So you guys know, you either need to do the TB mod prior to any tuning or disable the CSA.

Reason? You'll never be able to attain a constant set TPS level. I had mine set dead on, only to find out that when it got 10 degrees warmer outside my car was running 2C hotter. What happened? The TPS was now off. So unless you want to keep setting your TPS every 3 or four minutes as traffic and coolant temps change, go for it.

 

I'll also pipe up and say that you can use the AWSV as your fast start up if you can't get your car to idle cold - just wire it up to a switch in-cockpit. Unlike the stock ECU, the LT8 (being speed-density) will be able to compensate for the extra air without problem.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

What if ive got the pot type TPS?

 

All FCs use a pot-type TPS.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

So, can the TB Mod or Cold Start Assist removal be compensated by simply removing the Secondary Throttle Plates, as Is the case with me?

 

What is the AWSV? AWSomethingValve? I am getting ready to do the tb mod (although the fc3s pro site is down so I need to find instructions somewhere else...anyone?).

 

Not pot type damnit.

Ive got the kind on the end of the throttle plate shaft.

 

THey are both just 0 - 5v potentiometers, one is just a plunger style and one is not.

 

Accelerated warmup supply valve?

 

So the removal of the Secondary Plates equivalent to the TB Mod, thus not offsetting the MT and It's controls?

 

who needs cold start assist anyway? Don't the things just break down and ruin our days anyway?

 

I had a pot in my glove box (mounted in a box) that went to the TPS. I just found out what is was wired to after removing my old hernesses & shuff. The guy I got the car from already had it install. All I know about it is that It had two marks on it. If for any reason my idle got rough, I could turn the **** (within the two marks) and it would clean right up. Just like that.

I have the T-body mod & ported. Do I still have to redo the TB mod to help with the TPS?

F@#K it, I'm going to do it anyway. I have to start over though. My old one was made to be used w/ the AFM.

 

I just reread. You said TB mod not the one I was thinking about. Never mind. I have the TB mod. duhhh =)

 

The stock ECU has no trouble with the thermowax's operation so I'd be very surprised and disappointed if an aftermarket ECU can't too. All the TPS does is open the throttle slightly. You can do that with your right foot, so I can't see any difference that would cause problems.

You cannot be serious. There's no way I'm going to spend all that money on a (supposedly) modern ECU only to have to use a dash switch to get a decent cold idle. If I wanted that I could get a carb with a manual choke... The stock ECU already does compensate. The extra air is simply measured by the AFM.

 

my car idles fine when it is cold with out the valve fitted any more,

i have setup cars that use the cold start valves and wax type with no problems at all with the TPS

 

P\/\/n3d!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


AHAHA. Anyways. Do the TB mod, with proper tuning on your microtech you will be fine. You can do this by advancing your timing on the T_RPM map at the 0 RPM point. I set mine to 5 degrees advanced, and leaned out the fuel from 31 degrees celsius to about 42 degrees, and from 42 degrees to 48 degrees I richened it up just a tad.

 

In 2D mode, the ECU switches from idle to load map based on TPS signal. In most cars, the thermowax is sticky, and will often hold the throttle slightly open to varying degrees, making TPS calibration difficult. While not a driveability problem, it can affect idle efficiency.

I am completely serious. I'd like to see you get a large-streetport 13B with a lightweight flywheel idling well from a 40degF cold start at hot-idle RPMs. A tight stock-port 13B will idle perfectly well at 650 RPM stone cold, but not every motor will. For those who don't want to hassle with keeping their foot on the throttle right after a cold start, wiring up a small switch to the AWSV is a reasonable solution.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

the other solution,seems like,would be to simply disable the awsv when you initially set the tps,right?then it would function like it does on the stock ecu.then your just at the mercy of the awsv system working properly.mine is long gone,but fot ppl that are concerned about it,this would work,yes?
david

 

No, the problem is with the thermowax pellet failing to expand fully when warmed up. It causes the TPS signal to be inconsistent, and can make calibration a pain. The AWSV is just used to bump up the idle a few hundred RPM as a replacement for the cold-start assist system's functionality.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

Hey guys,

Just got my Microtech installed and love this thing to death! I also did the TB mod a while back and am considering one of two things to make it "cold idle" somewhat better....once its warm no probs...even with AC on and steering at full lock.

A. Put all the coldstart crap back on

B. Drill a few 1/16ths holes in the butterflys as in theory what's happening is the car isn't getting any air.

I'm sure some tuning time fluffing around could solve this too but I'm some ways away from my tuner and my handset is on order still.

Any thoughts gents?

Cheers,

Treehunter

 

It probably has more to do with your water temp correction maps than anything else. If they've not been touched yet, try pulling some fuel out as it warms up and it'll probably improve.

Brandon
BR7 Racing

 

so to make a long story short i do the tc mod when im installing the lt8 and keep my foot onthe gas when its cold untill it is tuned right to handle oit?