bumpstart

check screen 31 config is back on 4cyl and somewhere in the config for output trigger says s4 or maz mode

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Okay got the wires and dmm figured out. Now should I be testing these with the microtech on and then turn the motor over with a socket wrench on the main hub bolt I assume?

bumpstart

the trigger wires you test with engine jogging or with test mode .. the trailing toggle wire you test with ignition on and just turn the motor by hand.. every 2nd rotation should make it power up

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Trailing toggle puts out voltage on required rotations point and fuel pump also primes as well at the same point.

Haven't got to test the trigger output in test mode yet.

Really stumped at this point.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Leading and trailing trigger wires produce .8 volts. Trailing produced 12V for 1/2 a sec then went to .8

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

I just don't see how this problem went from nonexistent, to intermittent, to full on preventing the car from starting. Really wanna light the car on fire right now.

bumpstart

sounds OK .. issue may be with wiring to the coils .. be sure the coil is mounted properly as the contact to earth is important .. check tan coloured wiring at coils for consistant 12v

also time for new cheap plug wires , to be sure, to be sure

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Sounds good. Quick question. What if none of the proposed suggestions fix my problem? What am I facing then?

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Still no change since grounding the leading coil back to the fender. Starts and runs on one rotor. Really frustrated with this damn car right now.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Could there be a problem with the microtech unit itself at this point? Looking for any input here as where to go next with this.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Going to try and swap in a new CAS tomorrow and see what happens. Will update as progress permits.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Bump for clarity.

Still haven't put in a new CAS.

Revised all coil wiring, getting a fresh new battery tonight.

Will take a couple videos of spark plugs firing in test mode, and what car sounds like if it happens to start.

-Also as a foot note i had a pretty severe leaking main hub bolt o-ring about 8 months ago that put out a good amount of oil as it would "sling" or get thrown if you will, by the main pulley and my E-fan, would this have some strange cause and effect on my CAS, CAS wiring or Pug wires? Or.......anything else for that matter that could be causing the symptoms I'm having? Just a thought.....

A big thanks to all that have already replied to this thread and those willing to offer insight and help at this point.

flaco

iTrader: (7)

clogged injector maybe ??