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Microtech microtech timing question

Old 09-27-03, 07:59 PM
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microtech timing question

I;ve got a quick question for you guys concerning the Microtech's timing setup...

According to the manual, you are to turn on idle lock, and adjust the cas to the 5 degree mark on the pulley..

Here's my question.. with Idle lock turned on, the microtech shows 0 degrees.. however you have just set your timing to 5 degrees ATDC... why does the microtech do this? doesn't this now mean that you are going to be running 5 degrees retard throughout your timing maps?

Another question concerning timing.. I was helping a friend with his microtech install.. when I stabbed the CAS and made sure the dimples were lined up and CAS installed correctly as to factory instructions, the only way that you could get close to the 5degree ATDC mark was to adjust the CAS to it's fullest extent .. I had to install the CAS 1 tooth off in order to get it to line up with the timing mark and have it within the middle of the adjustment range... He asked a question regarding this, and the answer he recieved was to just use any method that needed to be used in order to line up the pully mark... what kind of answer is this?? when it comes to setting initial timing up, cars do not differ from each other.. the CAS's are all the same from one person's car to another, and TDC is always in the same location as well .. so why would each people have to go though a diffrent hoop just to try and set up initial timing correctly??
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Old 09-27-03, 11:24 PM
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For the first part, don't worry about it - when you set the timing lock, the ECU is set to a static value buried in the map. As long as the mark lines up you're okay. Remember, Microtech = easy.

As for the second, that simply means that the CAS was initially stabbed improperly. It's an easy and very common mistake to make, as it likes to rotate by one tooth, just as you've observed. Don't stress about it.

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Old 09-28-03, 08:13 AM
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Hmmm

That seems kind of strange. So if I lock my timing (zero degree's) and set it to the first mark 5 degree's ATDC, from now on is the timing not 5 degree's advanced from what the Microtech reads?

For example when it reads 10 degree's advanced at idle is it not really 15 degree's advanced?

Or is what you saying that when the timing is locked it is locked at a value that is not zero, but for ease of use the Microtech displays zero, therefore making the reading accurate when the timing is unlocked?
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Old 09-28-03, 12:30 PM
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Though I've never paid attention to the readout when timing's locked (only screen 30, ref 4), it wouldn't suprise me that it would read 0. For completeness' sake, what's the value under "Static" on screen 30? That's the actual timing when you set the timing lock, plus any mechanical retard/advance.

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Old 09-28-03, 12:58 PM
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It's my understanding that when you lock the timing the Microtech places the static timing at zero and then locks it. In which case Chris Ng seems to have a valid point. When the Microtech reads 0 degree's the actual timing is 5 degree's advanced. I will try and verify this with a timing light this afternoon.
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Old 03-19-04, 08:20 AM
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Well, I am going to dig this old post up since my car is exactly the same. Before I ever installed the LT8, my car ran great, idled great, right at 750-800rpm. Then I installed the LT8, I did not adjust or remove the CAS, simply hooked up the wiring and got the car started....but now the idle is like 1500rpm or so. And to get the L1 to read 5ATDC, I had to turn the CAS all the way counter-clockwise. Which I don't I should have had to do. Now, I tried removing the CAS and re-adjusting it to make sure it was on the middle dimple, and I stabbed it back in, and it was dead on, still idled incredibly high, still had to be turned all the way to read 5ATDC. But, I tried it one tooth off, and my idle came down to about 800rpm again, ran smooth, but now I could not turn the CAS far enough to get the yellow mark to line up.....should I try one tooth off the other way? It would make sense to me, but I don't think that it is proper and I don't think you should have to do that. I have it set back on the middle dimple and the correct tooth again, and again, my rpm is now up above 1500 again. And my L1 is set right right on the yellow mark with the CAS turned all the way counter-clockwise again....but with a timing light on T1, the red 20ATDC mark is nowhere to be found. I am lost and confused on this....not sure what to do.
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Old 03-20-04, 01:10 AM
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B]if u do a search jon (rxeng) has posted some very good info on setting this up.[/B]

but simply u set the lock timing screen in the computer to on, and then adjust ur CAS so the base timing is set to the first mark.

with the base timing set on the 5degree ATC, the TRUE timing is -5 degrees from the values in the computer.

theres two ways to have the microtech read TRUE values.

one is to put 5 into the static timing screen (with timing set to 5ATC) or set the base timing to 0 not 5ATC.

anyway do a search and have a look at RXENG posts [
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Old 03-20-04, 01:45 AM
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Old 03-20-04, 01:54 AM
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Yeah....I know how to set it....what I am wondering is how come after I set it, I can not check my trailing and be anywhere near the 20ATDC mark? Also, how come I have to crank the CAS all the way counter clockwise to get the 5ATDC to line up? I have 5 in static timing as of now to zero it out.
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Old 03-20-04, 02:31 AM
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are u locking the timing in the computer when u check it with a timing light?

im sure ur problem has been on here before, double check the wiring to the CAS and ensure the wires are the same before and after the CAS electrical connector



also i wouldnt change the static from 0, unless u are very careful with the timing values in the ignition maps.
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