jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Thanks, to everyone, that has chimed in. I have not been able to work on the car at all. I took a new job and have been in Oklahoma since 7/15, while my family and car is back in AL. I will return in a few weeks and see what me and my son can do with the car.

Thanks, again, everyone.

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Finally back home after being away for nearly 3 months.

One thing I wanted to ask for you gurus to confirm is with my TPS. While I was out of the State, I realized that I simply just bolted the TPS in place and never set it. I'm thinking this is part of the issue with the car not starting and also part of the flooding issues. Does this make sense to any of you or am I grabbing at straws here?

Also, here's what I found for settings on the FD TPS (I have a FD TB, FD UIM, S5 LIM):

The TPS
AT THE PLUG
Top (green with red stripe) wire
Closed - 1.21 v (spec .75 - 1.25)
WOT - 4.99 v (spec 4.8 - 5.0)
Bottom (black with green stripe) wire
Closed - 0.5 v (spec 0.1 - 0.7)
WOT - 4.2 v (spec 4.2 - 4.6)

All that look correct?


JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Looks like the TPS is at least part of the problem. I didn't have much time to spend on the RX7 today but will continue throughout the week.

TPS readings:

Green wire with red stripe: nothing, all zeros.
Black wire with green stripe: 0.1 and 4.1

I will try my connections again on the red striped wire, but hopefully, I am on the right path to figuring this out and getting the car to run on its own power again.

JTB

rx3sum

Back into it jtb.
I know nothing about fd tps but with the microtech the tps is like an on/off switch.The microtech only needs to know if its on idle or off idle.
If you are getting the yellow light with ign on, no cranking and tps reading with* next to it with foot off the accelerator you will be ok if the cas is set correctly.
Reading should change/light go out with a small pedal movement.
As long as its switching between idle and load you should be ok.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the 3sum.

I will be back at it tomorrow and I with setting the TPS correctly and checking a few other things that you and others mentioned, I hope to hear her fire up by tomorrow evening.

I'm usually great with math (equations, calculations, calibration, etc...), but this stand alone stuff just isn't clicking with me yet. At this point, though, it has become a challenge for me to learn and not give up. All you younger guys can get this stuff, I know that I can.

I'll post my findings from tomorrow. Thanks again!!!

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Making progress, and working on the TPS. With the key on, no yellow light. It flashes as the car is trying to start, but no solid yellow with just the key on. So, now I know the TPS isn't correct. I do have a red light and will hook the laptop up and see what is going on there here shortly.

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Well, finding all sorts of interesting stuff......I'm embarrassed to say that I had the TPS on backwards . As in the plug facing the passenger side, not the driver's side. That has been corrected now.

Now what I have found is that I have a four wire TPS plug and according to the Microtech diagram, the green with red stripe wire is not connected. I am getting readings of 0.2 on the green/black and 4.95 on the brown with white stripe wire. Both of these are closed position. Regardless, I still do not have a yellow light on the LT8s with the key turned on.

I'm going to review the wiring for the TPS in the Microtech manual and see what I can find. Any ideas from any of you at this point?

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

One more thing for you guys to review, this is the post that I found to connect the LT8 to the factory 4-wire FD TPS:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...arness-902465/

All that look correct?

JTB

rx3sum

Id fix the errors on the microtech first .Then try and calibrate the tps with the handset or manually(if fd has manual adjust).
The yellow light will only come on if it has no tps related errors and is calibrated correctly.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

The only error that I am showing now is "WAT". Everything else shows "OK". I am using a GM style temp sensor that came with my Autometer gauge. It is a single wire sensor and works the gauge just fine. Any reason why it would be confusing the LT8s?

JTB

bumpstart

swap TPS earth and power,, simple

bumpstart

WAT is coolant sensor .. it must be the OEM sender or another delco curve GM sender,, two wires

dont pass go

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Ok, I'll get a sensor coming this way. Any recommendations (part #)?

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

NM, I will just get a factory water thermo sender.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Found a factory water thermo sensor in my stuff this morning, along with the factory pigtail. The wiring pigtail has two wires, obviously. One is green with a white stripe and the other is a brown with black stripe. Any help with the actual wiring?

I see in the FSM that the sensor should read 0.3-1.0v idle/hot and around 2.4v cold. Is the brown with black stripe wire simply a ground and I need to wire in a + for the green with white stripe wire? If so, will a 12V wire work or do I need to build in a resistor to drop that down? I have been searching for nearly 2 hours this morning on the wiring for this sensor and can't find any other specs than what I posted. Any help would be great.

JTB

rx3sum

Microtech manual says they can be wired either way so just hook them up and check for errors.Try not to get to concerned about how much voltage everything has unless you have a problem with it.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Will do, rx3sum.

Gotta take a break for a few days to go out of town. I will get back on it Monday. I also have to source a fitting or two so that I can keep my aftermarket temp gauge setup and get the factory one into the coolant stream also.

I'll update early next week.

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Gotta a few updates....

The good: I was able to install the factory water thermo sensor, wire it up, and the LT8s read it nicely. The great thing here is that I no longer have any errors.

The not so good: This thing still does not start. I played with the mixtrim all the way from +10 to -80. Until I got to around -20, she would flood like crazy. This is where I have become aggravated, frustrated, pissed off, confused, etc... I have no idea what to do right now.


I did notice a few things that may be throwing things off. On screen 30/options map, I noticed my dwell was set on duty cycle. I did try it on time base, but saw nowhere to input the 3.00 that silverrotor's map shows. Also on that same screen, I can't recall the heading, but it is something like input or something....it was set to MAP sensor, not TPS. I do not have a MAP sensor now. I tried switching it to TPS and still no starting of the car.

