Got a downpipe in my fuel tank sale thread.

 

Instead of "big jdm" injectors (which are poory bored out stock injectors 9 times out of 10) you may want to consider buying a new set of ID injectors.

Sometimes it's worth it to spend more up front for quality..

 

+1 to this, it hurts but will be better in the long run

 

anyone else going to DGRR from MD or just me?

 

Wish I can go but don't have the days off from work this year. So mad I can't go.

 

Well, you're staying in my cabin. So I guess I'm going too!

 

I'm going, coming down from Elkton, MD.

 

Hey guys. I've been a stalker on these forums for yeaaaars. But it's come time to buy my first FD. One question though. Should I buy a stock one. Or a modified one. I would usually say stock myself. But with all the problems that the stock ones had would I be better off buying a modified one that has all the reliability upgrades already. There's a black one not far from MD that has a vmount and basic reliability mods. Then there's a super clean completely stock red one with 90k miles. Very well maintained about the same distance away. And they're both asking 15k. Thought it would be best to ask you guys since you're more familiar with the headaches of ownership than me.

 

It's a 23+ year old vehicle..... What "all problems" do you mean? It basically comes down to time and effort you put into it.

 

A couple observations I have:

1) it will likely be INCREDIBLY difficult to find a completely stock FD (meaning one that still has the factory pre-cat, original AST, and original Radiator). Most of the "stock" cars will probably have already replaced these components, which would account for your basic reliability mods.

2) Additional mods don't always equate to additional quality. Many owners are prone to cutting corners when they "upgrade" their cars, even so they will want to pass the cost of mods on to the next owner. PERSONALLY, I would only pay extra for a "modified" car if the mods were wholly completed by a reputable individual or shop that I KNOW spent the extra time and attention to detail in order to insure they were done correctly. (A partially modified car from a non-verified source is likely to cause more headache than it's worth imo)

Personally I would go with the stock or lightly modified car, as it is more likely to hold its value (if you're looking to sell it again later on), and you're less likely to need to fix another persons mistakes in order for it to run well. Also, it's good to know about the rebuild history of each vehicle.

 

I just asked the guy with the stock fd and he said he's the second owner but the only part he's had to replace was one of the stock turbos. Still running on stock coolant system and exhaust and seals. He's 55 and says he only drives it on Sunday's so I don't think he would really lie about it either. Seems like a very trustworthy guy. So yeah, completely stock all original red 93 with the leather seats and sunroof package. Minus the replaced turbo. 90k miles. Asking 15k. I'm thinking it's probably the best buy I'll be able to find for 15k.

 

Ah, that's a Touring model. Has it ever been rebuilt? I would check to see what the motors compression is, 23 years and 90k without a rebuild could add another $5k to your cost shortly down the road.

 

Nope never been rebuilt. And I was thinking that too. But if the compression is still in spec then I think it's quite a find. Do you think it's worth 15k?

 

Well, I spent $14k on mine (a 1994 VR Touring model) almost 10 years ago, it only had a DP, high-flow cat, and shitty looking paint.

I'd say it's fair, since you could reasonably expect to spend almost twice that for a similar car but with lower than half that mileage. Just get comfy with the idea of potentially forking out another $5k for a rebuild in the future (or be ready to do it yourself, if you're so inclined ^_^).

Also, I would ask when, if ever, the vacuum hoses were replaced, and verify that the car has a solid 10-8-10 boost pattern. The engine bays get HOT!!! More so with the stock pre-cat, and that makes stuff get brittle and break.

 

Since the engines are shot at 100k miles you have a year until buying a rebuilt engine.

There's an electrical harness that gets cooked. Also, a fuel gasket somewhere that gets cooked and leaks.

I'd suggest asking Speed1 Allentown what it would cost to rebuild it. Also, that clunking sound from the rear end is the bushings you need to replace. Rubber parts that are decades old aren't in good shape.

 

I sold my last couple of 7's back in 2008. Then last year in 2015 I got back into again with a low-mile FD and then more recently also picked up a JDM FC. I'm not living in Marlyand anymore but I might be in the area this weekend.

I'm curious if Crazy Rays in Mt. Airy still occasionally has any RX7s in stock like they did 8 years ago. Thoughts?

 

They sometimes get FCs in. Crazy Rays was bought by a company called LKQ, so now they keep track of the cars as they come in! You can check their website to see if they have any in before you make the trek.

Vehicle Inventory, Auto Parts | LKQ Pick Your Part | LKQ Pick Your Part - Mount Airy

Back in the day my boys and I would make a day of just riding around to each location in MD and walking the aisles. No need to do that anymore with the inventory database!

 

Looks like they have a gold 1988!

 

Hey guys, just wanted to say HI!
Still driving my 99 Vert daily - looks like meetups have disappeared in the Baltimore area?

 

Emory - PM'ed you. Billybiceps

 

Fall cruise is up -> https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-foru...016-a-1106229/

 

im over in the sandbox on deployment. hope to see some of you at the spring cruise or dgrr

 

Saw a nice Montego Blue FD Monday night on 495 inner loop + 270 north. He exited around Gaithersburg or Rockville. The tires looked wider than stock. Would have liked to ask what the tire/rims were.

 

Was it with the seibon hood, seen the guy at a small meet before.

 

I didn't notice anything, it was nighttime and I was behind him most of the time.