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Naturally Aspirated Performance ForumDiscussion of naturally-aspirated rotary performance. No Power Adders, only pure rotary power!
From the "12A" to the "RENESIS" and beyond.
is there a chunk of the rotor housing missing on the last picture? or is something reflecting weird?
and was the rear iron coolant passage gouged open on the upper right?
And show us better pictures of the rotor housings surfaces, and apex seals
All rotors are in good shape. No gouging, just reflections.
Will get requested pics tonight.
All seals are in the same good condition.
I cannot find a measurement for the height of the side seals. I can only find that they must protrude a minimum of .02 from the rotors (which they do). But they are the same height as the brand new one from mazdatrix.
When you lose a rotor bearing your compression goes away.
Not sure if kidding
It did progressively get worse though. It stopped and started fine for a week.
Why though. All the sealing surfaces are not affected by the bearing material.
Maybe it was causing it to not spin fast enough when hot? As soon as I put oil down the carb, it fired.
Met another local rotary person, and he is way more experienced than me. He does not like how I extended the secondary bridges and left the primary bridges the same. He says it messes with the timing and is not correct. If you bridge port all 4 irons, all 4 bridges need to be the same.
All rotors are in good shape. No gouging, just reflections.
Met another local rotary person, and he is way more experienced than me. He does not like how I extended the secondary bridges and left the primary bridges the same. He says it messes with the timing and is not correct. If you bridge port all 4 irons, all 4 bridges need to be the same.
Well yeah, maybe, but its not that big a deal. Nothing in fact compared to the catastrophic bearing failure, the cause of this should be your main priority. Did you measure E shaft diameter and compare to ID of bearing? Pretty sure all these dimensions are listed in the factory service manual. Never heard of the weber jet mod being a problem before. Perhaps there is another restriction on oil supply somewhere?
Im baffled, as the oil pressure gauge read all was ok. And i checked its accuracy with a mechanical in the beginning when i was building the car.
The planetary gear bearings show no signs of wear, nor does the e-shaft for them.
I did not measure the e-shaft/bearings, as it all came out of the same running engine.
The fact that only the rotor bearings got chewed up, points to the oiling jets letting too much oil cool the rotors at idle, and not the bearings. They were gauged at the correct 200 size.
Im going to pop the ball and springs back in after this **** show!
I only broke the engine down last night, so I still have to investigate wtf happened.
Yes. I stuffed a small peice of foam down into the holes, and blew them all out when done. Did each hole individually, and taped the other holes, while grinding. The foam was the same peice for all holes, and was the same size when done.
I verified the pieces all came out, and were intact.
I have yet to blow it out, so I will see if anything stupid comes out.
I fricken blew it all out, pressure brake cleaned it (have the refillable cans with rubber tips), and blew it out again! Blow gun has rubber tip, and compressor is set to 130psi.
Have another e-shaft on the way, and will drop it all off at Goopy's for re-balancing.
How does the oiling work in the e-shaft? It comes in at the planetary gears, then I thought splits there and goes to the rotor bearings.
It would be a hell of a coincidence if both passage ways got blocked to the rotors, seeing that they are fed individually.
I say start over, the gouge at the top of the bridge slot is not good and most likely caused the side seal to break and may have taken the apex seal out.
03-20-16, 04:20 PM
20160320_142649 by thomas telesco, on Flickr
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20160320_150341 by thomas telesco, on Flickr
