Where to start.

First details of car

S4 T2 motor
LT10S
S4 T2 coils
Aeromotive 340 fuel pump
Less than 10K miles on brand new RC Eng 550/25K mile rx7store.net 1600's w/stock T2 rails
No matrix, running normal mode.

Back story

Okay about a month and a half ago car was driving just fine (had it tuned professionally in oct. 2011 and made great power and no problems on the dyno, other than a damn hot start issue) At random times when going into boost the car would kind of stutter AFR's would peg 16 then it would go into boost and do just fine. I thought maybe this was a case of being low on fuel, yet even with a 3/4 tank the problem still persisted. Problem just got worse over time and eventually started driving like it was running on one rotor in vacuum and/sounding like it had an uzi in the exhaust (like a really loud and fast cat purr under any load and would not idle) so i replaced the existing fuel pump (supra TT) with the Aeromotive unit.

Today's problem

After this was replaced the car wouldn't even start. Fresh battery and plugs (Bur9eqp's) all the way around just to help it start easier as it was running the NGK race plugs 10.5 all the way around. So I put a lil oil in the leading spark plug hole to help it start, which eventually would but it wouldn't free rev and would run like crap. so I gave up for a while because i had to move. Fast forward to today. Wow, go out swap in a fresh set of known working T2 coils and out the race plugs in with a little oil and it fires right up.

Problems soon arose, one after another.

First it was apparent that the OEM FD alt with the FC adaptable pulley was going out as it would idle at a steady 1K RPM with no problem. But once reved past like 3500 the alt would start charging and the car wont idle. So i swap it out for my FC alternator and this fixes that problem. About an hour later we get everything settled up on the car and decide to go cruise it. first 5 mins are fine with no problems cruising in vac. Then........disaster strikes. The same problem that we were having is back again. Running on one rotor/giving it gas only to get the loud purring and random backfiring between shifts. Literally about to blow my car up right now. Last piece of interesting info. On the way limping it back to my house i have the gas pedal at about 50-60% just to get it to go like 30mph and it literally TAKES OFF out of no where. Just nails boost like it was a rolling 2 step, turbo screaming along with me as well.

Map to follow in next post as this one is already really long lol.

All help is appreciated

Thanks

 

Idle
Screen 1

30" ~ 1.38
25" ~ 1.48
20" ~ 1.43
15" ~ 1.86
10" ~ 2.00
05" ~ 2.25
00" ~ 2.55
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Load
Screen 3

30" ... 0.95
25" ... 1.19
20" ... 1.52
15" ... 1.71
10" ... 2.19
05" ... 2.81
00" ... 3.38
2psi ... 2.81
4psi ... 3.29
6psi ... 3.67
8psi ... 4.10
10psi ... 4.48
14psi ... 4.81
16psi ... 5.14
18psi ... 5.43
20psi ... 5.95

RPMwot
Screen 17

0500 ... +00%
1000 ... +00%
1500 ... +00%
2000 ... +00%
2500 ... +00%
3000 ... +00%
3500 ... +00%
4000 ... +00%
4500 ... +02%
5000 ... +03%
5500 ... +02%
6000 ... +02%
6500 ... -03%
7000 ... -03%
8000 ... -04%
9000 ... -05%

RPMcrs
Screen 18

0500 ... +00%
1000 ... -06%
1500 ... -07%
2000 ... -09%
2500 ... -05%
3000 ... -04%
3500 ... -01%
4000 ... +00%
4500 ... +00%
5000 ... +00%
5500 ... +00%
6000 ... +00%
6500 ... +00%
7000 ... +00%
7500 ... +00%
8000 ... +00%
9000 ... +00%

Pump
Screen 19

Pump1 Amt ... +15%
Pump1pulse ... +4%
Pump1Trig ... +10%
Pump1Stop ... 00"Hg
Pump2Start ...2500
Pump2Amt ... +30%
Pump2Time ... +10
Pump2Trig ... +16
Pump2Stop ... 00"Hg
Pump1ADV ... +5
Pump2ADV ... +0
Pump Dwell ... 3.25
Pump Timers ... NO
Pump1 Sync ... NO
Pump Spare ... +00%
Pump Cold ... +05%

Water
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t
Screen 21

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +00%
60 C ... +00%
46 C ... +00%
38 C ... +00%
31 C ... +00%
24 C ... +00%
18 C ... +03%
11 C ... +03%
5 C ... +04%
-1 C ... +05%
-9 C ... +06%
-17 C ... +08%
-25 C ... +00%

