patience and attention to detail. You will want to replace anything that looks to be wearing out. The downfall of many rotary owners is that you need to treat it more like a race car and less like a Honda. You wouldn't buy a 15 year old race car and take it immediately to the track would you?

To keep your rotary reliable:
1- identify key components I the system and make sure all the parts are in good condition and up to date.
2- never skimp on parts, fluids or timelines. Using subpar materials will get you worse than subpar results.
3- never believe everything you hear. This applies as much to mechanics as this forum. Expect half the stuff you hear to be nonsensical BS that was created by people who want to sound smart. Always double check what you hear and find the truth out for yourself
4- find people you trust. This applies to a shop and on here. Learn who has real world knowledge and who is just spouting crap rhetoric that they heard somewhere from someone. There are a lot of great resources on this site but you have to shovel through a lot of **** to get those gems of truth.

Finally (and the most important part), make all the decisions yourself and for you. Don't let retards pressure you into going a certain route with your car because they believe it is best for you.

Fin

 

remeber this ANY engine can cause headaches down the line if you dont no what you are doing.....my friend killed two piston cars in a matter of 2 days...another friend of mine enjoys sending pistons through heads....anything can happen, timing can jump, apex seals break.....NO engine is prone to failure.

Like whats been said before these engines are reliable IF your not one of those lazy people that puts off doing preventive maintenance, dont let the engine warm up, etc...

as to power....lets put it this way....ever seen those redline videos from florida? with all those supras with 2JZ engines and what not? those things make massive power...point is, ive heard people on this forum call them slow...get what im saying?

as to gas mileage....you can only have one, its either power or gas....it doesnt matter what engine it is, LS series, rotor, anything. the more power you have the worse you do on gas....not saying 13b's are bad on it...from what ive seen we do about the same as a 6 cylinder around 18-24 or so....other members have done even better.....

hondas do good on gas

as to your apology..by reading past threads it should have been understood that you would bring the war to this thread.....the forum has been and will always be divided in half.

The main point is ITS YOUR CAR so do what you want with it.

but please for the sake of the whole community....if the engine is functional, try it before you replace it. it wont kill you, and for all you know you might actually like it.

AND PLEASE!!!!! sell the engine, dont junk it....there is always someone in need for a rotary engine...there not as easy to find as pistons are

 

This thread is high larious.

I never realized everyone in the northeast was suck a boner...

 

Come again?



I have a solid running (albeit slow) N/A rotary in my car right now. I'm either going to put it up for sale soon or swap it into something else, like a go-kart or golf cart or something else arbitrary. Maybe I'll build an airplane for it!

 

no it doesnt matter about turbo or not, all im sayin is keep the rotary in the 7

 

You need freinds with higher IQ's

Its not about being just lazy. You need to treat the car much better than an average daily driver. There are alot of little hoses, wires and lines that need to be kept up on.

See my last post about the amount of BS floating around this forum. Here is more pointless information served up from someone who heard something from someone claiming to do something.

Yet again, info without proof. I averaged around 12-14 mpg with a decent sized single turbo. I documented this on many occassions. With the LS motor I am doing slightly better with about a 4-6mpg bump on average. This isnt a remarkable improvement but there is a diference. A turbo rotary is nowhere near the gas mileage of a good 6 cylinder. Please have info before you speak.

Thats because half of this forum will always be morons (piston and rotary alike).

Smartest thing posted


Drink much? *hiccup*

Why, because thats what God dictates should happen?

 

ok so he wants to put a v8 in a rx7, but would you put a rotary in a mustang or camaro. most likely not.

 

They have put rotaries in AE86 carollas, miatas, and a host of other cars. Mustang and Camaro owners routinely swap in engines that were not origionally installed in their cars. I am sure that if there were some mustang or camaro owners that thought that their cars would benefit from a rotary engine, they would install it.

Honestly, are you bringing this up because you have some real world data that proves that the rotary can outperform the LS1 or other powerplants in the same chassis or are you doing it because you have this overwhelming need to belong to this exclusive club and cant stand the thought that someone might not hold the holy engine in the same value as you do? I truely believe that you would be one of the poor soul goose stepping your way to racial purity just because a little man with a funny mustache said that it is the way things must be and you are better than everyone else because of it.

 

no i just feel that if a car comes with a rotary it should stay rotary, if a car came v style it should stay that way. im not saying the rotary is holy at alland i dont have prrof it is better then a ls1, just make a beast with a set foundation.

 

So you're saying that you that just because the car was slow the way it was built, it should remain slow. Right? If you're not saying that, then explain exactly how I'm going to get my N/A rotary car into the 11's reliably using a 2-rotor engine (or a 3 or 4 rotor). I'd love to hear it, and I'm sure a lot of other rotary owners would as well.