the bleed away in pressure is screaming leaky fuel injector or faulty check valve in the efi pump ( 044 do this badly )
you can always check by pinching the return hose... if it still bleeds away,, it aint the reg

if its going via reg or pump it doesnt really matter anyhows,, cause you just jog the key twice to reprime it

16 at 1000 is good for an exendy,, but fair for a stocky ,, which should be closer to 18/19 inch Hg... again its got to do with that original timing calibration.. 16 is far to much for anything this side of a full BP// and so i think its actually a real 11.. Ok for large extend but maybe a bit much for a stocky,,, expect 18/19 on a stocky is closer to 0 or 5 real degrees

 

Sorry should have informed, its a large street port. I thought it could be a bad check valve on the supra tt pump as it did start bleeding off with that pump first so i replaced it. Since I have the stock rails in now I have no way of check fuel system pressure or bleed off.....

 

Thank you to both flaco and you bumpstart for all the help its really appreciated.

 

i got ev1 plugs new in stock just incase you need some

 

@flaco

Thanks man, trouble is I just got 4 new 1000cc ID inj for my Cosmo motor, whixh is built waiting on standby. But I don't think I can use them in my stock rails.

 

test mode is cyl = 0 in screen 31 config .. will make sparks and trigger injectors,, but no pump

 

man no offense. seems you have big problems with the car and not 100% can work with what. i would suggest to take it to someone good or atleast explain to you how to make those 1000cc fit on your rails

 

I assume this is under crank so I can see my plugs firing and listen to the injectors opening and closing?

 

there is something more... ifor those that run stock coils and stock igniters in what is known as s4 mode ( on a microtech .. wasted spark leading and flop signal trailing,, also known as two and toggle )

..and IF the flop input on the trailing coil fails ( igniter or the ecu )
.. then you get a trailing coil that will be firing only on one side... and TWICE as often as it should be
... ie its wastesparking t1 or t2

pull the trailing leads and confirm you are getting both sparks , alternating ( which dont happen at all during cranking on trailing side )



PS
test mode is not under crank.. its a simulated rpm .. but no fuel pump

 

@flaco

No offense taken......I ordered a complete fuel rail/inj kit from full function engineering that was specifically for my Cosmo motor that is on an engine stand as my T2 motor was running just fine. If I had ordered those inj with a set of T2 rails I could do it but unless you can tell me how to adapt a set of custom machined Cosmo rails to an S4 T2 I don't see where I need any help....

 

So if I pull my leads and put the MT in test mode and see both plugs firing in opposite order can I assume that my coil and ingniters are working correctly?

 

yups.. you can also listen and hear if all injectors click

leading will fire together,, trailing will alternate

 

@flaco

Why dont you tell me how someone who knows better than I do would look or say to me when I ask them to make the injector in the bottom of this picture to fit on the stock rail, the way the injector on top fits in the rail.

 

@Bumpstart

Thanks a TON!!!!! I'll give it a go tomorrow and we'll see what I find. Hopefully........ my problem.

 

you want to make the top of the injector fit your rail ? from 14mm to 11mm oring . when you order them with 11mm oring sometimes the supplier will grind out part of the plastic. if you want i can send you a picture tomorrow

 

If you notice in the picture its not the diameter but the length of the injector. Its about and inch or so too short. Don't see how 11 or 14 mm makes a difference.

 

you got the very short style injector

 

Tonight's test mode testing.......confirmed..........that i have spark on one lead.....from the trailing coil. Yay. So awesome. That totally makes sense and helps.

 

there you go.. it is wastesparking one of the trailing plugs ..
and thats a huge no-no.. so best leave trailing disconnected til you find a working replacement

 

Well to clarify the situation at hand, which I should have done anyway. That's the ONLY spark I got. No spark on leading and only one spark on the trailing. Tested 2 sets of leads and 2 sets of plugs. Also swapped the leading coil for a known working and still no go. I guess the one thing I need to know is if the trailing coil is wastesparking will that cause the leading coil to not fire? And if I replace the trailing with a known good coil and the same still happens to my leading what does all that mean?

 

check the harness on all connections

 

^looks like I'll be doing some test light work soon.

Swapped the trailing coil for a known working unit and in the end I had no spark on any leads.

 

sounds like the microtech may be playing up

/// i would suggest using the DMM to see if the wire for trailing toggle has V every other rotation of the crank ( by hand ) .. and maybe the dmm or some noid lights to test the other two trigger signals ( leading and trailing trigger )

also agree that you need to slid the case back and do continuity across the pins on the back and other side of harness connector... the ATX plug is notorious for sliding back the connections

 

DMM? hats the trailing and leading toggle wires in terms of colors? I think I still have my wiring diagram but not sure.

Thanks a lot again guys ur really helping me wth this thing.

 

DMM = digital multimeter
grey/ red is trailing trigger.. grey /black is toggle .. methinks its 5 V but the factory uses 1 v .. but same same