6 Port Porting Advice
05-14-13, 04:47 PM
#29
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought some Pineapple inserts since they're about half the price of the Atkins machined sleeves, and I'm likely going to hack up the sleeves. No need to ruin one of their nice pieces. I'll epoxy the inserts into the sleeves (even though they lock into the sleeves), and the sleeves into the iron with no epoxy in the path of air. I'm a little paranoid of epoxy flaking off and chewing stuff up even though I'm sure many have had no problems. Just my thoughts, though.
By the way, those Pineapple inserts fit beautifully.
By the way, those Pineapple inserts fit beautifully.
05-23-13, 09:39 PM
#30
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Porting info for forum guests who just want facts (since I'm kind of one): I found it's possible to make the S4 na primary ports close nearly as late as the Pineapple Racing large streetport for fc 13b turbos. However, I didn't port it deep enough to hit water or the EGR passage, so I'm not sure how deep one can port it. Plus, the EGR hole in the ports looks weird.
After porting, thinking, and reading a lot more, I've decided to slightly extend and bridge the primary ports; the bridge being .21 in. wide and the port being around 1.1 in. long and .075 in. (1.9 mm) from the coolant seal, necessitating a relief in the housing. For the end plates, increasing overlap on the main port using the Pineapple large streetport template and not even touching anything else (including aux ports) besides inlet casting cleanup. The stock sleeves with the inserts will be locked in the aux ports. The exhaust ports are stock T2 besides port matching to the sleeve.
My theory is to broaden power throughout even at the possible expense of never reaching the full potential of the bridge. Even if peak power would be the same or even less than the gigantic streetport, the increased overlap of the bridge should yield more torque at a lower rpm.
If I'm nuts, let me know quick because tomorrow I bridge the real deal!
After porting, thinking, and reading a lot more, I've decided to slightly extend and bridge the primary ports; the bridge being .21 in. wide and the port being around 1.1 in. long and .075 in. (1.9 mm) from the coolant seal, necessitating a relief in the housing. For the end plates, increasing overlap on the main port using the Pineapple large streetport template and not even touching anything else (including aux ports) besides inlet casting cleanup. The stock sleeves with the inserts will be locked in the aux ports. The exhaust ports are stock T2 besides port matching to the sleeve.
My theory is to broaden power throughout even at the possible expense of never reaching the full potential of the bridge. Even if peak power would be the same or even less than the gigantic streetport, the increased overlap of the bridge should yield more torque at a lower rpm.
If I'm nuts, let me know quick because tomorrow I bridge the real deal!
05-28-13, 09:09 PM
#31
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock S4 na intermediate plate.
Streetport (extend port) S4 na intermediate plate (with no additional overlap on the main port) and a bridgeport cut .090 in from the coolant seal with the bridge being .225+/- .005 wide. The main ports still need cleaned up a bit, but aside from beveling the closings, the bridgeports are done. No going back now!
Streetport (extend port) S4 na intermediate plate (with no additional overlap on the main port) and a bridgeport cut .090 in from the coolant seal with the bridge being .225+/- .005 wide. The main ports still need cleaned up a bit, but aside from beveling the closings, the bridgeports are done. No going back now!
06-01-13, 04:39 PM
#33
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the advice, Kahren. I didn't know you could hog off that much material on an na center. However, I'm trying to keep the ports modestly sized except for increased overlap for broader power, hence the "primary" bridge and earlier opening end plate ports. If I were to close the center ports even later, wouldn't that further move the volumetric efficiency up in the rpms? I'm afraid if I go too much bigger on the ports, I'd add to the peakyness the 6 port end plates already supposedly have.
06-03-13, 08:08 AM
#35
i am not a girl
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: CT
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the advice, Kahren. I didn't know you could hog off that much material on an na center. However, I'm trying to keep the ports modestly sized except for increased overlap for broader power, hence the "primary" bridge and earlier opening end plate ports. If I were to close the center ports even later, wouldn't that further move the volumetric efficiency up in the rpms? I'm afraid if I go too much bigger on the ports, I'd add to the peakyness the 6 port end plates already supposedly have.
I don't like to add much overlap because that changes the way the engine behaves during cruise and normal driving. I think enough power can be made with a street port without having to go bridge (but everyone is different).
