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Old 09-14-16, 02:06 AM
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It's 1620 somewhere...

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Kind of stuck...

So back in 2012 I dropped the hammer on a 91 vert with 88k original miles on it. From then to now my little rotary has come a looooong way from where she left the factory. After blowing an inner coolant seal, I went with a full rebuild and this is where I sit today...
-Full tru-dual RB exhaust with Aero Turbine resonators and 2540i mufflers (If you decide to ever try Aero Turbines, lemme tell you... They're straight through and LOUD! Kind of a nice tone tho.)
-R.tek 1.5
-Full emissions delete and aux port removal
-Street port (How big/ mild of a port job is this to you guys?)
-ACT stage 1 clutch and some more bolt-on's that make life a little better

I've been torn about where to go from here. I know I need a piggyback/ wide band, or just go all out with a SAFC to give any true gains. I've also been toying with the Miata gearbox swap since I no longer daily my 7 and the thought of running through the gears a bit quicker really sound appealing. Just looking for a push or kick in a better direction. Thanks.
Here's some current pics of my build I've needed to post...
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Old 09-14-16, 10:53 AM
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Spin 2 Win

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Wait so you have an rtek modded ECU but want to piggyback on top of that? Why? What all have you done suspension wise? I personally have had a lot more fun in my car after getting some decent coilovers and putting poly/delrin/mazdacomp/aluminum bushings throughout the subframe, diff mounts, tranny mounts, engine mounts, control arm bushings, etc.

If you are truly wanting to get more power you could dive down the rabbit hole of going full ITB intake setup. There are quite a few different threads about what others are running. I would suggest checking out Infernosg's build, 13bREW's build, and Peejay is also a wealth of knowledge on the subject as he has tried many different intake setups.

You already have full exhaust but getting a true tuned header with a specific primary length into a collector has been shown to make good gains over Racing Beat off the shelf parts. However, you really would need to do some dyno testing with either adjustable primary lengths or a couple different headers made up with different lengths to find what makes the best power on your specific setup. I personally am waiting to do this until everything else on the engine and intake is how I want so that the variables are set in stone.

Just some ideas here as to some ideas or goals to strive for on a typical NA build. Is this kind of what you are looking for?

Last edited by Lavitzlegend; 09-14-16 at 03:08 PM.
Old 09-20-16, 07:11 PM
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if you've done the power mods, its time to attack the problem from the other end and loose some weight.

1. my vert had a steel spare, does yours? the coupes usually had an AL spare, which is much lighter, or go without.
2. if you ditch the spare, you might leave the jack at home too.
3. verts have an AL hood, do you?
4. if the a/c doesn't work, pull it out. its a good idea to put all that stuff in a box, you might want it someday.
5. how about the air bag? its not heavy, so its more like you're getting a better steering wheel.
6. cat back, the factory cat back weighs a TON, everything else is lighter.

start there, and notice that except for maybe the a/c, you haven't done anything that you'd notice?

i've never done that full list to 1 car, but cat back + loosing the spare is more than 60lbs.
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