what u think ill make????
01-23-10, 04:51 PM
#1
what u think ill make????
ok want 2 do a rebuild nice big reliable street port exhaust port. ok my mods are throttle body mod. aluminum intake. no black plastic intake crap. port sleeves removed,vdi open all the time. solid motor/tranny/diff mounts. light weight flywheel. act 6puck unsprung clutch. racing beat street collector header to silencer to racing beat duals. walbro fuel pump. msd ignition amplifier. megan coilovers. and lots of suspension stuff. running stock s5 ecu wit injectors. what u think ill put down power wise?? i was thinking 190 ish? or should i use my apexi pfc. and do some fine tunning?
01-23-10, 05:56 PM
#3
^+1
you have done more to hurt performance than help, The Aux ports and VDI is there from Mazda to help with low end power. You removed this low end, put a low inertia flywheel that hurts stop and go and low load driving, A clutch that is WAY overkill and hurts stop and go and low speed/ low load shifting, a fuel pump thats bigger than the stock one that will outflow your needs all to run it with the stock crap tune ECU?
On a more positive note, When I was using a stock 6port S4 block with working Aux ports and VDI with stock exhaust manifold, stock plastic air hose, air box and ECU I put down ~190 rwhp. But I did a lot still to get it to that point, port matching intake, ignition box, under drive pulleys, etc. but i did a lot of research on what effect the changes i was going to make had on the system.
The question here is not how much you will make, but how much is there that you can actually use and how easy you can use it......
you have done more to hurt performance than help, The Aux ports and VDI is there from Mazda to help with low end power. You removed this low end, put a low inertia flywheel that hurts stop and go and low load driving, A clutch that is WAY overkill and hurts stop and go and low speed/ low load shifting, a fuel pump thats bigger than the stock one that will outflow your needs all to run it with the stock crap tune ECU?
On a more positive note, When I was using a stock 6port S4 block with working Aux ports and VDI with stock exhaust manifold, stock plastic air hose, air box and ECU I put down ~190 rwhp. But I did a lot still to get it to that point, port matching intake, ignition box, under drive pulleys, etc. but i did a lot of research on what effect the changes i was going to make had on the system.
The question here is not how much you will make, but how much is there that you can actually use and how easy you can use it......
01-23-10, 11:34 PM
#4
well might switch to sprung 6 puck. oh and have racing beat main crank pully. but ive had these settings for bout 4 years now with a act street strip clutch which is done. and car moves fast on stock motor ports. only thing was a gtspec apexi exhaust. which bit the dust a few weeks ago. just got the racing beat a week ago. the light weight fly wheel helps on the revs so much. and solid mounts transfers all the power to the rear. no loss threw old rubber bushings. im more curious on leaving the stock ecu setup. but if i must ill use my pfc.
01-24-10, 12:25 AM
#5
I had something very similar to ur set up on my s5 and my car was fast. When everything is working properly, ur low end will be ok, but not strong. I don't know how much hp I was making, but I beat some pretty respectable cars on the highway. My guess is around 190.
01-24-10, 09:34 AM
#6
yes that is true. my low end sucked. and the apexi single gtspec didnt help either on that. but top end was amazing. and i kept up with and beat some pretty bad cars. but my low end has improved dramatically since i put the racing beat system on. so thats why im thinking 190 ish. ill see what my engine guy thinks. and this car isnt driven daily. its only for racing or hard street driving.
01-24-10, 12:00 PM
#7
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stock ecu = 141.9hp no matter what you do to it.
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01-24-10, 05:10 PM
#10
If its not a DD i would get a 4port and go with a more aggressive port job and learn how to set up your car. Bolt on parts will never make a truly fast can unless you go turbo, but then still the efficiency of bolt on parts with a turbo still sucks and more power with the same setup can be had if you set it up right. I have said this in a LOT of posts, PEAK POWER WILL NOT MAKE YOUR CAR FAST average power will and your set up is for peak power.
J9fd3s is no dummy, from my guess is that he is saying a stock NA is not fast and any set up with stock ECU will again not be fast. But i may be reading too much into it and will not put words in his mouth. On just a bone stock FC the exhaust and tune of the ECU are the two things that hold it back, When you start modifying the car the stock tune quickly becomes the number one power killer.
