Danified

It's a 91 13bt. I have been having a really hard time getting the car to start especially when warm. If you stab the gas it sputters and back fires. If you hold it at a constant RPM, it sputters a little.

Here is a data log that I took with it just sitting in the driveway. It was at operating temp. I let it idle a for a bit then I reved it up to 3000 RPM a few times.

Does this data mean anything to anyone? Can you tell me what I need to adjust? I am pretty new to this ECU tuning stuff.

Any help would be great! Thanks!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

far as i have seen it is either slightly corroded connections at the injectors but i doubt that, which as the engine starts running the increased voltage and heat repairs the issue. the other is the way the microtech wires up to the trailing coil, the igniter in conjunction with the microtech only fires the front trailing spark plug and not the rear, you can fix this by replacing the OEM trailing coil with aftermarket units but i've already asked the question in the microtech forums so maybe someone has a fix for it.

the last one is spark plugs, the microtech does not like cold range spark plugs and if you haven't replaced them recently then they will be causing you issues with the microtech. every time i ran into it i would replace the plugs and then the car would start perfect and idle fine when cold.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Still waiting for the log to load.

BUt the rubbish in the above post about microtech not liking cold plugs etc is all crap.
The issue with only firing on trailing plug is an issue with your ecu, or wiring. Not everybody has the problem.

Get your tune here, tell us what injectors you have, do a compression test and well see what we can do.

Do a comp test cold, and WARM.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Ok i looked at the datalog.

Why is your TPS not calibrated? Why is it idling so low? Your alternator isnt working properly? Your tune looks out looking at the amount of fuel its injecting.

Do youknow how to calibrate tps? and we need to see the tune in it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's not an ECU issue, all 3 of the installs i have done gave the same results, it's worth checking. only 3 plugs firing will cause starting issues. checked, double then triple checked the wiring diagrams then i tried wiring them directly to the coils, no change.

the TPS being out of adjustment will be a large issue though, depending on your 1000 RPM map vs idle map.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Also.

Disconnecting TPS completely will not cause a starting issue what so ever. Hardly a power drop at all.

MAZDA FACTORY ECUS do not fire trailing leads on CRANK.
Its like arguing with a brick wall.

Trailing not working will not effect start up or most running what so ever.Anyway its nothing to do with this thread, not to mention this is a fuel only ecu which dosnt control the ignition.

Danified

Ummmm... Good questions. I don't know how to calibrate the TPS. I see the screw on the TPS but I don't know how to set it where it's suppose to be.

The idle is low because that is where the sticker on the hood said it was suppose to be. I was trying to check the timing with info from the ECU but it always says it's at 0 degrees until it revs up past 1000 RPM. What is the right way to check the timing?

As for the alternator, I still had the battery charger connected so that was probably messing with the alternator output.

How do I download the current tune?

A little more backgound on the car. I bought the car pretty much the way it is now. The guy I bought it from didn't know anything about it. Supposedly it's a freshly rebuilt motor with only about 2000 miles on it. I will try putting new plugs in it because I haven't done that yet. Couldn't hurt.

Thanks for your help guy!

Danified

I replaced all the spark plugs and that didn't make a difference. I can't find in the Microtech manual how to calibrate the TPS or how to download the current tune.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Dont do things like the above and waste money.
Your issue is not plugs etc.

Ok now
BEFORE YOU CALIBRATE TPS, turn your idle up first.
Their is a idle screw on the firewall side of the engine on the top of the throttle body(The head screw part that you turn is facing the passenger side). Turn this up half a turn( or one full turn).

And dont worry about the sticker on your bonnet. Then do the below.
Get back to us as to how it runs and do another datalog so we can reassess.
Grab your handset.

Put your car in ignition but dont turn it on.
Press the up button till you see

Opt_Mixtrm in the first line
Then press the right button till you see Opt_TPScal

THEN Press the MODE BUTTON ONCE(RED BUTTON)

Now you want the number in the second line which is probably now at 40%, you want to make this 0.
So press up or down (which ever way makes the number on the second line of your handset go down closer to 0). And keep going till its 0 and has a * or black square block next to it.

ONCE YOU HAVE DONE THIS press the MODE BUTTON ONCE AGAIN(RED BUTTON).

Thats how you calibrate TPS.

Danified

What should my idle RPM be? 1000?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Yes 1000rpm is fine.

Danified

Ok.... I adjusted the idle to about 1000 RPM after it was warmed up. I shut off the car and calibrated the TPS like you said to. I am still not sure how to download the current tune and I am paranoid about screwing up the current tune so bad that the car won't run. But I did take some screen shots of the maps and I created another log of the car running after the TPS Cal. It does rev up a lot better now but it still doesn't run smooth at a constant RPM and it doesn't start when it's warm.

Let me know what you think. Thanks a million for all your help!

