TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

About 6 months ago I took my fresh rebuild to a dyno to get tuned. A guy thats considered good starts the process. In the beginning, It let out a little black smoke, obviously fuel. The more runs he did it got richer. More and more fuel each time. It starts to billow smoke each time.

The fuel pressure stayed at 50psi the whole time. But every run it started to break up... He kept upping the boost until he hit 20psi.

In the end the guy said "Im going to lean it out..." and that was the last time it ran.

Any idea what it was... Its kinda vague I know but it could be something obvious.

70mm inducer Garret BB turbo
50mm wastegate
Microtech LT10
Streetport
Apexi GT frontmount
Full Exhaust
TII coils
Fuel pres regulator

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Honestly sounds like your tuner has no clue.

Secondly you havent said what injectors you have?

Lower your fuel pressure to 30psi with the car off.

If its staying rich and you can adjust it out on the computer your injectors are locking open or leaking. so its either fuel pressure too high or **** injectors(lower your fuel pressure and if it still plays up then you need some new injectors). And a new tuner.

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

**** I forgot probably the most crucial component in my question...

850 pri / 1600 sec

And the engine builder had to put the microtech on 6cyl in order for it to run. Otherwise it bogs down horribly.

If on 4cyl it duuuuumps fuel.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

OK next question. Is it a plug in computer?
What coil packs are you running?

Did you buy the computer and who did you buy it off, its now sounding like the computer is programmed for something else or the leads are on wrong.
Can you get a vid of what its doing.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Also. Has your tuner taken fuel out of the map to make it run clean?

850/1600cc is alof of fuel.

also can you get me all the details of your map. so go through the handset or the laptop and get me the numbers for all the load points,idle points, pump settings, options, timing etc.

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I got the car with it all installed. Unfortunately a shop that deals more with Hondas blew it up before I bought it, so they might have installed the LT10... The previous owner said the first time it hit 4k rpm it popped. Then he sold it to me.

I assumed the tuner I used was trying to back the fuel down as I kept asking him. But the more runs he did the richer it got until it looked like a Big rig towing an 80,000lbs trailer. I have video of it, I have to get it posted tonight if I can. Did the video to show in case something happened. Thankfully...

Does it sound like I need to check the leads connected to the ECU itself or to the TII coils? Im pretty good at troubleshooting wiring, I just figured it was a setup or tuning issue. I have to see whether they are wired for split timing while I am at it.

I have two weeks to get this done before tuning... I do not have the handset or laptop port, but my engine builder can find one. We had one to set up the initial break in stuff.

This all happened in June.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Get a handset. So that i can see your map. Do that asap.

So your car is an FD with T2 coils?

We need to check your wiring, but first will check the basics, make sure the leads from the coil packs to the engine are on the right way etc.

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

I dont think it has even close to a full tune. It was interrupted by the mishap. Ive been breaking it in and now im ready for the real tune to be done.

My wideband says 10.0-11.0 while idleing... maybe 13.5 while driving. I have not gotten on the gas at all. Its killing me going so slow...

That dyno day in june was the first time I heard my BOV's.

I will try this week to get the info for you.

THANKS, Ted

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Your car should be idling at 11.4:12:1.

should be 14-14.7:1 to while cruising and as you start to come on boost should come down to 12.5:1

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

Had the dyno day a week ago:

The microtech is throwing codes. Gaby said the crank angle sensors code showed up. He checked my timing, then plug wires also.

Funny thing is the guy that blew up my car before started checking all the same stuff. He just never told me it was throwing error codes. He just left with his laptop. So 8 months later it cost 180 dollars to be told my car cant be tuned.

I rewired the grounds to the sensors on the spot. They have continuity. I have to check that they are wired correctly to the ecu itself next.

We spun the engine and watched the gaps between the sensor and input wheel. They looked fine.

Here is that video in case you didnt see it before. The battery was a temporary fix for my noncharging gel battery.

http://www.stage6.com/user/BlackGuyA...ed-on-the-dyno

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Hold on. Did you ground the shield?

The CAS sensors are grounded from the ECU.
Do not ground the shield. Cut the excess, any area of the CAS wire that is not covered by shield, wrap it with a thick layer of aluminium Foil. And tape it up. That should stop your CAS throwing errors.

TEDDER1

iTrader: (1)

ahhhhhhh, theyre (both sensors)grounded to the body the way I found it............... I did reroute them as far away from ignition wires as possible though. It still has the shield on it all the way to the firewall.

Will check tonight. You rock man. I tried to upload the wiring diagram but saw a subaru one. Says crank angle and cam sensor, so I didnt know to trust it or not.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

To wire your crank sensors

Use this diagram


http://www.microtechefi.com/pdf/LTX8...ries6FDign.pdf