check to see if the cam from the thermowax is dragging on the main throttle shaft.

 

Sorry I haven't updated in a while, I've been really busy, will update soon.

 

This is a clip of how it revs with the enriched lower map. I have to see how it acts under load. Might be too rich

 

Should be making my first drive with it soon. Will post results.

 

Just made my first drive, she runs very rich , there was a flat spot at 3500 rpm so I have to fix that , afrs very rich in the 12s in cruise , 4th gear they go into the 13s, car starts up fine but stalls out for some weird reason during warmup.

Have my own garage now so working on the car will be much easier.

 

I put the original map with the low end not being richened up and it cruises much better (14s) , but i do notice the car likes to smoke alot randomly and after shutoff, i am wondering if my turbo can't handle my higher oil pressure (90 psi regulator), or that all my idling in the past caused excessive carbon buildup in the exhaust, after i shut the car off you can see it smoking for an extended period of time.

Next time I get a large sum of money i may go ahead and get my extra turbo rebuilt and have an upgraded 360 thrust bearing installed to handle the higher oil pressure.

 

So no feedback ?

 

The smoke has nothing to do with carbon.

It's probably too rich.

To offer any more advice more data is going to be needed. Like a datalog (as sucky as the Microtech ones are) and AFR values.

At this point I think that most of your issues are tune issues.

 

The smoke happens randomly and it's pretty extreme. The car will start and there will be no smoke then as its warming up it will smoke like hell.

 

And this is with a 12.0 or higher afr. Idle and warmup is a bit finicky.

 

Post your whole map and pump numbers. Don't worry about smoke. It's most likely running rich. Mine smokes when it's cold but when engine comes upto temp, it goes away completely.

 

I think my tune is too rich, I thought I had a flat spot at 3500 rpm around when the injectors stage and it seems like it's more of a misfire from actually having too much fuel....but I'm not still completely sure.

I enriched the map a bit and under medium throttle it's in the 12s and under wot it goes to 10 and starts to misfire...it's definitely too rich

The only time it's not too bad is under very light throttle , I'll post my matrix map. Pump settings are stock 20% 2 pulses 2000 rpm

 

I think you tried to compensate for lack of pump addition with the matrix map. Increase the pump % and try to lean out the matrix boxes once it's at the operating temp. My primary pump is around 50-60% and secondary pump is around 40-50%. Don't shoot for my numbers. I do think your pump numbers need to come up. I can try to tune this out for you remotely if you want.

 

I leaned out the map and it made things way worse , but at higher rpm it seems like it's still too rich.

There's lots of weird points in the map...also my car won't idle below 1500 rpm, seems like something in the throttle body is sticking open, sometimes when I Rev in neutral it will goto 4000 and get stuck.

Seems like I have a lot of problems to fix.

Just seems very rich , like it runs like a dog when you get on it, the only time it runs good is on light throttle...but there's still lots of weird spots. Especially around 3500 rpm

 

Is there someone close by with some tuning experience that can help you?

This is a little hard to do via remote control because it's not like we can share maps and datalogs with the Microtech. It just sounds to me like someone experienced needs to lay down a base tune.

 

No one around here knows anything about them, only person is 300 miles away and wants like 500 bucks to tune the car on a road tune and like 800 on a dyno. Prices are outrageous , I've got to get my front bumper on the car then I can do more road tuning.

 

Drove it under boost, think I have a boost leak but im not sure, car hits 8 psi with the wastegate pressure , afrs are super rich (10s under full boost).

Having a big issue with the tb getting stuck , after a hard run to the red line the rpms stay stuck at 3500 rpm and it won't stop.

Not sure what the issue is...but it definitely needs to be fixed before I drive it again.

 

$500/$800 is about typically what a tuner would charge.

Pull the throttle body off and make sure the cold start cam is not binding (or the removed parts of it aren't). Make sure the secondary throttle plates are not binding. Soak the whole thing down with penetrating lube and work it well in until everything is smooth. Then clean off all the oil from the external parts as they are design to run dry and oil will just attract dirt.

 

drove the car some more, i think i have a boost leak, the turbo sounds like its spooling like crazy but im only getting 8psi max boost, afrs stay pretty rich, especially in higher gears.

I need to figure out how to do a boost leak test to see where its leaking.

 

Car I think has a boost leak. Need to figure that out.

Car won't hold 8 psi and the Bov sounds like its fluttering.

 

Engine just got pulled because I saw scoring on the housings when I removed the turbo.

Housing was somehow getting coolant in it , the builder (rotary resurrection) says it was overheated, but it never was, e&j autoworks opened the block and said it had a pinched apex inner coolant seal..which leaked in dirt with the coolant and rolled around my housing and caused the scoring.

Turbo upgrade has been purchased, borg warner s366 and a manifold.

Need downpipe and waste gate now as well as to do.my fittings

 

Well, that sucks.

 

Update.

Engine is getting studded with a few oversized studs (3) , intake will be ported as well as exhaust, new apex seals, springs and all soft seals.

 

LOL your still going with a pinched seal story? DIRT does not get into housings because of a pinched seal.

 

If you have nothing helpful to contribute then you have no reason to post.

Please stay within the confines of the posts purpose