santacrs

I checked out the list of mechanics thread. Huge list not sure which to take it to. I've been PFS so far. ok service but way too far. Called a few places. Some only deal in FC's or stock FD's. My FD has quite a few mods. Anyone have any experiences in any mechanics in the annapolis, baltimore,washington area?

Heres some info on the current problem if anyone has any ideas.

When its hot out engine idles too low and sometime stops engine. If I have the AC on it goes to low and shuts off almost every time I come out of gear.

Its very strange not sure why the outside weather plays a role in when this happens. Althrough I'm leaning towards a vaccum leak since when engine is hot it gets worse. Maybe there a hole that expands with heats.

I have a Apex air fuel controler. Haven't figured it out yet. Came with the car. Can that be the cause or possibly resolve it.

Another thing is I noticed the rpm's go up and down continuesly by 800 rpms or so when idling below 2000 rpms, but this happends only sometimes .

I don't know. PFS is nearest trusted mechanic and I'd rather not have to drive an hour and probably leave it there for days.

Is there some way I can just adjust the idle rpms with the fuel controller or otherwise?

Thanks

Seb

santacrs

bump

santacrs

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spot_skater

Make sure your TPS is set, and I know for FC's the BAC valve can also **** up, too.

Not sure with FD's, but hopefully it might help you out a little.

dirttracker64

I am having the same problem with my fc. I drove it on a real hot day and as soon as i got off the highway and had to start stoping at lights and stuff it would die. Also had the same idle problem. Come to find out my tps is junk but i have also been told to check the water thermosensor because that would cause the stalling problem when its real hot out. Again this is with my fc but im sure some of it applies.

ViperDude152

For FCs if your engine stalls when its hot, make sure your engine temp is where it should be. The thermowax on the back of the throttle body which controls cold start from around 2500 down to 750. When the engine temp raises to high, meaning your engine is getting close to overheating, our yout fast idle cam screw is out of adjustment, the small piston from the thermowax will push down on the throttle linkage causing the primary plate to close even more which will then cause the engine to idle lower and lower till it will just stall.

Also make sure your fuel pressure is not spiking. I have noticed on my FC a couple years ago when it got hot or driving around for a while, my fuel pressure would spike to its max causing my engine to run rich and die then flood next time I tried to start it. This was cause be the ECU not suppling vacuum to the stock FPR. After figuring this out I connected the FPR directly to the intake manifold and the problem went away. The FPR usually connects to an electronic 3 way solenoid.

Im sure if your water thermo sensor was bad that it could cause your engine to run very rich when it gets hot.

I have a Series 2 SAFC and I have my idle around 800 and have alot of fuel removed to help keep it stable. You could try removing fuel at 800 rpm which is the lowest the AFC will go and see if it will idle better. Don't be affriad of blowing the motor. Your only at idle. The most it will do is miss or stall if to much fuel is removed.

This would most likley be a TPS issue. Well, on FCs.

Sorry I have no direct FD information.