if you were going to make a FC na 250 hp
11-29-13, 09:53 AM
#26
Old [Sch|F]ool
I saw my 10,000rpm Autometer go way off-scale on a mis-shift a couple times. Scary but it's holding together.
The last time I had the exhaust off, I slipped a feeler gauge in there to check apex seal to slot clearance and it is still good. It's opened up by about .0005" but that could also just be seal wear. The chrome on the rotor housings is in horrible shape though, so compression is very poor. The S4 and up rotor housings handle high RPM far better than the earlier ones do.
When I took apart my previous engine, which had 3mm seals and was kept below 8000rpm, the rotor housings still looked great! The rotor slots were opened up to an incredible degree, though, maybe .010-015 seal clearance. And one of the apex seals was broken, yet it drove fine other than just feeling very soft at low speed.
The last time I had the exhaust off, I slipped a feeler gauge in there to check apex seal to slot clearance and it is still good. It's opened up by about .0005" but that could also just be seal wear. The chrome on the rotor housings is in horrible shape though, so compression is very poor. The S4 and up rotor housings handle high RPM far better than the earlier ones do.
When I took apart my previous engine, which had 3mm seals and was kept below 8000rpm, the rotor housings still looked great! The rotor slots were opened up to an incredible degree, though, maybe .010-015 seal clearance. And one of the apex seals was broken, yet it drove fine other than just feeling very soft at low speed.
11-29-13, 01:38 PM
#27
I would only start with a S4 base model and add the drivetrain I wanted because its easier to add a couple big pieces than swap out all the little options to drop the weight.
TII were only available with sunroof and power options. I worked my '87 TII down to base model spec, but it was way more work/time than if I put the rear subframe/trans/engine in a true base chassis.
What I am saying is 250 NA RWHP is going to feel real fast in a 2,300lb(S4 base) car and pretty doggy in a 2,800(S4 TII)-3,000lb(S5 TII) one.
My base modeled out TII with all the big radiator/turbo junk scaled at 2,500-2,600 depending on gas and 50/50-48/52 F/R weight bias full interior.
Both my friends S4 bases and mine with NA drivetrain/brakes full interior scaled ~2,300lbs full interior.
NA= keep an eye constantly on weight. Honda guys got this.
TII were only available with sunroof and power options. I worked my '87 TII down to base model spec, but it was way more work/time than if I put the rear subframe/trans/engine in a true base chassis.
What I am saying is 250 NA RWHP is going to feel real fast in a 2,300lb(S4 base) car and pretty doggy in a 2,800(S4 TII)-3,000lb(S5 TII) one.
My base modeled out TII with all the big radiator/turbo junk scaled at 2,500-2,600 depending on gas and 50/50-48/52 F/R weight bias full interior.
Both my friends S4 bases and mine with NA drivetrain/brakes full interior scaled ~2,300lbs full interior.
NA= keep an eye constantly on weight. Honda guys got this.
12-01-13, 11:04 AM
#28
Old [Sch|F]ool
I would only start with a S4 base model and add the drivetrain I wanted because its easier to add a couple big pieces than swap out all the little options to drop the weight.
TII were only available with sunroof and power options. I worked my '87 TII down to base model spec, but it was way more work/time than if I put the rear subframe/trans/engine in a true base chassis.
What I am saying is 250 NA RWHP is going to feel real fast in a 2,300lb(S4 base) car and pretty doggy in a 2,800(S4 TII)-3,000lb(S5 TII) one.
My base modeled out TII with all the big radiator/turbo junk scaled at 2,500-2,600 depending on gas and 50/50-48/52 F/R weight bias full interior.
Both my friends S4 bases and mine with NA drivetrain/brakes full interior scaled ~2,300lbs full interior.
NA= keep an eye constantly on weight. Honda guys got this.
TII were only available with sunroof and power options. I worked my '87 TII down to base model spec, but it was way more work/time than if I put the rear subframe/trans/engine in a true base chassis.
What I am saying is 250 NA RWHP is going to feel real fast in a 2,300lb(S4 base) car and pretty doggy in a 2,800(S4 TII)-3,000lb(S5 TII) one.
My base modeled out TII with all the big radiator/turbo junk scaled at 2,500-2,600 depending on gas and 50/50-48/52 F/R weight bias full interior.
Both my friends S4 bases and mine with NA drivetrain/brakes full interior scaled ~2,300lbs full interior.
NA= keep an eye constantly on weight. Honda guys got this.
12-05-13, 01:12 PM
#29
BRAP BRAP BRAP
Another important thing for NA is your header. It would be better to make your own and make sure the two runner are equal length. How long the runs are before it hits the collector is important. Also a megaphone helps a lot, helps build back pressure. Just do your homework on how long the runners have to be depending on your setup and what size megaphone to use if you use one. My project is a carb NA build. Aiming to get 300hp NA but not completely done with my setup.
12-06-13, 02:58 PM
#30
My FB weighs close to 2600lb. That is with street tires on it, the competition tires weigh maybe 10-20lb more per corner.
This HAS to be with driver? Or do you just need to shovel/spray a couple hundred pounds of dirt out of the car?
That said, I found my corner weight notes for my TII and I had exaggerated. It is 2,594Lbs with 1/4 tank gas and 2,665 with a full tank. Full (base) interior, all glass, stock body, etc. No driver.
This HAS to be with driver? Or do you just need to shovel/spray a couple hundred pounds of dirt out of the car?
That said, I found my corner weight notes for my TII and I had exaggerated. It is 2,594Lbs with 1/4 tank gas and 2,665 with a full tank. Full (base) interior, all glass, stock body, etc. No driver.
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Kruel13
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