diyman25

A litte bit of my engine first. First build this engine back in 2003. at that time. i was building a
SCCA ITE club racing car.




did few years of racing. I decide let my self pull togeter ( spending way too more )so i keep

my car to storge

The engine make 320HP at 8500RPM at MAZDATRIX's engine with GenBerg 58 IDA

Quick spec

T2 base 13B PP with new T2 housing, new 9.7 rotor. balance . with PP housing design by locoal racer in my area at tha time (SCA)


Because all the experince i learn from my 13B PP.... I decide I need a car that is easier to drive
and easier to take care. so i build a 13B Stock port 1981 RX-7




]http://youtu.be/Arw9a5nGiQY


it was pretty fun to develop this car, and i learn a lot from how to set up the live axle design car

but as you know. that is only so much you can have from almost stock engine. I try to keep up with modern rivel. but that feeling sucks when you can out brake them and out corner them but loose at back to straight way....


So after few mouthof debet i finally decided to pull my PP out from the storge. and decide to take it a full rebuild( since is sitting for almost 6 years)

here is what i will use

MOTEC M2R never have experience with motec before. hopely it will be a good one

TWM 58 IDA style throttle body. Is a littble big for my RPM use( under 8500)

Dynamic injector 2200. Keep it simple by just using 2 instead of 4


if any one of any common and thought. please post it. i need all the brain power as i need it

since me and my rx-7 is all the way at asia already. i dont have that much resource like i used too


REgard

J

diyman25

Finally Tearing engine part by my self at my friend's shop( he was too busy working on other customer at 12am )

A bit nervous . because you never know. what happend when you let engine store for 6 years and this engine was build back in 2003

and this engine althought is build by my good friend at his workshop. and he is a long time rotary racer

and BMW instructor At SCA

At that time i use Brand new housing, Rotor.. new gear almost every thing is new

When he assemble this engine for me back in 2003, he told me leave him alone. because i will bother him..... I was like WTF


When i first crack it open. i feel relief . because this engine seen to like in very good condion



The engine did not have those crazy port. i think this is same port That" 7's only racing" use

There is machine mark on the rotor surface and a balance hole. meaning is been balance and ok to rev to 8500RPM and above

Oil mod on shaft. i remember i order a oil jet last engine rebuild as well

there is not too much wear on apex seal either. i think the burn mark in the middle of seal is from

loose clearance ( I heard thi is can engine to seal better at high RPM)



I am wondering how loose(clearance) of spec i should build for this PP motor. I get some spec from RB website
but that is only for carbon apex seal, how about other spec ? according to factory ? on loose side ?

thanks in advance

diyman25

Some more pic of my housing and Rotor

seen to be in good condion.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Looks like fun!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

everything looks good in there!

i don't like the exhaust port though, its odd...

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

the engine does look good. while i remained quite indifferent about it, i do agree with J9fd3s in that the exhaust port looked a bit odd to me. what's the story with it?

diyman25

Dig it from the Race car section this is my 13B PP dyno thread back in 2005

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...eral+port+dyno

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

it does look a little pitted right above where the port closes but not bad enough to worry about.

diyman25

some update of my project

since engine is so clean. clean the parts was pretty easy


after assemble the parts find out. my FC oil pan baffle did not fit !!! thinking to build a oil sump

spacer with baffle



Engine should be in to the car soon. here at taiwan, lock of Rotary support meaning i have

machine every parts that i cant buy it like i used to in state


and last , why i am change engine. here is my poor stock sepc engine blue print by Tri-point.

from 1997. you will suprise with apex seal worn to this stage, engine still start(but will took

about 30sec-1min at cold), but once engine warm out the car will be fine, will not eat engine oil

and other thing, however will develop a miss fire during high RPM

diyman25

Some update for the project

Engine still not into the chassic yet.

Machining the new pulley

putting new side mount bracket for the car


will keep the project update if any thing new happend

diyman25

some more update of the project

Finally engine is into the bay


redrill the engine mount to make engine sit more straight hope it willl improve drive train loose


putting two FC cooler to cool my 13B PP

diyman25

Testing my new diff cooler pump. i am getting tired of change final drive.. this is my 6th set.. hope wit cooler. will be my last


finally decide to insall rear coilover in my car also.

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Wow those engine pieces are clean. Turbo's rarely come out that clean unless your spraying water

P-nut

wont it be hard to tune the idle with those injectors?

diyman25

New day of project

working on intakemanifold now

I chose long intake manifold for my PP project. instead of short type

whats every ones idea ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

it'll have more midrange power, but that might work really well.

23Racer

Man this chart is great. Thanks for posting it. I think it explains some of what I have been seeing with my car an intake.

My 4 throat ITB setup runs different diameter pipes and different length runners. If you take the outer Bridge Ported runners, they are 49 mm I.D. and run 13.25" from face of block to mouth of the intake bell. Both of these dimensions relate to a power peak of approx 8,500 - 8700 rpm. The Bridge Port outers will support that rpm as well.

My Inners or Primaries are a 40 mm I.D. and run about .5" longer as they are on an angle, so that would put them at just about 13.75". These measurements are on the bottom or longest side. I may actuallt be about a 1/4" shorter as a mean length. This length should give a H.P. peak around 8200 rpm if you can extrapolate these things from the chart. The car is running a pretty big street port on the primaries, so that should support the flow as well.

The car has a really broad torque curve and pulls easily all the way from about 3,500 to over 9,000 rpm. These charts are the first ones that put everything together. Great find and it puts my mind at ease somewhat. Thanks a ton.

My only concern is where does the measurement start and where does it end? In my case I am measuring from the mouth of the bell lip to the plate surface that bolts to the engine.

Eric

John Huijben

iTrader: (1)

Here is the complete page:



Judging by the picture it should be measured from the trochoid surface, so you should probably add 1.9" to your intake length to be able to compare them

diyman25

MM. my intake manifold is on long side that i notice

but it all come down to the exhaust set up also

here is some more update for my intake !!


Hope all this small detail can improve my overall performance

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

well you can see a long intake will have peak power occur at a lower rpm, which depending on the track, driver, gearing etc might work really well.

but yes getting all the details right will really improve things.

diyman25

I am using LS2 truck Coil.... was suprise how hard to get it at ebay. seen to be every one want this type of coil


Engine in. finish air filter and intake manifold . and building custom tower bar

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Updates?

diyman25

Some update

The first race will be jun 17. but... the engine is not fire up yet. so i cam pretty much in deep ****

the car is strip out at rollcage shop for the rollcage i am build a simple cage that will meet FIA

stander. not those fancy time attack or rally cage. which is too hevey for my project



here is one of many custom part from my car.... Tri bar for engine bay took very long time to build

but end result was pretty good

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Lookin' good! 15 more days haha

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

You need my exhaust:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-rx-7-1979-1985-parts-101/13b-sa-fb-exhaust-must-see-998099/