Thats great news. I doubt id find any UK rotary specialist willing to do this so I'd have to get an independant to do this- is it easy enough to calculate how much to remove on rotaries? Piston engines I know, rotaries, well...

 

how come you guys want the compression lower? the stock compression is conservative enough if they are able to bump it all the way up to 12:1. i mean, i understand the boost guys like the ease of tuning and safety of lower compression, but stock compression is plenty conservative, i just don't see why someone would want 7.5:1 comp. not against it, just curious why?

 

There's a limit to how much fuel and air (gasoline engine) can be compressed before it self ignites. It can't be infinity compressed. A larger (low compression) combustion chamber gives you more volume at maximum compression since your using a turbo to pre-compress.

 

I don't see a reason to go below 9.0:1 unless you are trying to top 600 rwhp and even then 8.5:1 would be plenty.

 

Even on pump gas, help high speed runs, 1.5bar+, and no water/alcy?

Reason I ask as its predominantly a road going car and I've learnt from past bad experience (electrics failing, jets blocking, etc, just one more thing to go wrong, but I still use it, just to a lesser extent) to use water/alcy as an added safety measure rather than a vital anti-det device.

Im used to piston engines and on those I always prefer to go big boost and smaller port for to get max torque for the power, hence why I prefer lower comp.

Still learning rotary stuff so this is all great stuff for me

 

so, i haven't posted up anything new because i haven't gotten a whole lot done. the engine is apart, gonna take it over to get it hot tanked and cleaned up, and i'm gonna use the engine while it's apart to take any measurements i want or anything i might wanna try in the engine while i'm in this little "design phase". i am also getting a little support from a local ceramics place called NIC industries. The processes they use are completely different from what JHB does for the ceramic coating they use, so i'm looking at some different options. But yeah, i didn't give up on the idea, things are just slowin' down. the engine is actually 80 miles from where i live at my dad's shop, so i can't make it over the mountain all time, especially this time of year. on another note, if anyone is interested in helping me out at all with this project, i'd love to have a hand, more ideas, anything anyone's willing to offer. i am actually looking for some old 12a rotors. if i had a few sets of rotors to try a couple different design ideas, it would save me some time. anyways, thanks to anyone who's put there time and energy into the thread. i didn't forget about it.

 

rpi.. i have some interesting information from them. i even have 1 of their rotors.. shocking to say the least. rotor is super heavy, no compression chamber. and they all ran on 2mm ceramic apex seal. no use of the traling plug on the rotor housing. also some diesel work was being done by rpi.. RPI= Rotary Power International. they were located next town over from the town I live in. they are no longer in bussines. RPI started as a company that belong to Curtis Wright. later Curtis sold it, to John Deere, later John deere sold it to RPI.Curtis Wright was one of the first to have licensing aggrements to do what ever the **** he wanted to the rotary engine. later he sold some rights to Mazda

 

http://www.bizwiz.com/cgi-bin/bizxsr...sAR6RejVmQ9QjA

 

or just google rotary power international

 

http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G1-92511238.html