Crank
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t* rpm
Screen 23

Idle ... +16
1000 ... +16
1500 ... +19
2000 ... +21
2500 ... +26
3000 ... +26
3500 ... +25
4000 ... +25
4500 ... +25
5000 ... +25
5500 ... +25
6000 ... +25
6500 ... +25
7000 ... +25
8000 ... +25
9000 ... +25

t*map
Screen 24

20 psi ... -17
18 psi ... -16
16 psi ... -15
14 psi ... -14
10 psi ... -13
8 psi ... -10
6 psi ... -07
4 psi ... -05
2 psi ... -02
00"Hg ... +00
05"Hg ... +01
10"Hg ... +02
15"Hg ... +03
20"Hg ... +04
25"Hg ... +05
30"Hg ... +00

t*air
Screen 25

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +00%
60 C ... +00%
46 C ... +00%
38 C ... +00%
31 C ... +00%
24 C ... +00%
18 C ... +00%
11 C ... +00%
5 C ... +00%
-1 C ... +00%
-9 C ... +00%
-17 C ... +00%
-25 C ... +00%

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ... +15
1000 ... +15
1500 ... +15
2000 ... +14
2500 ... +12
3000 ... +10
3500 ... +10
4000 ... +10
4500 ... +10
5000 ... +08
5500 ... +07
6000 ... +07
6500 ... +07
7000 ... +07
8000 ... +07
9000 ... +07

t*Inj
Screen 27

0500 ... 120
1000 ... 150
1500 ... 150
2000 ... 150
2500 ... 150
3000 ... 150
3500 ... 150
4000 ... 150
4500 ... 180
5000 ... 210
5500 ... 210
6000 ... 210
6500 ... 210
7000 ... 210
8000 ... 210
9000 ... 210

t* wat
Screen 28

124 C ... +00
99 C ... +00
82 C ... +00
68 C ... +00
60 C ... +00
46 C ... +00
38 C ... +00
31 C ... +00
24 C ... +00
18 C ... +00
11 C ... +00
5 C ... +00
-1 C ... +00
-9 C ... +00
-17 C ... +00
-25 C ... +00

Option
Screen 29

Opt #1 ... off
Opt #2 ... off
Opt #3 ... Aux FAN_on 67* C/46* C
Opt #4 ... Aux FANadd 0.10
Opt #5 ... Aux FANAIR 0.10
Opt #6 ... Aux AIRmin 10.00
Opt #7 ... Aux AIRmax 10.52
Opt #8 ... Aux AIRwat 0.48
Opt #9 ... Aux AIRafs 0.10
Opt #10 ... Aux RPMset 0880
Opt #11 ... AUX pwmLOW 0.76
Opt #12 ... Aux pwm_HI 7.62
Opt #13 ... Inp RPMlim off
Opt #14 ... Inp AIRadd 0.19
Opt #15 ... Inp Enrich 0.00
Opt #16 ... Inp Timing +05%


Option
Screen 30

Opt MIXtrm +00%
Opt TPScal +17%
Opt TIMtrm +01%
Opt Static +00%
Opt TIMmax +38
Opt RPMwot 02"Hg
Opt RPMcrs 14"Hg
Opt AF_ste +04%
Opt REVlim OFF
Opt REVcut OFF
Opt BstCUT OFF
Opt REVstg 2500
Opt MAPstg 00psi
Opt %stg +99%
Opt Decel 26"Hg
Opt Dwell 3.50

Screen 31

Config +04 Cyl/R
Firing SEQUENTIAL
LOAD = MAP Sensor
DWELL = Time base
Input Trig +POS
Spark Trig Maz+
Timing check OFF
Rpm_ON 2500 Log
Map_ON 02psi Log
Sample +00 Log
Spare +00 Log
SHIFT 7500 Dash
WATER 99 C Dash
Air_T OFF Dash
BOOST OFF Dash

 

sounds like you may have a loose injector clip or a dodgy injector

random 16 peg is a staging glitch.. its never going to be 100% perfect with a 550/1600 combo

 

PS.. blow down the map sensor line ,, be sure it was on tight at either end
.. sometimes on some setups they can pickup fuel or oil in the line and then get sporadic indication ..making the engine think its under load and not vacuum .. overfueling and eventually shutting down spark plugs

 

The 16 AFR staging glitch i get, but it was more pronounced and took longer to overcome in these cases.

This is also a weird thing to ask but is this injector output Ms normal when the car is just on but not running?

 

yeh that 12.14 is default for cranking .. since its a zero rpm its under the carnking threshold rpm.. and sees this value in the cranking map.. and is sticking that in every revolution.. which,, at 00000 rpm.. is nothing,,,

 

Could it perhaps be a faulty TPS telling the microtech the throttle is somewhere in the load range that its actually not?