The other thing I noticed was that my AIT is showing around 92 degrees Celsius. When I was working on the car, it was around 76 degrees Fahrenheit, not 198 like the reading is showing. Any input on this would be great.


Any ideas? I am truly puzzled right now. When I turn the ignition switch on, all I have is a green light. Try to start the car, I still have the green, but add the pulsing yellow.

JTB

Here's a screen shot of when the laptop was connected to the LT8s (screen 34):

rx3sum

You probably know a lot of this but i will explain it basically so i dont assume anything.
Try not to play with too many things at once as you may make it worse and start by fixing the things that are definitely wrong.
1.TPS grab a helper,disconnect laptop cable from lt,1 person watches for yellow light on lt whilst the other adjusts the adjustment screw next to the tps until yellow light comes on.slowly turn the screw in and out until you find the centre of tps light on. TPS is now calibrated.
2.Not sure where you are with your fuel map at the moment but if using a 550 primary one set mixtrim -40.
3.crank engine

If it still doesnt start try new plugs and if still no luck load one of bumpstarts maps again with mixtrim to suit injectors.

Read the manual over again i must have read it 20 times before it all sank in.

Dont worry about air temp at the moment as its actually optional.disconnect it microtech will show it as an error but you can ignore it.then set all air temp values to 0.

I dont know much about the dwell settings but check the manual and others maps on here.

If you get it started dont drive it til map is confirmed as safe.

Until the TPS is calibrated correctly do not attempt to start it.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Thanks a bunch, rx3sum! I will unplug the AIT sensor and begin to work on the TPS tomorrow and get it calibrated before proceeding.

It just seems like we are so close to firing this thing up again. I just put some fresh new fuel in it today to eliminate that from being a possibility.

If it does fire up, I can't drive it on the highway, as I have not registered the car yet (no tag or insurance). That will be taken care of once the car becomes moveable on its own power.

Thanks, again, 3sum. I wish that I was able to help you as you have helped my son and I. That goes for the others that have chimed in here as well! THANKS to all of you.

JTB

rx3sum

Dont forget to 0 the air temp map.
Im keen to help as much as I can especially as my eldest boy just got his drivers license and the rotor bug is smoldering
It seems like it is close to starting just remember number 1 rule is dont drive it anywhere as you could kill the engine with boost/mixture
Once it starts you will need to find a map suited or get it to a tuner.
Your setup sounds nice and will have plenty of power when its sorted.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Well, pretty good day overall. We started with just removing the UIM/TB section and dug in to confirming all the wiring. After all that, we confirmed that everything was correct. Woohoo! Then we were able to calibrate the TPS. Woohoo again!

Reinstalled everything, went through the LT8s and confirmed no errors. Everything looked great in the ECU, actually loaded another map that I found that was similar to my setup. Didn't work very well. Loaded Silverrotors map again, set mixtrim to -40 and the car almost ran. As long as the starter was turning over, she would basically idle. One of those things like me and Aaron have already discussed....if I could just pull the thing down the road and dump the clutch in second or so, I really feel like she would go ahead and fire on up.

In summary, this is as close as it has gotten. We ran out of time and if it would have fired on up, the neighbors wouldn't have been to happy. We will work on it tomorrow and tweak a few #s. Playing with the mixtrim a little seemed to make it happier or no, depending on the directions we went with the #s.

Maybe tomorrow I can post a vid of her running.

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Resurrecting this thread....

Since the last post, lots has changed. I took a new job, moved across the country to South Dakota, lost my dad, and endured the harshest winter I have ever been through.

To update on the car, we have had it running twice now by pulling it down the road. Where we live now in SD is out in the country and the nearest neighbor to our 26 acres is about 2 miles down the road. No more worries about stirring up the neighborhood. Other than that, we haven't done anything to the car because it has been brutally cold. Even in the shop with big heaters going, when it is -20 to -30 it is just freakin' cold.

The last time the car ran, it felt very rich and idled about 2000. As soon as I would give it throttle, it would fall on its face, but go right back to idling at 2000. I'm thinking either I do not have the TPS set properly or I need a new one. Regardless, within the upcoming weeks, we are expecting warmer weather and my son and I hope to get back to work on her.

JTB

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Finally back at it. I've had a battery reverse polarity on me (fixed that with a new battery) and installed another known working TPS/entire throttle body assembly. The car almost starts but I stopped trying to crank it when I noticed with the new TPS, the constant yellow is not on. I get the flashing yellow when it is turning over, but no constant.

On screen 30, the TPS calibration shows 0, but the TPS load shows 31%. Do I need to simply manually adjust the TPS at the throttle body to get it to read 0?

JTB

rx3sum

Still at it jtb
The tps light is doing as it should.should be solid yellow with ign on no cranking.Whilst cranking it should flicker on and off.So sounds ok.The figures sound ok to as long as you have the 0 and the * it doesnt matter what the other number is.
Im about to start installing 4 1000cc injectors same as you today so "should" be able to get mine running and will post up my map for you if i do.
I have come up with a theoretical map so hopefully its pretty close and with a few minor tweaks should be running okish.
In reality easier to send it to a pro for a dyno tune but i love playing with it and the journey.
All your micro options should be set to load rather than tps except maybe your pump1 and pump 2 which i find runs better set to tps.
Im a little worried posting numbers here as the pros only like to come in to bash when they see something wrong rather than helping in the first place.
Try these numbers for your idle map 20hg .92 15hg 1.15 10hg 1.84 with all other parts except idle and load values as per the base map.
these may be a little lean so if no start try mixtrim up to about +10.
Hopefully that will get it started but the rest of the tune will need sorting before driving the car or puttting any load on it.