My advice to you is to do more research, The whole car is a system and every change effect every other part. If you swap out your intake you have also changed the exhaust tuning, You change the final drive ratio and you change the load on the engine effecting how you're intake and exhaust tuning works. If you got your VDI and aux ports working and put a custom exhaust from header flange to tip I bet you can get 200rwhp peak and 10% more average power.... sounds a lot better to me than a low torque engine that vibrates the whole car due to solid mounts, with a clutch harder to use than it needs to that is made for 550+ hp cars *A clutch that is to strong for what you need is a waste of money, you will need to slip it more shortening life also doing more damage to the flywheel as well as adding stress to the rest of the drive line that is not needed* and a fuel pump that may make it run richer than it already is making the car cost more to drive and creating a loss of power.
On a side note if you click the "Quote" button at the bottom right of a post you will get better looking results when you quote some one.
J9fd3s is no dummy, from my guess is that he is saying a stock NA is not fast and any set up with stock ECU will again not be fast. But i may be reading too much into it and will not put words in his mouth. On just a bone stock FC the exhaust and tune of the ECU are the two things that hold it back, When you start modifying the car the stock tune quickly becomes the number one power killer.
My advice to you is to do more research, The whole car is a system and every change effect every other part. If you swap out your intake you have also changed the exhaust tuning, You change the final drive ratio and you change the load on the engine effecting how you're intake and exhaust tuning works. If you got your VDI and aux ports working and put a custom exhaust from header flange to tip I bet you can get 200rwhp peak and 10% more average power.... sounds a lot better to me than a low torque engine that vibrates the whole car due to solid mounts, with a clutch harder to use than it needs to that is made for 550+ hp cars *A clutch that is to strong for what you need is a waste of money, you will need to slip it more shortening life also doing more damage to the flywheel as well as adding stress to the rest of the drive line that is not needed* and a fuel pump that may make it run richer than it already is making the car cost more to drive and creating a loss of power.
On a side note if you click the "Quote" button at the bottom right of a post you will get better looking results when you quote some one.
01-24-10, 06:30 PM
#11
If its not a DD i would get a 4port and go with a more aggressive port job and learn how to set up your car. Bolt on parts will never make a truly fast can unless you go turbo, but then still the efficiency of bolt on parts with a turbo still sucks and more power with the same setup can be had if you set it up right. I have said this in a LOT of posts, PEAK POWER WILL NOT MAKE YOUR CAR FAST average power will and your set up is for peak power.
J9fd3s is no dummy, from my guess is that he is saying a stock NA is not fast and any set up with stock ECU will again not be fast. But i may be reading too much into it and will not put words in his mouth. On just a bone stock FC the exhaust and tune of the ECU are the two things that hold it back, When you start modifying the car the stock tune quickly becomes the number one power killer.
My advice to you is to do more research, The whole car is a system and every change effect every other part. If you swap out your intake you have also changed the exhaust tuning, You change the final drive ratio and you change the load on the engine effecting how you're intake and exhaust tuning works. If you got your VDI and aux ports working and put a custom exhaust from header flange to tip I bet you can get 200rwhp peak and 10% more average power.... sounds a lot better to me than a low torque engine that vibrates the whole car due to solid mounts, with a clutch harder to use than it needs to that is made for 550+ hp cars *A clutch that is to strong for what you need is a waste of money, you will need to slip it more shortening life also doing more damage to the flywheel as well as adding stress to the rest of the drive line that is not needed* and a fuel pump that may make it run richer than it already is making the car cost more to drive and creating a loss of power.
On a side note if you click the "Quote" button at the bottom right of a post you will get better looking results when you quote some one.
J9fd3s is no dummy, from my guess is that he is saying a stock NA is not fast and any set up with stock ECU will again not be fast. But i may be reading too much into it and will not put words in his mouth. On just a bone stock FC the exhaust and tune of the ECU are the two things that hold it back, When you start modifying the car the stock tune quickly becomes the number one power killer.
My advice to you is to do more research, The whole car is a system and every change effect every other part. If you swap out your intake you have also changed the exhaust tuning, You change the final drive ratio and you change the load on the engine effecting how you're intake and exhaust tuning works. If you got your VDI and aux ports working and put a custom exhaust from header flange to tip I bet you can get 200rwhp peak and 10% more average power.... sounds a lot better to me than a low torque engine that vibrates the whole car due to solid mounts, with a clutch harder to use than it needs to that is made for 550+ hp cars *A clutch that is to strong for what you need is a waste of money, you will need to slip it more shortening life also doing more damage to the flywheel as well as adding stress to the rest of the drive line that is not needed* and a fuel pump that may make it run richer than it already is making the car cost more to drive and creating a loss of power.
On a side note if you click the "Quote" button at the bottom right of a post you will get better looking results when you quote some one.
we all need to start some where.
01-25-10, 06:18 PM
#13
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