I think one of the most important mods to do to these cars is to change the diff ratio from 4.1 to something like 4.9 or 5.1, that really wakes up the car, and makes it much more enjoyable to drive, while keeping a quite exhaust, something like racing beat catback.
if you don't feel comfortable porting on an only set of plates you have, better not do it at all, if you have something to practice on first that would of course be ideal.
On my stage 1 primary port there is about a 1/4" of material on the inside of that runner up top,
so there is still plenty of meat left for durability of the iron, i don't like to port any more then that really, as i think sacrificing the engines durability is not worth the gains. Going deeper and making a bigger bowl in my experience doesn't help power, if anything i think it only hurts flow into the engine.
11-04-13, 07:59 PM
#36
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a quick update for anyone who was interested in this nonsense, I finally got the car driveable. I went with the relief cut, bridged primaries and opened up the main ports of the 6 port plates earlier. I also lightly beveled and polished all closing edges.
I am using Arctic Cat M1000 throttle bodies (50 mm straight through) and Injector Dynamics 1000 injectors in the primary fuel injector location in the center iron. I was using the ID1000s in the throttle body location, but this caused icing on the intake runners. Also, the Arctic Cat uses a returnless fuel rail, making me nervous even though my engine ran ok this way. Bleeding that returnless fuel setup was as fun as it is on a diesel.
I'm still figuring out the tuning and what does what and why, but it's driveable! After I complete Mazda's break in procedure and have an acceptable tune, I'll let it sing and report my findings.
Before the permanent wiring harness.
Peekaboo
The exhaust smells nice.
I am using Arctic Cat M1000 throttle bodies (50 mm straight through) and Injector Dynamics 1000 injectors in the primary fuel injector location in the center iron. I was using the ID1000s in the throttle body location, but this caused icing on the intake runners. Also, the Arctic Cat uses a returnless fuel rail, making me nervous even though my engine ran ok this way. Bleeding that returnless fuel setup was as fun as it is on a diesel.
I'm still figuring out the tuning and what does what and why, but it's driveable! After I complete Mazda's break in procedure and have an acceptable tune, I'll let it sing and report my findings.
Before the permanent wiring harness.
Peekaboo
The exhaust smells nice.
11-06-13, 01:31 PM
#40
It seems people are always trying to find ways to use 6port irons, here is my idea.
Make the secondary one big port, fill the primary with Devcon and have independent throttle bodys.
I think this would fix the vacuum problem then it would make 6port irons useful. Maybe add boost later.
I wish i had the time to test this, has anyone ever tried this?
Make the secondary one big port, fill the primary with Devcon and have independent throttle bodys.
I think this would fix the vacuum problem then it would make 6port irons useful. Maybe add boost later.
I wish i had the time to test this, has anyone ever tried this?
11-06-13, 06:58 PM
#41
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It seems people are always trying to find ways to use 6port irons, here is my idea.
Make the secondary one big port, fill the primary with Devcon and have independent throttle bodys.
I think this would fix the vacuum problem then it would make 6port irons useful. Maybe add boost later.
I wish i had the time to test this, has anyone ever tried this?
Make the secondary one big port, fill the primary with Devcon and have independent throttle bodys.
I think this would fix the vacuum problem then it would make 6port irons useful. Maybe add boost later.
I wish i had the time to test this, has anyone ever tried this?
Stewing over stuff like this can fester unless you get some stones, take a risk, and try it. At this point, I'm just thankful my engine runs!
11-16-13, 10:34 AM
#45
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,796
Received 2,574 Likes
on
1,830 Posts
11-19-13, 09:34 PM
#47
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! They're Jeep Gambler 15x8 wheels; 90s look for cheap! +25 offset with 3/4 in. spacers for about +6 offset. 205/60 in the rear, 195/55 in the front. I'd like to go fatter after I burn these off.
11-21-13, 04:35 PM
#49
Isaiah 53.7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Forgotten measurements; total length is probably no more than 4 in. The total width of the unit is around 10 in.
Hope that helps! The only issue with the unit is no idle control. I can post the Arctic Cat TPS pin identification later, too. There's NO info on this.