 

microtechs have no voltage corrections,,, if you have it wired directly of the alt that is struggling then you may be also having issues with mixture going up and down with the voltages

sort the alt out as priority .. take the 12v+ from the battery.. not the alt B+ if you can help it... too many shops take this shortcut... and its a no no for a reason..

 

yes,,if tps reads as shut at mid stroke it will also make the ecu jump down to an idle map value for same vacuums...
into boost there is no idle maps ..not sure what to expect there if it ignores the tps and goes to the load table

 

As in take power for the Microtech straight from the battery? This is how I have it.

 

yeps.. many shops will pin it to the alt B+ thinking its the same thing,, when it looks that way on paper.. its not from an electronic point of view.. ones a big DC cap.. nice and smooth,, the other is an AC device,, spikey and noisy ..

fix the alt.. disconnect the tps to test that theory.. ( it will try and idle on the running maps .. and will need you to ride the clutch out as the throttle pump wont time itself )
but it should drive and cruise as normal if that was the issue

 

So disconnect the Tps connector and try to start/drive the car without it, is that correct?

 

yups..its going to idle funny and need a to ride the clutch to take off.. and wont like a big throttle change .. but it should cruise and transist to boost as normal

 

Okay ill either give that a try or swap a different tps in.

Thanks

 

No luck trying to start it with tps unhooked

 

hmmm..this still may be as simple as an ignition lead thats on its way and a fat tune that soon makes a combo that wets the plugs and shorts

at this point i would be swapping in new leads.. and of course new plugs
.. as poisoned is poisoned,, regardless of type and age... they are never really same again and cleaning is only hit and miss

i also think the fuel pump is maxing the fuel reg... this would explain a tune that suddenly likes to flood a bit .. and is to be expected if you still have the s4 reg and a big pump

 

Okay well where to start. Earlier today I tried 2 different sets of leads. Racing beat and NGK stock leads.

I was running full parallel series rails with aermotive fpr with this pump at 43psi, did the same thing. Acted like it was running on one rotor.....

 

IG map looks like you have been timed in real crank degrees .. so may be a bit lax if it has instead been calibrated to the 5ATDC mark..

its also very radical for idle numbers on a stock engine


this runs in conflict with statement one//// the 16 at idle screams that it may infact be a 11 ( real crank degrees ).. which is what i expect most extendies to like.. stock engines idle around -5

so what i see is a timing number for idle that reflects that someone stabbed the cas and timing mark at -5 with the lock set to zero ( the microtech advised method )
and a full load timing map.. of 25 ( indicated ) at load.. and 3 ( indicated ) at 20 psi


this reflects a map that was taken from a motor that was cas stabbed to REAL degrees .. not the micro method

i would hazzard to guess that you may be quite retarded at load ( with up to 5 degrees of margin ) if set up one way....


or may be quiet advanced to idle and start ( for a stock engine ) if set up other way


it may pay just to confirm what method is used to calibrate this engine.. you may need a timing light,, put lock on.. set on 0 .. and see if strobe is seeing the 5ATDC mark.... or just clockwise from it

 

put the aftermarket reg back on,... set it for 3bar ,, with engine NOT running but fuel pump primed .. be sure it gets the reg vacuum from a source that is true engine vacuum.. not port air

the stock reg should in fact be lower than this... but WILL be overpowered by this pump and be showing more

if it was tuned last on the stock reg and smaller pump.. fuel pressure THEN may have been as low as 33 psi at idle
( and around 38 static )

sometimes its as easy as getting it warmed up and idling.. and pulling the reg adjust down till the idle cleans up.... and you will find its closer to 33 if originally setup on stock FPR

 

have you tested the ecu on test mode ? also have you checked compression ??

 

It was tuned with the SS braided parallel series fuel rails with aermotive fpr set to 43psi.....I can post the values of that tune in terms of load, crank, idle, water etc if needed. I pulled that setup off because I was having a strange issue with my regulator. If you would prime the fuel system after 20 mins or so the pressure would be at zero where it used to take almost 2 hr's to bleed off. So I put the stock rails on hoping the return in the Aeromotive fpr was bad.....

 

Dunno how to test the Ecu in "test mode" or what to do/look for....

 

I've checked compression, but its difficult with a piston tester. It came out with mixed results each time. When I got the car idling smooth today the microtech was reading 16" of vacuum at 1K rpm and was rock solid.....other times it sounds like its barely running on 2 rotors. Its done this on 2 sets of plugs as well both idle issues and driving issues but also driving and idle on both sets has worked only not for long.

 

ok . just like the other guy said, you might have a bad connector on a injector have you checked them ?

 

Might just replace all of them at this point. Checking them is half the battle of replcig them in any case. They're pretty old too.