Building PP housings : made holes, need advice on epoxy
#1
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Hi all, here is my first attempt at a pp. turned out as good as i need it.
Two questions before doing the real parts :
- what is the yello-ish epoxy racingbeat use in their housings ? Seems to be liquid at first, and that would be the best way to make a perfect seal in the water gallery
- do i put the epoxy first and then make the holes or do i make the holes, put the alu tubes in and then fill the water galery ?
Thanks guys.
Two questions before doing the real parts :
- what is the yello-ish epoxy racingbeat use in their housings ? Seems to be liquid at first, and that would be the best way to make a perfect seal in the water gallery
- do i put the epoxy first and then make the holes or do i make the holes, put the alu tubes in and then fill the water galery ?
Thanks guys.
Last edited by whizzybang; 08-09-15 at 05:46 PM.
#2
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i can tell you how i did mine, but that doesn't mean i did mine the right way.
i used Devcon Aluminum Putty (F). it's not clear and it's not a liquid. i'm guessing RB used Devcon, but some other kind of epoxy because it was their manual why i had even heard the name Devcon.
i bored the holes and inserted the sleeves, then i applied the epoxy. you'll want to clean the passages first. some people even go so far as scuffing the surface a bit.
i used Devcon Aluminum Putty (F). it's not clear and it's not a liquid. i'm guessing RB used Devcon, but some other kind of epoxy because it was their manual why i had even heard the name Devcon.
i bored the holes and inserted the sleeves, then i applied the epoxy. you'll want to clean the passages first. some people even go so far as scuffing the surface a bit.
#3
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Thanks man. I feared the aluminium putty wouldn't go in the tight places and therefore would create coolant leaks inside or outside the housing.
How long can i play with the devcon once it is mixed, before everything goes too mich solid to use ?
Same question for the plastic steel putty for the plates.
How long can i play with the devcon once it is mixed, before everything goes too mich solid to use ?
Same question for the plastic steel putty for the plates.
#4
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Has anyone tried aluminum soldering/brazing of the insert instead of epoxy? This stuff is good to over *700.
HTS-2000 - Second Generation Fluxless Brazing Rod | AluminumRepair.com
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/hts-20...FYI7gQodaKACrQ
HTS-2000 - Second Generation Fluxless Brazing Rod | AluminumRepair.com
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/hts-20...FYI7gQodaKACrQ
Last edited by TonyD89; 08-12-15 at 04:55 PM.
#5
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Same question for the plastic steel putty for the plates.
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i did the devcon in the steel plates, it was actually pretty easy, and went really well. no worries about the stuff either, it is SOLID. i used the steel devcon, like RB says.
i haven't had to do a rotor housing yet, but the ones i have done use a threaded insert, and so i think it seals a little easier.
i haven't had to do a rotor housing yet, but the ones i have done use a threaded insert, and so i think it seals a little easier.
#9
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Thank you everyne for the precious advice.
One more question : there are square holes on the side of the plates that connect to the exhaust port. Since i go PP, these holes won't be covered by the LIM anymore. Do i have to devcon them or what ? It seems i cannot leave them open.
One more question : there are square holes on the side of the plates that connect to the exhaust port. Since i go PP, these holes won't be covered by the LIM anymore. Do i have to devcon them or what ? It seems i cannot leave them open.
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it depends. some housing combinations will block them off. if not you can fill them.
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i didn't fill the one i did all the way to the intake flange like you did, i dont think its really needed.
that being said yours look great!
that being said yours look great!
#16
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Building PP housings : made holes, need advice on epoxy
Thanks j9fd3s. I think it is not needed too but didn't know i would run out of product.
Yes this was a practice housing. The real ones are done now. I will use the aluminium putty in the next days. I hope i won't run into the same quantity problem.
Yes this was a practice housing. The real ones are done now. I will use the aluminium putty in the next days. I hope i won't run into the same quantity problem.
#17
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Thread Starter
Hi all,
There is one question left : what about exhaust ports ? I use FD housings. Do i need to port the exhaust or will it kill the very last bit of torque i am expecting out of this engine ?
Or if i don't port, will i choke the engine ?
To be honest, i'm a dick with a Dremel tool, no steady hands at all so not comfortable with grinding the exhaust.
There is one question left : what about exhaust ports ? I use FD housings. Do i need to port the exhaust or will it kill the very last bit of torque i am expecting out of this engine ?
Or if i don't port, will i choke the engine ?
To be honest, i'm a dick with a Dremel tool, no steady hands at all so not comfortable with grinding the exhaust.
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the good news is that the stock FD port is a good size.
the FD port opens at 71, and closes at 48 degrees. the race port opens at 73 degrees and closes at 55 or something, basically the race port is larger, but not by a lot. if you do cut the port bigger, make sure you put the bevel back
the FD port opens at 71, and closes at 48 degrees. the race port opens at 73 degrees and closes at 55 or something, basically the race port is larger, but not by a lot. if you do cut the port bigger, make sure you put the bevel back
#22
Exhaust Manifold Leak
to seal the water at the inserts I used araldite 2002 IIRC. seems to work good.
What intake closing angle you have with this ports? anything from 80-85° abdc is where you would be good for 9000 rpm.
What intake closing angle you have with this ports? anything from 80-85° abdc is where you would be good for 9000 rpm.
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