onefastrx7

Is it possible to hook up water injection to the LTX8? Can you make the software to turn on an output channel based on certain settings ( lets say >90% tps, >5psi boost, and >3000rpms)?

1sgen

iTrader: (1)

you can have outputs programmed to switch on with boost or rpm but not both and im not sure about tps switching

10sec rx7

you can have the output switch on with boost or rpm or both together,

if you set auxrpm to 4000 and mapaux to 3psi it wont turn on till you exceed 4000rpm and 3psi,

ie 4000rpm and 2 psi wont turn it on

Dale

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that with good tunning, no water injection was needed.

onefastrx7

It might not be needed, but it would be useful if it is there ( track use/drag race). Now if only MT had a table for ign timing and fuel correction based on that output... Let say add 3 degrees and lean out by 3% while the output is on?

onefastrx7

Dale, like always you have the answer. Thanks for the support!!!

ronbros3

BOY that is , what scares me, reaching hi-boost then , adding timing and leaning it out also, could that be risque? RON

onefastrx7

Water/alcohol/methanol lets you run more boost/more timing/leaner AFR. All that means more power.

10sec rx7

you can,

use the aux input hooked up to the +pos output off the realy that turns on your water injection,

then set the AUX INP T to what ever you want with ign timing i think it can be +/- 50deg, pulling fuel out cant be done at the moment but adding can be done theough the AUX INP ADD,

all the input screens are in the aux screen you can add/reduce timing, add fuel, set secondary rpm limit, and add air to idle valve if being used

Dale

ronbros3

How would one go about the tuning , like adding timing say additional 3* on 14* already in at 16 lbs. boost 5000 rpm WOT. last time I did that imediate detonation set in , puff went the engine. that story was over.

10sec rx7

so you had 17deg timin at 16psi on pump fuel?? and the engine broke??

onefastrx7

What was the AFR on that last run?

Also, do not just jump to conclusions and add 3 degrees timing straight. I always add 0.5degrees at a time until the dyno graph looks smooth. If you keep on adding timing, power and torque will go up, if the engine likes that timing. If you get to a point where you add 1 degree and the engine stops making power, that usually means that you are 1-2 degrees from blowing it up. so stop there, or even pull one degree, just for safety.

It looks like you were at MBT already, so the extra 3 degrees blew the engine.