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Also you have to datalogs when the car is warm.
Helps me diagnose.

But more importantly you took a screenshot of everything but what i need to say HAHAHAHAH.

No worries mate.

take a screen shot of the LOAD map, IDLE MAP and options screen.

I can see already its way too rich.
Thats why idle is lumpy
Send through and ill tell you what to replace it with. Get it purring like a kitten.

Danified

Here are all the ECU option screens I can find and the load map, but I couldn't find the idle map. Is it maybe the same as the ignition map or one of the ones I posted last time?

Also here is another data log with the car warm. I don't think it gets much warmer then 80C unless I am driving it around town.

Thanks,

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

What injectors does the car have?

By the way you have to keep flicking through.
The idle map has to be their.
Its usually one key up from the load up, or one key down from the load map.

I think i can see the problem with your load map, but i need to confirm what injectors you have.

Danified

I think the primarys are the stock 550cc but the secondary are Bosch 1600cc.

Danified

Here is the idle map and all the other ones. Some of them don't even look like they have been configured and maybe they just don't matter much but here they are.

Danified

Here is the rest of them...

Is there a way to download a tune and then modify it without having to be pluged into the microtech?

Thanks,

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Why are you not sure about your injectors? You need to be sure otherwise i cant get the tune right.

Ok put this as your idle map.

IDLE
30HG 1.38
25HG 1.38
20HG 1.38
15HG 1.71
10HG1.81
05HG 2.43
00HG 2.76


And your LOAD MAP

30HG 1.43
25HG 1.43
20HG 1.43
15HG 1.78
10HG 2.05
05HG 2.76
00HG 2.86

The above is to suit 550cc and 1700cc injectors.
This should get the car driving ok.


Change your Opt_map stg 2 HG
OPT_revstg 1320rpm
OPt_stg% 50%

This will only work if your injectors are as you say they are.

Also put your mixtrm back to 00.

Danified

I don't know what injectors it has because I didn't rebuild or setup this motor. I am trying to finish up someone else's project here.

I made the changes to the load map and idle map like you said. I set the mixtrm back to 00 but I couldn't find "Opt_map stg, OPT_revstg, or OPt_stg%. It idles better but it's also idling 250 RPM higher. It sounds much smoother at a constant RPM but it makes a lot more popping when I rev it up. It almost looks as if we made it run even richer under load.

Attached is the log. Let me know what you think.

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Like i said. That load map is probably not working cause you have given me bad information on the injectors.

Take some photos of the injectors and ill tell you what they are.

THe idle has gone up cause its not so rich on idle anymore.

ALso

Change in the LOAD MAP

LOAD 00HG 4.00MS.

See what it does.

Also take a pic of those injectors so i can check what they are.
Also you can lower the idle back down.(And readjust the tps like i described above after changing the idle). Is it starting any better?

I want to make another change to the idle map but ill wait for some more feed back.

Danified

Hey. Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. We got a cold snap here and I didn't feel like working on the car in the snow in -10 weather. But now I am back at it.

I made my own adjustments to the Idle map and water map to get the AFR closer to 13:1. Then I turned the idle back down and recalibrated the TPS. It's idling really smooth and revs fairly smooth but still hesitates a little when I first push on the acclerator fast. If I push it slow its fine and it's doesn't hesitate if I stab it above 1500 rpm.

It also still doesn't start above 60 degrees. So here are some logs so you can see what it's doing when it's not starting and also a log of how it's running now.

I've been doing a lot of reading an I am trying to learn what all these numbers mean and how they will affect the way the car runs. I think I getting it, but I have a long way to go so if you can help me understand how all these adjustments should affect the car and what the ultimate goal or AFR is that we are trying to acheive, then I think I can help to fine tune them.

Thanks!

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Ok mate.

Look ill try to help you.
but you have to respect the basics of tuning before mucking around with the tune. Otherwise just going to go back wards.

Did you put in the maps i gave you?

Your water temp map is all screwed up.

I want a screen shot of your crank map.

I will give you a water temp map and crank map, but you ahve to put idle and load map in as well otherwise were not going to get anywere.

Danified

I attached the crank map as you asked.

I did input all the changes you requested besides the "OPt_stg% 50%". Its currently at 99% and I can't get it below %60 without the car stalling.

I changed idle map slightly because the idle AFR was still in the 11s and 12s and now it's closer to 13 and running smoother.

The water map was way more screwed up before. It went up and down before I touched it.

Can you see what's going wrong with the warm start?

Thanks,

Dan

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

The whole map is no good.
You need to start from scratch.

The crank map looks like the only part of the map that is good.

Every other map looks horribly wrong.

Its up to you.
If you want i can put a map together for you but it wont work unless you put the whole thing in.
Also dont aim for 13afr idle that is too lean for a microtech.